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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 15, 2016 10:48:32 GMT -6
Just got my new master cylinder, but I'm having trouble finding the process on how to disassemble the whole thing WHILE there's still brake fluid in it. I'm wondering if there's barely any in it with how the handle is acting.
Do I first open up the bleeder and flow that into a container for a while until I think it's drained? I'm assuming I DON'T squeeze the brakes during the process and it'll just bleed out on its own. Then afterwards, I would just unbolt the old master cylinder from the handlebar, then unhook the hose from it that comes from the wheel/brakes?
Not sure how that hose that comes from the wheel up to the master cylinder connects to the master cyl. I haven't seen it in person, but in videos it looks like the hose goes halfway into a bolt or something weird?
So in short, old master cylinder needs to come out, it still has brake fluid in it, screws are stuck, I want to replace it with new master cylinder but not sure what the process is.
Thanks!
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 12, 2016 11:54:27 GMT -6
Funny seeing this because I JUST went through that myself yesterday figuring out what type master cylinder to get lol. My bike is a little different and has the mirror mounts on the turn signal and killswitch holder things.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 11, 2016 18:19:06 GMT -6
I'm one of the ones that snapped my variator with a breaker bar; it happened while I was trying to tighten it with breaker bar to match the original tightness (no-no!). I now only use breaker bar for loosening the nut, then I switch to torque wrench to tighten it, and I've personally had good luck setting it to 27 ft/lbs, which is welllll under the original.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 11, 2016 15:55:32 GMT -6
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 10, 2016 23:15:17 GMT -6
Thank you, yeah I'll take a good look then. I might end up needing to replace the master cylinder anyway since the window is cracked/leaks, and is patched by superglueing a dime onto it and the edges. Just hoping I can get away with it for a while longer.. seems to be a lot of work to put on a new one.  I'm completely new to all that...  |
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 10, 2016 22:24:08 GMT -6
My brake lever is pressing WAY in before the brakes apply lately. I recently cleaned up my front brake rotor/disc with rubbing alcohol because it felt like it wasn't grabbing, like slipping on oil. It seems to have improved braking power, but a week or 2 later my lever started going way in about 90% of the time like there's no pressure, and the other 10% it suddenly goes back to normal and I have normal good brakes again. I tried to get the alcohol from the rotor onto the brake pads by spinning the tire with brake applied gently... I assumed it would help clean the pads from oils, but I'm wondering if it did something to them.
What's probably the real reason is I know I'm well overdue for a brake fluid change... been 6 years and I've never done anything to it. It's been showing me on and off symptoms for a while and now it's yelling at me. I attempted to replace the fluid the other day but the screws to the fluid cap stripped out instantly and they're really in there tight, so I can't even get in there. Can I just drill the screw heads until they're broken and no longer holding the cap? Or any tips like that on getting them out? Thanks!
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 6, 2016 21:46:23 GMT -6
I think it's all fixed now, I'm HOPING it stays good! After some experimenting I found it was simply the bulb wasn't turned/locked in! It had to be pushed in, then turned. Without doing that, it meant the connections had to be manipulated lower to sit on it, and it kept vibrating off/on because the bulb wasn't locked. It also meant the connections were coming in contact with the plastic bulb holder, and caused some meltage. I was wondering what that smell was...
With the bulb being in incorrectly, I couldn't tell which was low and high beam..they were both weird. Low beam aimed at the sky, and high beam threw a jagged pattern close up.
What I figured out is strangely it seems low beam comes from the TOP side of the bulb. That's confusing. When I purposely switched it around to come from the bottom of the bulb, it aimed up at the trees.
Well all is good now... it still pulses a little..hoping it's not the stator and maybe just the resistor that was put in at one point.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 6, 2016 14:03:08 GMT -6
Think I might know why the light is throwing a weird pattern... it's in DIAGONAL. Might be why the beams seemed switch, and maybe why the high beam hits the trees instead of the road.  That's not normal, right? |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 6, 2016 13:56:39 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 6, 2016 13:56:39 GMT -6
I did the test and it seemed not to move after releasing my hand on the butterfly at wide open. I tightened it up anyway and then started noticing it clicks (hitting the stopper I assume) at wide open. I didn't notice if it did before, but at least now it definitely does. I might need a new cable sometime soon I'm wondering, because I seem to really have the adjuster pretty far down.  I found a missing clamp in the carb area! What does that hose do?  |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 5, 2016 21:30:37 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 5, 2016 21:30:37 GMT -6
Does having freeplay in the throttle affect how fast you can go? Wondering if my throttle's moderate amount of freeplay is limiting the throttle from going all the way wide open?
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 4, 2016 15:12:46 GMT -6
For chuckles try putting in a 25watt bulb instead of a 35. What would that do? Would it maybe work better? In the picture in first post, can you tell if that is low beam? I had it set to high beam and it looks more like low beam to me. |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 4, 2016 13:50:43 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 4, 2016 13:50:43 GMT -6
Alright I just put in the 115mm variator fan. From revving it on the center stand, it looks like the issue with the belt "shifting up" on deceleration is gone now! The belt rides pretty close to the edge now after enough speed is built up, and if I let off the gas, the belt doesn't upshift, yay! RPMs seem to have been lowered some too, but I haven't ridden on it yet so I can't say yet my RPMs. Unfortunately Alleyoop, I didn't do the marker test because I wasn't sure I'd be able to get the fan on since my tool wasn't fitting it. So you may be wondering how I got it on. Well that DIY spanner I posted a picture of a few posts ago, didn't work as planned either. Since it went straight across, it blocked the wrench from being able to get in. I got determined to figure out a way to make it work somehow, and I did! One screw went in a variator hole, and the other screw went against the outside edge of the variator, with something in between to protect from scratches. Worked perfect for torquing the nut to my usual 27 ft/lbs. Yay for $4 DIY spanner! See for yourself: First picture is showing "oops... didn't think of that..."  Second picture is how I positioned it to hold. This trick gives room for the torque wrench to go to the nut. Just hold the spanner with one hand, and torque wrench in the other: 
The trick is to position it in such a way that the screw at the outside edge is being rotated toward the variator. It must be a screw long enough to reach at least slightly past the edge. The variator naturally stops the spanner from rotating any further because IT'S there in the way. Both screws were positioned 8cm apart, or basically whatever space the holes are. |
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 4, 2016 10:08:15 GMT -6
Other things I know that are related is: rectifier was changed along with a new bulb; then that bulb stopped lighting 2 weeks later. Afterwards a resistor was put in somewhere by another shop, to lower the voltage that was going to the light I guess. They said it was going up to 15v with engine revving... the resistor lowered it to 13 or 14v if I remember all this correctly? New bulb, shortly later it went out too. Brought it to shop, they bent the connector, it lit up again... then went out again again later. This was a couple years ago and after that is where I gave up... I was spending too much money at the shops and it still wasn't working.
Alleyoop, I don't have the original bulb to compare with, but I'm pretty sure it's the same one it's got in now. I bought 2 from eBay and it's the same exact thing and same packaging as the ones my local shop sells, and they're the shop I bought the scooter from. But the original bulb lasted 3 years.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 3, 2016 14:59:06 GMT -6
All of my other lights run good... they all run from the battery, except the main headlight (the problem one) which runs only when engine is on. This is the type of bulb (12v 35w) my bike has always had since I bought it. I do wonder if it's the wrong type now that you mention it. I wouldn't put it past the shop that assembled it. When I put the bulb into the socket, the connectors at the bottom of the bulb face DIAGONAL instead of straight, so they're barely touching, and it just seems wrong. If it helps I can take it apart and get a picture up of the whole assembly? |
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 3, 2016 12:01:44 GMT -6
I think somewhere along when various people have worked on my bike to fix my headlight issue, my headlight wiring might have gotten switched. The light pattern completely changed when a neighbor put in a new bulb for me, and it's been weird ever since that time. That was the first time it was touched. High beam makes a weird pattern of light in front of me, and low beam is very dim and further out, with a circular shape. This is the same headlight I've been having trouble with for years blowing out and/or losing connection. I managed to get it working at least for now by bending the contacts on the connector downward to fit onto the light better... it'll probably vibrate itself back away again, unless I did a better job than the local mechanics around here...lol...very possible... If the high and low beam are swapped, how would I fix them? Another thing, my light "pulses" while riding.. like it's not getting a constant power or something. It's not a flicker, but a gradual dim, then comes back, and repeats. This is a picture of when I have the switch on high beam. In person, it looks like a bunch of lines going outward, and it doesn't really light up directly in front of me; it lights up the diagonal sides mostly.  |
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I'm completely new to all that... 
