Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 19, 2016 3:50:09 GMT -6
I had a sym dd50 before and upgraded to 125cc but it would over heat and soft seize every 20 minutes and i would have to pull over for 2-3 minutes and it would start back up. so i had to go water cooled
with that experience, i am ready to get the 232 taida. was wondering if air cooled is just fine, or does it need to be water cooled for a daily driver
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 14, 2016 14:30:43 GMT -6
right at 6:26
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 14, 2016 13:04:54 GMT -6
i bumped into someone selling a taida 232 short block. but previously i heard dean martin (or danial martin) on youtube say that short block 232 is bored too far past the case and will cause oil leaks once it starts to run. Thats what i understood him say.
my question is, did i understand him correctly? i want to buy this guys motor for my daily driver, but i would hate problems like that
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 6, 2016 13:58:32 GMT -6
i seen it last night, i put it on kick stand with the filter off and i seen it when my girlfriend pulled it all the way
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 6, 2016 2:17:47 GMT -6
i seen a youtube vid about this guy's moped not getting full potential unless his carb slider is all the way up in WOT. but his carb was the standard style carb.
mine is keihin cv carb, so somehow the slider goes up with the rubber diaphram
heres my question, i seen my slider only go up 75%, how do i adjust this to make the slider go all the way up?
its not the cable, cause the cable is pulling the throttle 100% the cable cant pull it any further. just the diaphragm isnt pulling it all the way open.
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Jul 23, 2016 18:29:59 GMT -6
just about everything is upgraded and it pulls and tops out just like stock. just chugs up hill, tops out maybe 35 sometimes 40 on flats with the speed app.
50mm big bore kit (valves and cam)
exhaust
ncy cdi
ncy coil
intake
whopping 26mm hoca carb
hoca big manifold
variator 5gram weights
oil cooler (if that helps)
i think thats about it. i spent approx $1000 in parts. im so disappointed in the results. the only think really left i can do is a stroker crank and transmission kit, but im not going to spend that kind of money if its gonna give me little results. the jets are just right (at 100 main and 35 idle) , and the air fuel ratio is good. its tuned just right, it drives and idles with no probs
even my gf says she doesnt notice a difference. what am i missing? what more do i need? im not looking to race, i just want some fun horsepower and a daily driver
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Jul 2, 2016 16:03:27 GMT -6
I want to do the 50cc to 150cc swap. I swear I seen a site that sold the motor mounts but i cant find it. Anyone know where I can find the motor mount kit for this conversion? thanks.
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Jun 26, 2016 18:59:31 GMT -6
i have 100cc bore on my qmb139. the kit came with a keihin carb (unsure of the size but was included in the kit)
heres what i did, i seen a video on someone boring out the intake of the carb and polishing it. i said to myself wow what a great idea. So i did that, didnt hit any of the brass pieces and i think i did a good job. now it wont start. itll crank, and kick once and continue cranking and kick once. so i put my hand over the intake (basically choking it) and it started right up. when i throttle it itll die out and ill let go of the throttle and itll idle again. i put the stock carb back on, and it runs around the street just fine.
so basically im getting too much air, i adjusted the needle height, the air fuel ratio and its not helping any. any one can help me how to less air? or do i need more fuel? or is the carb wasted? thanks.
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Jun 16, 2016 20:29:39 GMT -6
first id like to say im not looking to race, just looking to have some keep up with traffic power.
after i installed a chinese brand 100cc kit on my qmb139, a moped shop i often go to says that taiwan parts are better and should go with ncy brand. he compared them in front of me and i see a big difference in the parts. i want ncy 50mm bore and head now.
also some time down the line i heard that if you go with a bigger bore you need a different crank. well i can only find a taiwan brand called hoca that makes a 44mm stroker crank. i cant find anyone selling taiwan cranks for this engine.
so heres a few questions.
-if i go with ncy head and bore, can i use the hoca 44mm stroker crank, like are they compatible? or i can only use stock or ncy brand?
-if i use the ncy header and bore, should i keep the stock crank, or do you recommend the stroker crank?
-also i heard you gotta stack gaskets if i go stroker, is this true?
and if theres anything else you think i need to know or just some experience you would like to share with me thatd be cool, thanks
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