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by: rosiemoto - Dec 26, 2015 16:40:10 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 26, 2015 16:40:10 GMT -6
Thank you.
I just put in the 12g sliders into the Koso variator and it's WOT at 5500 rpm. Will putting in this bigger variator fan fix this? I want ~7000 rpm WOT and ~5000rpm cruise like you've been saying.
I managed to hit 63 indicated mph now with the sliders. 2mph faster than my record. I was at 7300rpm@63mph I think.
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Post by rosiemoto on Dec 25, 2015 19:43:50 GMT -6
Sorry by pop I meant CLANK like metal hitting metal.
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Post by rosiemoto on Dec 25, 2015 12:38:54 GMT -6
I'm having a few problems with my kickstarter. 1: the kickstart lever doesn't seem to grip to the camshaft. Both are pretty rusty and I'm wondering if they're just stripped out. Or it could be that the kickstart lever's bolt isn't being tightened enough because it's stripping out... not sure where to blame. 2: 80% of the time the kickstarter gets STUCK as I try to kick it, and something inside the bike will make loud pops if it gets stuck then frees itself halfway during the kick. I hear the same loud pops when first using the electric start sometimes. I think the middle gear isn't pushing out properly?3: When I take out everything and realign the gears correctly, as in both alignment marks facing <-- <-- , I bolt the CVT case back on and give it a kick and it just goes out of whack and gets stuck/doesn't return. So gears on correctly seems to be completely useless on my bike. 4: When I put the gears on INCORRECTLY, as in both alignment marks facing --> -->, the kickstart has a huge deadzone but after about 90 degrees of dead turn it'll catch and give maybe 3 or 4 inches of kickstart I can use, so if I give it a swift smooth kick it'll start. PICTURES: (sorry I forgot to take one of the gears themself.. but I do know the "middle" gear has a crack in it somewhere.)  Would it be worth spraying those with WD-40 and maybe like a wirebrush to get that rust off? The stripped bolt I mentioned I'll just get a new one at Ace. Hopefully it's just rust and the teeth are fine but what do you think? Thank you! |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 25, 2015 12:15:38 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 25, 2015 12:15:38 GMT -6
Alleyoop, I believe I may have guessed right about my stock fan being smaller than the Koso variator. Take a look:  |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 20, 2015 23:01:04 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 20, 2015 23:01:04 GMT -6
lol, maybe... I have been everywhere researching on variators and weights and how they affect things. Especially YouTube so I can SEE it. But no, actually you made me say 9g.  Because I was guesstimating I should have 8g ROLLERS because of my low revs with the stock 13g ROLLERS(+Koso variator), and then you said to convert it 1g higher when moving to SLIDERS, so that makes 9g sliders... right? What... why are you looking at me funny!... yeah honestly I thought it sounded pretty light. So then I should get the 12g SLIDERS, right? Not my crazy 9g?  I am so ready to order them, but I want to make sure with you first. From what I'm seeing when watching comparison videos, the sliders don't suddenly run out of gearing (at ~43mph) like the rollers do. If I understand right, that means accelerating up to something like 50mph or 55mph then backing off the throttle to cruise will lower the RPM? (how much depending on throttle position/wind/etc) . Then going WOT will create a downshifting effect? ...if putting in sliders makes all this happen for me then this is the secret ingredient I've been looking for! Sounds to me like sliders has the best of both worlds...low cruising RPM, high accelerating RPM...just overall more "dynamic." I'm thinking maybe this is why putting in the Koso variator made no difference in my top end, because I've been using rollers and they just have that stubborn 43mph gearing limit regardless of the variator. The sliders would allow the belt to go further and further up, and I guess with the stock variator it'll eventually hit a limit and that's where the Koso variator comes in with its extra space for the belt to go even higher. I think I got it!? |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 20, 2015 14:19:09 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 20, 2015 14:19:09 GMT -6
One more thing I've been wondering. The Koso variator didn't come with a "fan"... in other words the front piece the 17mm nut is up against. Mine is still the stock fan, so they're mismatched in size... is that a problem at all? I'm wondering since the sliders should ride the belt higher up, it might be too high for the stock fan?
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 19, 2015 22:22:15 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 19, 2015 22:22:15 GMT -6
Hang on... do SLIDERS act in reverse for weight? Heavier = more RPM WOT, Lighter = Less RPM WOT?
I ask because I saw a video and the guy said it that way, and I thought to myself he must have said it backwards... but then I saw this comparison video between 14g and 23g on the same bike...
14g sliders: (Lighter, yet LESS revs??)
23g sliders: (Heavier, yet MORE revs??)
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 19, 2015 17:35:38 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 19, 2015 17:35:38 GMT -6
I must say you are very observant and excellent at diagnosing a problem. ... Thank you! That's a big compliment for me. I'm like that with computers when something bugs me, like if it's acting slow or has a delay after clicking on things, I'll go crazy trying to figure out what's causing it. I usually end up figuring out the cause but not always know a way to fix it, so sometimes I'd go on forums to ask how to fix something very specific and try my best to "keep it in english," but it seems like noone ever knows what I'm talking about lol. I was guessing it would take me to go all the way down to 8g ROLLERS to make mine back to normal (meaning to get 6500rpm WOT)... so are you saying I should try 9g SLIDERS? Or... Should I still do the 12g SLIDERS like you said before? AWESOME, that's what I'll do! |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 19, 2015 15:55:13 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 19, 2015 15:55:13 GMT -6
Unfortunately I was unable to do my valve adjustment because the bottom right 8mm screw is like impossible to reach even after taking off all the plastic farings and floorboard. I ended up spending like 3 hours out there for nothing... but at least now I know how all the farings hook together. I just need that ONE screw off somehow and I could manage the rest.. so frustrating. Also realized one of my battery screws are stripped.
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 19, 2015 0:06:19 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 19, 2015 0:06:19 GMT -6
Some reason I didn't know you were using sliders... okay I think I'm making sense out of this now. I think you mentioned before that sliders need more weight to equal the same RPMs as rollers. So 12g SLIDERS could be like 8g ROLLERS? You've been telling me to go to 12g (did you mean 12g SLIDERS??). I've been assuming you meant 12g ROLLERS so it just hasn't been making sense to me because when I went down from 15g rollers to 13g rollers, it didn't raise it nearly enough. If you meant I should get 12g sliders like you've got, then that makes sense to me now! Because... ---WITH KOSO I get this--- 15g rollers: 4800rpm full throttle; 3700 cruise sideroads (25-30mph) 13g rollers: 5000-5300rpm full throttle; 4200 cruise on sideroads (25-30mph) ----------------------------- ***So continuing that ^ trend this is what I would then expect from these sets of rollers and sliders WITH KOSO: 12g rollers: 5200-5600rpm full throttle; 4500 cruise on sideroads (25-30mph) 8g rollers: ~6500rpm full throttle; ~5200 cruise on sideroads (25-30mph) (BACK WHERE I STARTED) <-- me guessing 12g SLIDERS: SOLUTION? ~7000+rpm full throttle; ~4000 cruise sideroads? <-- me TOTALLY guessing; never tried sliders. I see some generic sliders for around $9 on eBay... is there any huge difference to these vs the Dr Pulley brand? I'd love to save money just in case the 12g sliders are too light/heavy. www.ebay.com/itm/151259819244 |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 18, 2015 15:26:28 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 18, 2015 15:26:28 GMT -6
I just got the feeler gauges so I can adjust the valve timings, paid $5 at Harbor Freight... was expecting a little less but oh well, beats paying a mechanic to do the adjustment! Is this the right size I should adjust it to?  Thanks again for another interesting video. Up here in Cheese Head Land you would get a BIG ticket for driving in the bicycle lane. And being a bicyclist I would demand it.  I guess it wasn't so legal here either from what I hear in the comments. I guess I thought it was okay since I see slow scooters and harleys sometimes doing what I did in the bike lane. |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 16, 2015 0:20:16 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 16, 2015 0:20:16 GMT -6
I just came across this older thread with someone who experienced exactly the same thing as me when getting the Koso variator (you're in this thread Alleyoop):
I was comparing my old variator and new variator videos I took and it really is a huge drop in RPM. Today I was barely hitting 5000 RPM full throttle with the stock 13g rollers. As my bike goes through its "variator readjustment period," it just keeps getting lower and lower RPMs every few rides. I feel like I'd need 8g or lower rollers to satisfy this variator... what's going on? I feel like might as well go back to stock to get the same effect?
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 11, 2015 20:36:39 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 11, 2015 20:36:39 GMT -6
But if it is clacking it may be your valves which would effect performance quite a bit. I have a feeling that's what it might be and I believe that was mentioned to me before on these forums. I just watched a video and it doesn't look too hard. What's your opinion on the feeler gauge I should go for on both nuts? One video said 4000th at the exhaust but 3000 at the top. Also, my new variator is in action on my latest motovlog, and I did some acceleration and top speed tests. I thought you might like to see it: |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 11, 2015 19:43:36 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 11, 2015 19:43:36 GMT -6
Wait a minute!! are you doing this while it is on the center stand? Yes... it was on center stand. Every time I've done this test for you it's been on center stand... oops. When I was revving it on the center stand, there's 2 dangling wires and I was focused on them to make sure they didn't sway into the variator fan. I'll record a video of the rattling for you soon. I thought for a long time the rattling was the old variator, but it still does it even with the new one. It's a loud rapid "clack" sound that suddenly starts whenever revving over 7000rpm. I think I hear it behind and right of me... it's so loud it's hard to tell. You know what though... it seems like soon as that sound happens is when I can't go any faster... |
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by: rosiemoto - Dec 11, 2015 16:02:57 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Dec 11, 2015 16:02:57 GMT -6
With that test, I revved each past the point where it rattles loud (7200rpm), so I was probably redlining or close. I made sure when it was up there, it was WOT, but I didn't hold it because I just don't feel it would be enjoying that. I did repeat each 2 or 3 times just to make sure. It just seems like the belt doesn't want to go any higher even with this new variator.
If it helps, I notice my rollers don't seem to affect anything above 43mph where it then "locks into gear."
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Because I was guesstimating I should have 8g ROLLERS because of my low revs with the stock 13g ROLLERS(+Koso variator), and then you said to convert it 1g higher when moving to SLIDERS, so that makes 9g sliders... right? What... why are you looking at me funny!... yeah honestly I thought it sounded pretty light.
I am so ready to order them, but I want to make sure with you first. 
