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No spark
by: steven - Jun 27, 2015 7:50:23 GMT -6
Post by steven on Jun 27, 2015 7:50:23 GMT -6
AlleyoopI'm sorry to keep pestering you Alleyoop, My DC CDI came in today and still no spark. I don't know why I have been in denial that the pick up coil can be bad but I think that is the problem. I didn't do your test on the upper left wire that goes to the pick up coil until tonight. It doesn't read anything while the engine is turning over, when I just touch the start button and let it go it makes the meter jump, but if I leave the button pushed and keep turning the motor over.....nothing. That is with the meter on AC the red lead to the connector and the black lead to ground. If nothing else I am learning about the ignition system of the GY6!!!! Unless you have a high end multi meter, you probably won't get a reading from the pickup coil. If you have an analog meter, with the needle, you probably aren't going to read the pickup coil. It sends pulses, not a steady current. It may very well be bad, but I would not base it off of you not being able to get a reading. |
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Post by steven on Jun 27, 2015 6:00:02 GMT -6
It is a ground that pulled loose. I still don't know if it fits where Alleyoop says it does, even with the pic blown up. Anyways, it is a ground that has pulled loose. That means something is not grounded now. It also means that something is within the radius of that wire. Have you checked to see if both of your blinkers are grounded? If your flasher is buzzing, there is something suspicious going on.
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 15:06:44 GMT -6
You need to test whether or not you are getting 12v DC to your starter when you hit the starter button. I have a feeling it's your solenoid. Mine went out, and I just put a toggle switch between the battery and the starter while I waited for the solenoid to come in the mail.
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 14:55:47 GMT -6
Yep, I agree with Alleyoop. It appears as though that wire went inside that clear plastic, in what appears to be a 2 wire connector. Hard to tell for sure. Just wrap it around there, and then see if some stuff starts to work better.
Then, if your turn signals still don't work, I want you to test the ground wires off of the turn signals for continuity with the frame, just like you did with that wire. Hell, test every ground wire you can find like that. You can do this! If something is not grounded, all you have to do is attach the ground wire to the frame, or another ground wire that does have continuity with the frame.
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 10:42:46 GMT -6
Also, is there a green wire coming out of your key ignition switch?
You can do this. It really sounds like you have something not grounded somewhere in the loop. The key is to not get frustrated. If you know a little bit about how to use a multi-meter, you can do it! These things are not very complicated.
You should have a hot, and a ground coming from each blinker light. You should have a ground coming from your key ignition switch. You should have a ground on your horn. You should have a ground on the kill switch. I want you to verify you have a ground to each of those, then we can move forward. I'm betting your answer lies in one of those areas, and I doubt it is the horn.
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 10:35:25 GMT -6
Does it have a connector on the end of it? If so, what does the connector look like? It could be a ground for the turn signals. It could have pulled out of a switch. If you could post a pic of the connector, that would be great.
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Post by steven on Jun 26, 2015 8:54:47 GMT -6
I agree that the solid green wire is almost certainly a ground. When you say a brake switch/starting problem, are you saying that your starter isn't engaging when you press the brake, and the starter button? Are your brake lights coming on when you press the brake?
To check that green wire, you can check it, if you have a multimeter. Do you have a multimeter? You can switch it to Ohms, and touch the green wire with one probe, and the frame with another. Your digital meter should go down to between 2-0. If that happens, it is definitely a ground wire. If your meter has an audible continuity tester, when you do what I described, it will beep.
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Post by steven on Jun 25, 2015 16:22:11 GMT -6
If your brights work, you have power to the headlights. Check the filament for your low beams. The rear running light is the brown wire coming out from the tail-light, at least it's probably brown. Check the power to the brown wire. There are 2 filaments in the tail light bulb. The filament for the running tail light will burn out much faster than the brake light. I suspect you have burnt out bulbs in the front and back.
If not, the white wire up front is the low beam, the blue is the high beam. Brown wire in back is the tail light, your brake light wire is probably green and yellow. Remember, the headlights are AC. Your tail light could be either, but it is probably DC. I am pretty sure they all come on with the ignition switch, before you start the engine.
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Post by steven on Jun 23, 2015 21:31:06 GMT -6
Those little wires don't attach to a post on the solenoid. Those go to a relay that is built into the soleniod. The green/yellow one is from the switch on your brake handle. The other one is from the switch.
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