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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 22, 2016 11:53:57 GMT -6
Okay, turns out my air filter wasn't at all what I expected to see! It looks nearly clean ...what?? Only thing is it smells like gas. 16,000 miles never cleaned. Makes me wonder is the thing even FILTERING air? The foam around it is super thin. Here's some pictures... does it even need anything done or should I put it back in?    |
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 21, 2016 23:20:34 GMT -6
Thank you olivertwisted!  Yes I have been going a little crazy trying all kinds of things. People around here have gotten used to seeing me out there every day working on it... the funny part is I haven't been out there much the past couple weeks, but people still tell me they see me out there working on it every day. lol I did the same thing on something else, after someone backed into my bike - now I have a 24/7 camera pointed at it (simple webcam with free motion detection software), but I was constantly playing with the camera settings, program settings, and swapping out cameras. It's like I just have to get some things the best they can possibly be... even if that means going right back to where I started sometimes! Update on the new clutch: after a few rides, the RPMs are back to normal... just needed to break-in. All is good. |
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 20, 2016 19:33:14 GMT -6
Makes sense, thanks! Basically: no.
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 20, 2016 19:14:59 GMT -6
But I mean, can you fill them up cold past the max psi shown on the tire to compensate for passenger? It sounds like no, but some people say their manuals say something like 32 without passenger, 36 with passenger... so made me wonder if that was past the max specs of the tire.
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 20, 2016 17:57:52 GMT -6
You know how the tire sidewalls say something like max load 32front/33rear and something max lbs... well my question is can I go ABOVE that max psi since I frequently ride passengers between 170-200 lbs? There is a big difference in weight balance, acceleration, and handling when passengers are on compared to riding solo. With passenger it feels quite rear heavy since they're sat right above the rear tire. It also will bottom out very easy going over gutters if I don't go up them sideways. So can I fill up the rear tire more, or can you never go above that max psi thing on the tire no matter what?
My bike specs on the sticker say 28.5 psi front, 32 psi rear, and the bike is around 220 lbs.
My tirewalls say max 32 front, 33 rear.
Riding solo I seem to enjoy 30-31 front and 33 rear.
I was thinking can I go up to like 36 rear or something?
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by: rosiemoto - Feb 20, 2016 15:14:04 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Feb 20, 2016 15:14:04 GMT -6
Alright so I got my new speedometer cable, 38" and 14mm sleeve. It fits PERFECT... I'm so happy. It's so satisfying to do the work yourself and then SEE IT WORK. I also put in the new clutch today.
Question... is cleaning your belt in soap+water bad?... because ever since I did mine a month or 2 ago, the belt has been really noisy, like a rubbery sound as it goes around. I'm afraid the belt could be wearing down.
I also can't seem to get any faster than 55mph. My max was 61mph consistently before, and the only changes have been, new clutch and temporarily changing to rollers FROM sliders. Still have Koso variator in, and the smaller sized mismatched fan pulley. Can a new freshly put in clutch cause temporary loss of top speed until it breaks in?
I know also my air filter desperately needs done too... it's now slowly leaking gas from its hoses, all over the CVT cover. My bike was backed into and knocked over about a week ago... could be very related! Going to get on cleaning that ASAP because gas did leak out and I think it might've got in there.
Well the Dr Pulley sliders are on the way. I'm trying to keep each job separate so I know how each thing affects the performance. If I get those sliders in and still can't top 55mph, then I know it's gotta be something else. I'll continue to update as I go!
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 20, 2016 14:04:07 GMT -6
I just put in my new clutch...the difference is crazy at takeoff! Old clutch felt as if I was almost dumping the clutch every takeoff, and new clutch I can't even feel there's a clutch anymore. Taking the nut off (first time it's been off) was a little scary... I thought my breaker bar was starting to bend it took so much force. So I used my leg and stepped on the breaker bar gradually until it came loose. I put it back on with 35 ft/lbs with my torque wrench, because 30 felt so wimpy compared to what was needed to get it off, and I'm paranoid when it's my first time doing something! After replacing clutch, RPMs were a little high at first but they seem to be coming back down to normal after a quick test ride or 2. It's like going through a break-in period or something. Here's pictures of my old and new clutch. The new one is the one with yellow pads. You can see the old one has lost its padding far from the edges, and it's very smooth/glazed.    |
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 16, 2016 20:58:49 GMT -6
Thank you Alleyoop. When I get it out, I'll take some pictures of what a 16,000 mile uncleaned air filter looks like...
By the way, those little clamps shown in the picture on the hose... where can they be gotten and what are they called? I think some of mine are getting weak and rusty.
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 16, 2016 20:45:40 GMT -6
Another place to check is tire pressure... it could be contributing. My tires were both only 2 PSI under normal and it was making my bike feel sluggish. I fill mine up to what the side of the tires say... for my bike that's 33 PSI rear and 32 front.
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 16, 2016 20:30:31 GMT -6
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 14, 2016 23:29:29 GMT -6
I was just made aware that there's an air filter that needs cleaning every 1,000(?) miles and I've never touched that area and am near 16,000 miles now. That's kinda scary, what am I going to see when I take it out...
I understand how to take the box apart, just unscrew the outer cover screws (don't need to take the whole box off), and there's the filter. But...
How do you deal with the filter? I'm really lost after the cleaning part. I heard to clean, you bathe it in dish soap+warm water then squeeze (not wring) dry between paper towels or a clean rag or something. The next part totally throws me off as a beginner - you're supposed to oil it after? What kind of oil? Can I use the same oil I put in my engine and how much? I'm assuming the filter is sponge-like so is there a good method of spreading the oil evenly? Do you need to add gas too or is just oil fine?
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by: rosiemoto - Feb 14, 2016 19:27:11 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Feb 14, 2016 19:27:11 GMT -6
Interesting... I think I experienced exactly what you're talking about when it went from 80s to 50s outside. Also at night time, yep. Does that happen for all bikes or just air cooled ones?
I still have the 13g rollers in for now and I noticed its behavior changed a little since I first put them in. It seems like there's always a small "break-in period" after I mess with the variator and I forgot not to come to conclusions until a few rides! In my last post I said the 13g rollers seemed the same as the 12g sliders...well today different story! I've gone about 30 miles since, and now I can definitely feel the slight over-heaviness of the 13g rollers in the Koso variator; just in one day it's changed about 300 rpm lower overall, weaker acceleration, and developed a quick gear shift at 10-15mph. How come this "break-in" thing happens, or is it just me? Will be ordering the 12g Dr Pulley sliders soon!
By the way, a testimony from me about tire pressure! I think it just hit me how drastic of a change just a few psi of air can make! My bike was feeling kinda sluggish lately and like the tires were "pancaking" against the ground and engine braking was a bit strong (often having to accelerate to not stop so fast)... but when I measured the tires it was only 2-3 psi low on both, so I thought nothing really about it. Today I decided to fill them up (from 31r/30f to 34r/32f) and WOW the difference is big and it's like a new bike again. Turning, acceleration, cruise throttle position, engine braking, everything is just better.
TIP for some who might not know: if you're afraid of the air machines at gas stations like I am, you can use a bicycle pump to fill up scooter tires. Or at least I do and it's worked great. I use a foot operated one from Walmart. Mine's got a PSI dial on it but it's not totally accurate, so I set it roughly where I want it, then recheck with a standard tire gauge and adjust as needed.
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by: rosiemoto - Feb 13, 2016 17:56:06 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Feb 13, 2016 17:56:06 GMT -6
That's strange, with the Koso variator in, I switched from 12g sliders (cheap) to 11g sliders (Dr Pulley) and I got like 1,000 RPM higher...
That's why I was wondering a couple posts ago and asked if Dr Pulley is any different for RPMs vs cheap sliders, because you and others say it should only be making ~200-350rpm difference, but going 1g lighter makes a drastic change for me. And then going 1g heavier to ROLLERS gave me the same RPM. Are the cheap sliders possibly just designed in a way that they not only flip themselves around, but give you inconsistent results too, even if they weigh the correct grams?
Because this is my results and it just seems strange:
11g Dr Pulley sliders: Way too light by like 1,000 RPM
12g cheap sliders: Just right
13g rollers (more like 12.8): Just right
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by: rosiemoto - Feb 13, 2016 14:29:07 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Feb 13, 2016 14:29:07 GMT -6
Yeah I think the 12g sliders is what it wants on mine too.
SURPRISING RESULTS for me: I just tested 13g rollers (actually they all weigh 12.7-12.8g) inside the Koso variator... worked pretty well actually, and it surprised me that it felt nearly identical to the 12g sliders up until 45mph or so. Low throttle 5k rpm cruise was still there, and acceleration had same exact RPMs (6.1k WOT), BUT the difference was I ran out of gearing a bit sooner and it started doing a very obvious climb in RPM. My speedometer is out at the moment but by feel I'd guess around 45 is where it ran out of gearing with the 13g rollers.
I'm surprised the 13g rollers are giving me the same RPMs as 12g sliders?? I was thinking with sliders you had to go heavier to get same RPMs as rollers... in other words I thought rollers "acted heavier" than sliders. Is it the other way around then?
What's confusing me even more, in the K&S variator I got a big difference between 12g sliders and 13g rollers... the 12g sliders were too light and lost top speed, but the 13g rollers were slightly light/revvy but still gave me top speed.
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by: rosiemoto - Feb 13, 2016 12:26:09 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Feb 13, 2016 12:26:09 GMT -6
Okay just retested the full set of 11g Dr Pulley sliders with Koso variator... they're too light so my first test was right. Acceleration is nice at higher throttle, but low-mid throttle feels weak/revvy/slippy. I don't think it's pushing the belt all the way out either, so loss of top speed probably.
My 12g cheap $9 sliders just keep spinning in and out of place when they feel like it. Literally one could be flipped at one stop sign, then the next stop sign it'll flip itself back into place. So I guess it's true, if you're gonna get sliders, don't cheap out on them unless you only wanna use them for testing...these cheap ones I have are consistently good for maybe 30 miles each time I re-put them in lol. They don't appear worn, it's just they're flipping around one at a time. I haven't seen more than one flipped at once though, but I've had 2 different ones do it already.
I'm going to try the 13g rollers with Koso variator now, since it's something I haven't tried yet. I'm expecting it to be too heavy, but who knows... might be interesting.
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Yes I have been going a little crazy trying all kinds of things. People around here have gotten used to seeing me out there every day working on it... the funny part is I haven't been out there much the past couple weeks, but people still tell me they see me out there working on it every day. lol