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by: rosiemoto - Mar 28, 2016 20:34:18 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 28, 2016 20:34:18 GMT -6
Longer belt may get you a few more mph by climbing higher on the variator. Don't know if it is due to the variator or not unless you can post pictures on how the belt is sitting using both variators. That would be cool because I've still got a decent amount of clean untouched area at the edge of my variator, even after upgrading the fan pulley size. More mph is welcome! I just hit 60.5mph indicated today with what's in there right now..ALMOST matched my old speed record, BUT I was totally going with the wind so it doesn't count. I'll make a video of the CVT tomorrow (if weather is nice) so you can see how it's all working at idle. If you like, it wouldn't be any trouble for me to swap to the stock variator just to see if that does change it. Actually I'll do that too then, and make it all into a quick video! |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 28, 2016 20:09:09 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 28, 2016 20:09:09 GMT -6
Wondering why this happened, since my stock belt is 842-20-30... could it be because I now have a performance variator (the Koso), so it needs the longer belt? So if yes, if I put the stock variator in it, the 842 would work perfect again I guess? Not that I want to, but just good to know.
Does a longer belt have any effects to top speed or RPM?
edit: yeah definitely isn't at the top like in your picture. Probably a half inch to an inch in.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 28, 2016 19:47:06 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 28, 2016 19:47:06 GMT -6
Sorry I think I'm using the wrong word. It's not the engine bogging, just the RPMs are too low and it's not taking off in 1st gear, more like 2nd gear, so it's struggling and sounds like a lawnmower during takeoff. Oh and it takes off with very light throttle, so if I give it a little gas with electric start it'll take off on me for example. This happened when my rollers were too heavy once before, but I don't think that's the case now. Here's an illustration of what I see:  |
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 28, 2016 19:21:04 GMT -6
Wow nice, your bike looks brand new!
Maybe for the back brakes dragging, you could unscrew that little adjuster a bit, the one near the rear wheel. Should fix it, unless you've already got it to the edge?
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 27, 2016 18:05:30 GMT -6
Cool, glad my experiments and posts are helpful! Alleyoop is right about the speedometer. My bike has the bigger style tires, not sure on the size, but anyway right around 25mph is where my speedometer starts drifting off from real speed. 40mph on the needle = 36 real mph for me, so I have to go 45 to actually go 40, according to my phone's GPS! For about 5 years I thought every car was just speeding 5 or 10 over because my needle was right on the speed limit, lol.  |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 27, 2016 17:48:03 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 27, 2016 17:48:03 GMT -6
Well the new chinese belt I put in hasn't changed any yet, and still tight. Been about 75 miles. I assume this is GOOD, but the problem is I gotta figure out why my clutch is engaging at such a low RPM now (stays and bogs around 3-3.5k during takeoff). Koso variator + 12 Dr Pulley sliders + 115mm variator fan. I still have my old clutch in and haven't sanded the pads yet so that could just simply be it. Don't feel like swapping all the springs to the new clutch yet.
My RPMs seem to be lowered at the top end, maybe too low? - 6.5k at 58 55mph WOT. Doesn't 157qmj engine give most power at 7k or so? I decided to put in the old variator fan and see if anything changes with the takeoff RPMs, and maybe it'll raise top end RPM a little. I did notice after changing from 108mm fan to 115mm fan, low speed RPMs dropped but not much else, so we'll see. I'll report back with my findings as always!
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 24, 2016 22:46:02 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 24, 2016 22:46:02 GMT -6
Thanks. Sounds like maybe it'd be a good idea to break the new belt in easy and not go zooming around for a little while. How long do belts normally take to "break in?"
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 24, 2016 18:53:56 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 24, 2016 18:53:56 GMT -6
Just got my belt. It seems to be the same belt as my stock one. This one measured exactly 20mm wide as it should be. The 2 Gates Powerlink belts I got before were both 19mm new... what's up with that? I'll keep them around them as emergency-only spares. Just got done cleaning out the CVT area of all the caked belt dust from that last Gates belt.
I haven't ridden with this new belt yet but first thing I noticed was at idle it sits noticeably lower/further in the clutch pulley, and seems like the revs will be lower at takeoff. Is that normal/fine? I revved it up a few times but the belt never returns to the top of the clutch like I got used to seeing with the old belts.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 23, 2016 19:47:53 GMT -6
Ah, got it! Thank you Alleyoop!
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 23, 2016 15:51:41 GMT -6
I put in a new clutch and it's super smooth off the line, but it's also WEAK off the line as if I'm on a 50cc instead of 150cc. If I go WOT from a standstill, it revs up to only about 3.8k, stays there for 2-3 seconds, then it will finally accelerate normally. It's almost to the point I feel like I have to help push the bike with my own feet to get it going. I put in my original (6 year) old clutch as a test and it's strong off the line again, and "clutches" only for half a second, which is muchhh nicer. Is this because my old clutch's contra spring is looser and lets the clutch "grab" sooner?
I notice my new clutch has much wider pads; does that affect this too, or would it only be that contra spring? I'm under the impression I could swap the old contraspring over to the new clutch, and that would make the new clutch grab much quicker like my old one does?
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 22, 2016 12:59:06 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 22, 2016 12:59:06 GMT -6
When I replaced these 2 belts new, they start off nice and tight, then over a short time they get loose and flap at idle. Check the video I posted in the last page or 2 of how tight it starts out at. The one I just put in 2 weeks ago is now loose like the old one in the video was.
Well I put in the old clutch to see if my top speed would return, nope. I got the same top speed, so looks like it very well could be these belts. Also there was belt dust CAKED EVERYWHERE on the removal CVT cover.
I have only tried 842-20-30 belts since that's what came with my bike. However, I have upsized both the variator and variator FAN pulleys from stock, BOTH were 108mm, now 115mm, so could that be stretching these belts out? Or are these belts just simply fakes... anyway I ordered a regular 842-20-30 belt from ScrappyDogScooters, should be here in a week or so.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 21, 2016 21:39:38 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 21, 2016 21:39:38 GMT -6
Both belts are Gates Powerlink 842-20-30. The previous one was the one I got from Amazon, and the one in now is the one from eBay. Both look just like the bottom one in this picture as far as markings, which indicates it as a fake... I don't know what to think. My STOCK belt says 842-20-30.  |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 21, 2016 20:55:50 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 21, 2016 20:55:50 GMT -6
I finally got around to getting some hose clamps, and I've put one on that hose that was missing it.
Yes, I think my valve cover has the chrome pipe... I remember it preventing me from taking off my valve cover; it was in the way of the bolt. I may have that foam filter like in the thread you linked, I gotta check that out because I was getting leaks there until I repositioned its hose clamp a few weeks ago. I'm guessing the process to clean that foam piece is soap+water, wait to dry, then dab a little engine oil on it, or not on that filter?
I'm still getting 54-59mph top speed depending on wind direction... tomorrow I'm going to put my old clutch back in to see if it'll go back to that consistent 61mph I used to get. To be honest I'm not sure I like the feel of the new clutch... it's 100% SMOOTH during the whole takeoff, but it feels WEAK though, almost like I need to help push the bike with my own legs off the line. My old clutch had a nice strong/grippy takeoff feeling... at least, when it didn't shake my bike like a maniac.
It's been a couple weeks or so since I changed my belt, but I'm now hearing chattering/slapping again at idle (1500rpm). It's definitely coming from the CVT area so I'm afraid if the new belt has also become loose like the previous one did? Will check if the belt feels stretched/loose before I swap out the clutch.
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 17, 2016 12:28:14 GMT -6
I just went through this myself, or similar at least. My problem was the local mechanics here never turned/locked the bulb into the plastic connection piece, so the contacts had to be manipulated to touch, which eventually made them come in contact with the plastic connector and meltttt. "Why does my scooter smell like it's burning??" - me. The light also stopped working after a week or 2 because it wasn't touching the connections right, and it would sometimes light on and off as I hit bumps.
If your bulb is like mine, when you slide the bulb into the connector, don't stop there; you still have to turn the bulb to lock it in place, and THEN you can put the connector to the bike headlight area and lock that in place. I would look at the inside of the connector before putting the bulb in to see which direction to turn; mine took a small bit of force before it would turn, I was afraid of crushing the bulb so knowing which way to turn ahead of time was a good idea.
Also don't touch the bulb was fingers because I hear the oils can blow the bulb out. I used a papertowel to hold it.
Hopefully that's all it is!
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Post by rosiemoto on Mar 15, 2016 16:55:19 GMT -6
It turned out a success! The one I received is way smaller than my original one, as in holds much less fluid, and the cylinder stuck out a difference direction, but luckily I made it work and it seems to be working great! SO satisfying when it all works.
I took off the old master cylinder from the handlebar first, then unhooked the hose from that weird banjo bolt, while keeping it upside down so brake fluid wouldn't leak out... covered my bike just in case, but none leaked out until I accidentally knocked it over. There definitely wasn't much in it though! I put in the new one, had to readjust it a billion times to compromise for its different shape, and put in new brake fluid, and here's where it got a little weird...
I couldn't seem to bleed it. Thinking back I think the bleeder nut wasn't loosening enough because it was just spinning after that initial loosen. So once I figured that out it let me pull the lever in all the way and then in the hose the old fluid went... was pretty dark brown. I couldn't seem to bleed it after that, but I probably just wasn't loosening the bleeder nut enough... but by that time the lever was already feeling good so I stopped there, topped it back up, and done! Oh and I was just doing it the "normal" way; I don't have a syringe or vacuum like in that video.
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