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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 23:25:22 GMT -6
olivertwisted, here's a picture of where I have my mic right now. This setup seems to work best for me. The ugly little white thing is just a piece of paper towel to help the clip not bite through the breath guard. Before this setup, I had the mic peeking out of the front of a cheek pad, so basically to the side of my mouth, which also worked great. Having it in the front makes your voice comes in louder, which helps drowns out background noise like wind. BUT, you gotta turn audio input levels down low or it'll probably distort. So there's 2 mic spots you could try that have worked good for me.  |
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 22:51:14 GMT -6
richardv, I'm not sure either. There's still the possibility for side mount if the helmet has the surface for it. I quickly looked up modular helmet pictures because I'm not familiar, but I would guess this could work:  |
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 20:28:47 GMT -6
Sure, I'll give you all I can think of. Everything here is my experience with just my scooter, but I notice it can be different on other bikes, judging from watching others' videos. Hopefully this list isn't too overwhelming... I'm known to go into great detail around here! All positions will probably take a little experimenting to get it how you like it. I personally like the chin mount after enough experimenting.
Camera at top of helmet
Advantages:
- Has a good "overview" of the road; sees slightly over the cars, like when you're standing on foot pegs.
- Decent view of people while walking around off the bike. Sees their faces no problem.
Disadvantages:
- Wind hits the camera and blows your head backwards... could get tiring.
- Can't clearly see the speedometer etc, bad for recording speed tests if you're tuning your bike.
- Camera's built in mic picks up TONS of wind noise at this position, even at only 5mph. Makes it hard to sync voice to the video.
- A little disorienting; camera looks like it's floating because there's no part of the bike in the view unless you have it pointed down some, which may give less view of the road up ahead.
Camera at chin:
Advantages:
- Good point of view of both the bike and the road; looks like how the rider sees.
- Wind noise for built in mic reduced, makes it easy to sync voice and video tracks. Still need external mic to be heard clearly over the wind though.
- Sees the cars behind you through your mirrors; good for "dash-cam" usage in case someone rear ends you.
- Can see inside cars if you need to get a driver's face for any reason.
- Picks up your voice and others voices almost equally in a conversation.
Disadvantages:
- Makes the helmet a little front-heavy, noticeable at first but you get used to it.
- May not see faces in a off-bike conversation unless you have it pointed enough upward, and especially if the other person is taller than you.
- Can block the bottom part of your view depending how you have it set up, but can be overcome with different positioning with mounts/adapters.
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 16:47:09 GMT -6
Oh what I was saying about the rider with the helmet was kind of a joke, but kind of not a joke, because almost NO Harley/cruiser riders around here wear helmets, I mean like 1 out of 20 might have a helmet on. I have never in 6 years of riding saw a cruiser rider around here wearing a FULL face helmet until that video... only sport bike riders wear them here. So maybe he was from out of town lol. Actually I just saw a couple scooter riders with full face helmets on the other day, which also surprised me, because they usually don't wear helmets either here. In fact, I think almost noone wears helmets here! FL law doesn't require it, and I think that's crazy. A couple days ago I saw a Harley with no helmet on a rainy day going 45mph like it was nothing... yet here I was going OW OW and I'm wearing a RAIN JACKET. I guess if he trains his face on enough rain drops and bugs, he'd get so strong he could survive a crash... is that the idea behind wearing no helmet??  I've got a cheap 10,000mAh power bank, lasts me probably between 15-24 hours total on this camera..you're definitely good to go! OMG your helmet looks like it has a perfect round surface for a chin mount, nice! That's like the most desired position for action cams, and a lot of people can't do it because their helmets have a point in the middle there. I have a camera mount at the chin and another at top of my helmet and tend to switch between them when I get bored, but I always end up back at the chin. Each position has their own advantages/disadvantages though. |
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 15:29:07 GMT -6
lol I was thinking the camera so we can get all your excitement.. I didn't know it wasn't running good, now I feel bad for saying that, aww sorry! I was wondering why Alleyoop was laughing so hard... but I see how that would be entertaining too!
I personally use SJCAM SJ4000, it's about $70 and does great for me after a couple workarounds. Such as I use a power bank to power it for hoursss (internal battery lasts 90 mins, not enough for "dash cam" purposes), and I use an external sound recorder for my in helmet mic to record voice. Just gotta sync up the voice to the video in a video editor. I don't know whether to recommend this camera vs anything else that's out there now, but I just know it works great for me after figuring out its quirks.
Here's a video of mine that shows what it can do. I had 2 different camera setups at different points of the video (top and chin positions), and also shows both day and night time.
I know nothing about the bluetooth setups though, never tried one myself, but I see them used a lot during group rides. Not sure how they get all the sound from it into their video...
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 5, 2016 9:31:36 GMT -6
Yay! I wish you had an action cam and mic setup on your helmet so we can see your first reactions when you go to ride it on the road. And you don't even have your endorsement yet??? Totally surprised me considering you basically rebuilt the whole bike. Is this your bike ever bike or just first scooter?
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 4, 2016 15:17:23 GMT -6
Yeah I had all the plastics off completely before... it seems doable after seeing it again today with more experience than I had last time/3 months ago, but I think I just need a small ratchet extension, because mine is too long and can't fit between the frame and the bolt. Without extension, the ratchet hits the chrome plate and goes diagonal/halfway onto the bolt. Harbor Freight here I come I guess!
I will most likely remove the PAIR some time afterwards if you think I should. It's just when I'm working in new territory for my own sanity I have to keep it one thing at a time because I get really nervous until I'm familiar with it. Though, after removing PAIR, is the bike street legal? That video in description says "for racing only, don't do it for public roadways. Emissions blahblah" Not that the cops are going to open up my bike to check of the PAIR is there..probably last thing they care about lol. Just wondering what the big deal about removing the PAIR is too... does it change your A/F mix?
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 4, 2016 14:46:06 GMT -6
I just went out there and did the spark plug gap to 0.65mm. Was pretty little tricky to bend the metal such a small amount without the right tools but I got it. This spark plug (Autolite copper 4194) was factory set somewhere under 0.6mm, maybe close to 0.5mm, so it was too short of a gap. So far the first 4 starts have done good without giving any throttle. Here's some pictures of my valve stuff. I know normally you gotta take the bike's plastics off to get in there, but this is just demonstration pics as I was only out there for spark plug today. I figured out what the problem is; my ratchet is too fat and is hitting that chrome PAIR cover. So I put my ratchet extension on it and now it's too long and hits the frame. If I get a smaller extension like half as long, it might work! Or is it possible to take off that PAIR chrome cover temporarily, get that annoying bolt off, then put PAIR back on?I don't want to kill the emissions stuff just yet. If I do something wrong with the valves I won't know which one was the problem if I also removed a bunch of stuff! I'll get back to you on that later though. By the way my bike shows "Exhaust Emission Control System: TWC, PAIR"   |
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 4, 2016 12:56:56 GMT -6
I was secretly afraid of that Alleyoop. The problem is I can't get my valve cover off because the right bottom bolt I can't seem to get to no matter what. Trying to remember why.. I think the bike's frame was in the way, and that emissions thing attached to it was in the way too. I'll take the bike all apart again soon and take pictures this time as to why I can't get to that bolt because I seem to be the only one with that problem!
I did try to adjust the A/F mix but it didn't seem to affect anything, which I think meant valves need adjusted, so guess I gotta figure out how to get that cover off first. Funny because I know how to do the rest, but I'm stuck at step 1, undoing the BOLTS. lol
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Post by rosiemoto on Apr 4, 2016 11:40:06 GMT -6
I think my bike is running a little rough, could you all help me out? I'm going to list the symptoms below. Please read them all before posting your conclusions. I ask of this because I currently believe it's all air/fuel and spark plug gap issues, but you experts may find something else wrong judging the symptoms.
It just occurred to me after measuring my original spark plug's gap that my bike has NEVER run according to spec! The original spark plug is measuring somewhere slightly OVER 0.8mm (higher than my feeler gauge can go). My bike spec says 0.6-0.7mm. Why does it give a range? Should I be averaging the gap out to 0.65mm then? I have about a half year old spark plug in now but never did the gap.
With my air/fuel ratio, the screw seems VERY loose, meaning even bumping it with a screwdriver turns it. It has no resistance like screws normally do. I could probably spin it with my pinky finger. Not sure if that's normal? I looked to see if it was spinning around during idle, but it doesn't seem to be, so that's super confusing me.
Here's my bike's SYMPTOMS. I think it's running lean, but maybe there's more to it. What do you think?
- Starting the bike usually takes a few tries or requires giving it throttle. It always starts up quick, but it gives a couple puffs of air then dies... this repeats until I give it a little gas during startup and nurse it for the first 3-5 seconds, and then it's able to hold itself together. (Cause: Spark plug gap issue?)
- If the bike is fully warmed up and I stop the engine at a long traffic light, it's a 50/50% chance that it'll be really hard to start it up again when the light is turning green. (Cause: No idea?)
- Before my bike is fully warmed up, it has very noticeable points in the throttle that cause hesitation. After warmed up, the throttle is improved, but I still feel it hesitates a little, and backing off the throttle a little from those points makes the engine smoother, yet doesn't change speed. I use Ethanol-free gas to help with this, as any grade of ethanol gas 87-93 makes it feels like I'm riding uphill all the time. (Cause: Air/fuel mix too lean? Needle mix?)
- It's been hot out and we suddenly had a cold day, and on that cold day I started up the bike and noticed it sounded different, maybe louder, like more "air pressure" was coming out or something. I also noticed the RPMs were higher than usual for the first 5-10 minutes of riding. I always have let my bike sit for at least 1-2 minutes before I take off, but I've never noticed this before. It was revving 500-1000 rpm higher than usual at the speeds I was going. It went back to normal after bike was fully warmed up. (Cause: A/f mix too lean?)
- (Possibly related) This one's WEIRD. 6 years ago during my bike's first winter (36-45F temps), I'd start it up, let it idle for 3-5 minutes, then try to drive off, but it wouldn't go ANYWHERE. A very tiny amount of throttle was all it would take (as in 5mph), but soon as I gave it more, it just returned back to idle as if I wasn't giving it any gas. It never stalled. Even WOT it did nothing but idle. As it warmed up more, I could give it more and more gas until eventually it ran normally. These days it doesn't seem to do this anymore but instead has that throttle position hesitation I mentioned before.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 29, 2016 17:05:03 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 29, 2016 17:05:03 GMT -6
I can't really find anything either. I can just deal with what I've got; this $9 chinese belt seems to be doing perfectly fine other than it not going to the top of the clutch.
Just sanded my 6 year old clutch's pads too, maybe that'll help with the low rpm roughness, because they were super glazed. I don't have the right tool for opening up the clutch yet, so can't swap out the old springs to the new clutch. Oh, the clutch springs on the inside are nice and yellow rusty by the way, can I shoot a little WD-40 in there at them? Might even change how the clutch acts I wonder.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 29, 2016 16:12:57 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 29, 2016 16:12:57 GMT -6
Dang...Gates only huh? I'm afraid to touch Gates belts again after what happened with their last 2 belts I used. Belt dust everywhere, stretched out within a week... not a fan.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 29, 2016 15:15:04 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 29, 2016 15:15:04 GMT -6
That's cool, and here's the marking on stock variator after a ride WOT to top speed. Will have a picture of Koso marking next time I get around opening it up. By the way I can't seem to find any 845-20-30 belts on eBay...?  |
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 29, 2016 13:37:59 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 29, 2016 13:37:59 GMT -6
I was out for the "stock test ride" while you posted that. At first I wasn't sure I could tell a difference, but I was letting the bike warm up before going faster. When I got above 40mph it just climbed RPMs really fast, and that was an "OKAY, YEP" moment. Koso starts climbing after 50 or so. But you're right, I could feel with the stock setup it's not stuck in 2nd gear AS BAD... maybe 1st-and-a-half gear.
STOCK (13g rollers, 108mm variator): 50mph @ 6.7k rpm; TOP SPEED 56mph @ 7.2k rpm
KOSO (12g Dr P sliders, 115mm vari): 50mph @ 6.1k rpm; TOP SPEED 60mph @ 7k rpm
Do you still think I need the longer belt after seeing it in video? With stock variator it doesn't seem to be a problem, maybe it'd sort itself out like cyborg said. But with Koso variator maybe I do need the 845? What are your thoughts? I'll go mark it now and ride it again before I put the Koso back in.
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by: rosiemoto - Mar 29, 2016 12:44:23 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on Mar 29, 2016 12:44:23 GMT -6
It seems the belt stays down in the clutch regardless of Koso or stock variator, but the belt may be slightly closer to the edge with the stock variator... not sure though! Here's the video of it all. What do you think? www.dropbox.com/s/5mllb0wmsowhw2w/belt%20too%20short%20maybe.mp4?dl=0N ow that I've got the whole thing back to stock, I'm curious how it'll ride and if I'll feel the difference right away, since I've been using the Koso variator for months now. |
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