Tell me if I have this right or if I'm still not understanding: So going from B to A makes the variator close and hit top gear sooner, but the belt won't ride as high at top gear, therefore LESS top speed?
I'm not completely sure I'm understanding it. Here's a quick diagram with how my 2 different variator fan pulleys look from the side (a bit exaggerated). A is the 115mm fan, and B is the 108mm fan. I started with B and changed it to A and my RPM lowered by 500 all around. If I understand, it's not because of the bigger size, but the new curvature, which causes the belt to ride up the pulleys sooner, therefore lower RPM everywhere. BUT, has this also affected how high up the belt rides once you hit top gear? Similar to putting in heavier weights if you previously had too light weights?
Ohh interesting. I actually have 2 of these 115mm fans, so after reading your post I put the 108mm vs the 115mm face to face and the 115mm does curve in deeper. Not sure about the one that's in the bike now. Both of these 115 fans only have a little "H" printed on them and the 2 holes are smaller than stock variator (had to rig up my own holding tool).
If I figure out if I've lost any acceleration from the lowered RPM I may take it back out, but I do like the lowered cruise RPM. Hmm hmm hmm...
Alleyoop, does this fan curve have any affect on how high the belt gets pushed up at top speed? I have the 12g Dr Pulley sliders in and I've always been afraid they're slightly too light to push the belt up as far as it can, and my usual max speed is 57-58mph. This is relative to the cheap 12g sliders I once had in, which seemed to act slightly heavier and always pulled me right up to 60mph. ** I can see this visually by revving it to speed with the CVT cover off; the 12g Dr Pulley sliders bring the belt mostly up, and when I let off the gas the belt jumps up MORE, close to the edge. With the 12g cheap sliders the belt went up and stayed up at speed and didn't move with deceleration. Just wondering rather than buying a new set of sliders, does this curved fan help give the same effect of heavier sliders for top speed... probably not?
Just redid a test now that my bike has been stable. The variator fan size DOES affect RPMs! Going from 108mm up to 115mm lowered RPM by 500 all around.
--These results are with Koso 115mm variator + 12g Dr Pulley sliders; everything else on my bike is stock--
My new headlight blew out again; the top half is blackened. It's only been a month or so. I was recommended to try 25watt bulb instead of the 35 but haven't had the chance yet. My battery has also been sounding like it's slowly losing its juice, but it seems to be returning to normal since the light has burnt out.
Does the headlight still drain voltage from battery while it's burnt out? I'm wondering if taking the bulb out will help relieve the battery usage until I can get that 25w bulb? Or will it make no difference?
So then I'm reading yes, I CAN use WD-40 on the switches? Not taking anything apart, just simply squirting a splash in and work the switch around. It won't fry my bike when I go to start it? I'm only so concerned because of some guy somewhere online was insisting WD-40 is horrible to use for kill switches, that it could cause fires or something.
Seems gently wiggling my turn signal back and forth from center position helped free it for now...it's actually working like new. Weird. I suppose the next big rain would kill it again though.
I used to cover up my bike cyborg, until twice I've woken up to my scooter fallen on its side, because the wind used the tarp as a sail and blew the bike right over. I've seen a couple other bikers around here using their covers and it too blows off after a couple hours. Oh and bugs, they infested my inside of my bike/seat when I had it covered up. Doesn't seem like a good option around here unfortunately.
After yet another good rain my turn signal switch and kill switch has finally had it. I can force both of them but it feels to the point of breaking it, so I think maybe something in both switches has rusted or corroded. My bike is outdoors 24/7, and this is Florida, so it's BEEN rained on.
WD-40 has worked great for many things on my bike, so my question is can I spray a little dab of WD-40 in both switches to free it up? I've heard conflicting advice on doing that, so figure I'll ask first to be safe. Thanks!
I actually just hit a very lucky 65mph (indicated) today. Video below. I think I might've been in a small draft without knowing it. I had it WOT of course. I think it was a draft/wind because I went from 61 to 65, and back down to 61 without changing throttle.
With the recent new chinese belt I seem to be getting lower RPMs at top end than I used to with the Gates belt. I'm thinking because the chinese one is exactly 20mm wide where the Gates was 19mm brand new.
I currently get: 60mph is 6.8k rpm , 65mph is 7k. This is with the 108mm variator FAN in. 60mph was 6.5k with the 115mm fan I believe.
65mph video: wobbly-ness is video stabilizer, because it was too SHAKEY to read without it. Audio is mostly wind noise, unfortunately my helmet mic wasn't on, but I screamed HOLY COW loud enough to be heard over the wind a little lol.
For getting that hard to reach bolt on the valve cover, are universal joint adapters useable? It wasn't quite what I thought it was after I got it on my ratchet, it pivots on 2 points.. I'm imagining this won't be easy to use, but hopefully I can make it work.
The loud clank is very rare, it wasn't in that video, but if I ever manage to catch it on camera I'll post it. Glad to know that's normal/good behavior for the starter though! I always had to do that double-press since I can remember.
I assume the hole that'll be left over on the CVT cover should be closed up, right? I would imagine the danger of bugs etc getting in is worse than the possible extra cooling effect... or...?
Is it possible to remove the whole kickstart assembly and ride without any of it in? At first I thought the kickstart's crankshaft was needed to put the CVT cover back on, but looking again it doesn't look needed.
Why would I do this? - Because my kickstart doesn't work, and I'm just not interested in fixing it at the moment, AND because I think my electric start gear is getting caught on the gears sometimes. This is because the kickstart shaft gets pulled out of alignment when I put the CVT cover back on, so I just want to take it off until maybe later. Any side effects to doing this or will all be good?
This might be related; here's a quick video of what my starter does 80% of the time... it gets stuck the first time and stays stuck with the lights dim until I release, so I release and press again, then it'll start right up. It also very rarely will go CLANG really loud like when you change gears on a bicycle while pedaling really hard ("BANG!"), so this makes me think it's getting caught on the kickstart stuff sometimes.
