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Post by rosiemoto on May 9, 2016 14:32:58 GMT -6
I went out and redid it just to be safe, and also closed the A/F screw all the way and backed it out twice and went from there as a baseline. So from that baseline I went counterclockwise about another 1.75 - 2 turns to reach highest RPM.
My idle was set at 1500 rpm during the adjustment. Here is what some different positions did:
2 turns from closed was too lean - idled 1200 rpm
4 turns from closed idled 1500 rpm, highest rpm around here.
5 turns from closed idle started going down again
So according to that my main jet is too small you said? Is that a big deal? It's still running smooth and good through all the throttle range, but I might look into the jet later on if it'll make a decent difference in performance or something?
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Post by rosiemoto on May 8, 2016 20:29:43 GMT -6
Oh no, I meant I turned it 2 turns from where it began. My question was in other words, "does 2 full turns mean it was way out of adjustment?" Now I understand you need to know how many turns from closed it is. The only thing I can tell you so far is, the screw was JUST sticking out of the thing around it, then after the first half turn clockwise, my big flathead couldn't touch the screw anymore... the screw was now inside and flathead was too wide to fit in. I managed to continue by ducktaping a straightened paperclip to the screwdriver and worked it until I got it turned enough. It was tough to do, but I got it!  I have a couple better tool ideas for next time, but seriously the bike's FRAME is in the way (again lol), so I can't fit regular screwdrivers in there. What I'll do is I'll take it apart again and close the screw completely, then back it up 2 full turns as a baseline and from there go 1/4 turn at a time in whatever direction raises RPM, then 1/8 counter-clockwise when I hit highest rpm like you said. This way I can tell you exactly how many turns from closed I'm at. |
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Post by rosiemoto on May 8, 2016 17:03:17 GMT -6
Got it, so highest RPM then back off 1/8th. I actually might've/hopefully done that 1/8 turn accidentally because I turned it a half turn counter-clockwise after the idle started going down. I think. Should I go back and make sure or no big deal?
I thought my random high idling was stopped after the valve adjustment, but it just took a couple more rides to show up, even after the A/F it's idling high at one stop light, then idling normal at another. My normal idle is 1500, and by high I mean 2000. Is it a sign of anything to worry about? If it's just my bike having a personality, I'm okay with that.
So I was 2 full turns too rich this whole time. You don't seem alarmed about it needing 2 turns, so I'm guessing that isn't all that much and I'm just being paranoid.
I am really thinking after the A/F adjustment I feel some more low throttle power, as in, pulling throttle at 10-25% now makes me go a little faster than it did before; not a huge amount but it seems a little touchier.
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Post by rosiemoto on May 8, 2016 14:33:24 GMT -6
The other day I did my valve adjustment and that's all good so the next step was adjusting my Air/Fuel screw (the flathead one on the side-bottom of the carb), and it took TWO full turns clockwise from where I started, to achieve the highest idle RPM. When I tried it counter-clockwise from the starting point, it went down immediately. So I put it back, then as I did 2 full turns clockwise it slowly went from 1500rpm up to 1750rpm, and any further clockwise caused idle to go down again. This is my first time doing this in the ~15,000 miles/6 years I've had the bike so I really didn't know what to expect. My bike was running fine before the A/F adjustment. Is that normal to take the 2 turns?
Clockwise is making the mixture more lean, right? So I'm being paranoid if I made it too lean, don't want my engine to burn out, but I did put it right where it was the highest idle so I should be good...? I revved it easy/hard a few times on the center stand and I couldn't really tell a difference, but I did notice it seemed to be revving higher with a smaller amount of throttle than before.
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by: rosiemoto - May 7, 2016 16:26:20 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 7, 2016 16:26:20 GMT -6
Oh okay so I won't worry about the weights anymore. Would you say the 115mm fan is the better one to use since it climbed higher? Even though the 108mm revs higher at top speed? Or do they kinda equal out do you think?
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by: rosiemoto - May 7, 2016 15:54:22 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by rosiemoto on May 7, 2016 15:54:22 GMT -6
Good question. After 40 wide open it doesn't really change until about 50mph, then it very slowly goes up. I remember the stock variator rpm would very noticeably climb quickly after 40.
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by: rosiemoto - May 7, 2016 15:23:17 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 7, 2016 15:23:17 GMT -6
Oh... wait, I assumed since the 108 had almost no edge gap and the 115 had a gap it meant they were about the same... no? (Must be because the bigger diameter or something?)
115mm top speed is 6700 rpm.
108mm top speed is 7000 rpm.
115mm cruises 40mph @ 5000 rpm
108mm cruises 40mph @ 5300 rpm
115mm wide open acceleration is 5900-6200 rpm
108mm wide open acceleration is 6000-6300 rpm
Between the comparison picture and these results, would you say the 115mm wins?
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by: rosiemoto - May 7, 2016 12:20:19 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 7, 2016 12:20:19 GMT -6
Here's a comparison shot of how the belt rides on both of my variator fans (108mm and 115mm). You can see a difference in how far the belt reached the edge on both of them.  |
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by: rosiemoto - May 6, 2016 18:19:59 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 6, 2016 18:19:59 GMT -6
Just did a test ride after valve adjustment. Running great! Here's the differences I noticed:
- Warm air puffing out of the exhaust pipe while still letting the bike warm up.. that was different, I only remember my bike puffing out air without a temperature before?
- The throttle is noticeably more responsive, as in no "dead spots" in throttle now. I can feel even little changes in throttle and it feels normal and "linear" for the first time in quite a while!
- The idle is about 500-600 higher now vs before the valve adjustment, and it stayed that way, so I actually had to bring it down. (Therefore using less throttle to idle the same rpm..hmm.. more gas mileage??)
- Coming to a quick stop (sudden yellow lights) didn't cause the bike to idle high like it used to. It seemed like my bike wasn't bothered at all about the quick stop, unlike before where it felt mad at me.
- Stopped engine and restarted it after a 15 min ride and it started right up. It used to give me a hard time restarting it warm.
So it seems the valve adjustment fixed alot of random things! Well considering how badly the exhaust valve was out of spec, it makes sense. My bike had symptoms of running lean before, but they seem to be gone now...
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by: rosiemoto - May 6, 2016 16:15:14 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 6, 2016 16:15:14 GMT -6
Thanks, so it's more an as-needed thing. A couple years ago I used to have a similar problem you mentioned of engine wanting to die; but it ONLY happened after a quick/emergency stop and it would either point blank stall, or it return to idle completely fine but idle high afterwards. Coming to stop signs simply it returned to idle no problem. Only other symptom I can tell was if I stopped the engine while waiting on a train or drawbridge, it would be 50% chance HARD to start needing throttle and cranking like you mentioned.
You know, about the power loss you mentioned, I swore my bike used to be faster years ago, but I figured it because I was 40 lbs lighter back then, so I didn't think much of it. Can't wait to go on a ride (in a few minutes) and see if it pops a wheelie or something...lol joking about that.
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by: rosiemoto - May 6, 2016 15:23:21 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 6, 2016 15:23:21 GMT -6
Ah I get it, thanks! Just did the valve adjustment, WHEW that was a 3 hr project, but I'm sure glad I did it because the exhaust valve was nearly FLUSH closed; I didn't have a feeler gauge that could fit, I believe I even tried 0.016! Intake valve was already perfectly at .004 inch, so that was cool to know that stays good.
Started up the bike, and it stayed right at a constant 2k idle the whole 3 minutes I had it on; seemed very smooth. About to test ride it after a late lunch break! I'll do the Air/Fuel adjustment next, but not today. I want to first see if I can feel any difference in the performance with the valve adjustment.
How often would you recommend to re-check the valves? Was it every 3000 miles?
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by: rosiemoto - May 6, 2016 11:30:25 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 6, 2016 11:30:25 GMT -6
Scoot appears to run pretty good, I would try 12 gram weights for just a little more UMP starting off and a little more RPMS. Also don't forget your 13 weights already have flat spots. Concerning your valves set them BOTH to .004 inchs, you can get feeler gauge sets at any auto parts store. But watch the sets some start at .008 which are for your bigger motors on cars and trucks. Or if you have a Harbor Freight around you: Here is one with the sizes you need. Alleyoop www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html, this was back from pg 9 on this thread, but I'm finally getting around to doing my valve adjustment today. I hopefully have the right extension size now. I'm going to set them both to .004 like you said, but I'm just wondering why so many people online in older threads are saying to adjust the exhaust higher than the intake? (example .004 intake, .006 exhaust) Is that outdated info to be doing that? |
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by: rosiemoto - May 3, 2016 19:01:59 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 3, 2016 19:01:59 GMT -6
Aww, makes me wish I could find some use for those 11's, but they were just too light. You said you do trips to FL every so often.. if you happen to be riding through my area we could make the trade? Honestly I don't think I'll ever be able to use a couple of the things you sent, so I figure they're best back in your hands.
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by: rosiemoto - May 3, 2016 16:33:38 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 3, 2016 16:33:38 GMT -6
Oh I'm mostly just trying to understand how it works. I was trying to figure out if I could avoid buying a heavier set of sliders if changing the fan gave the same effect on top speed. You're right, it's only a small difference, but I enjoyed seeing that 60mph every time I went wide open.
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by: rosiemoto - May 3, 2016 15:08:49 GMT -6
Post by rosiemoto on May 3, 2016 15:08:49 GMT -6
Here's how the belt climbed in my 108mm variator (B)  You say A gives more low end grunt, but wouldn't the lowered RPMs give it less grunt? Assuming no changes to the weights between A and B. Is there some other factor into play that I'm missing? |
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I have a couple better tool ideas for next time, but seriously the bike's FRAME is in the way (again lol), so I can't fit regular screwdrivers in there.