Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Mar 28, 2018 18:36:52 GMT -6
I have a hose that is hanging and i have no idea where it goes to. I dont know how to upload a pic but ill describe best i can
its a black rubber hose coming out of the engine. located by the rear shock also right next to the rear brake cable mount
if i let it hang and i let it run, then the area gets wet with oil. I dont think it had anything to do with the engine because its in the rear. Only thing i can think of is, its a vent hose for the rear gears
I googled qmj157 and i see some engines have it but doesnt clearly show where it goes
where does it go and what is it? Thanks.
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Oct 23, 2016 19:04:32 GMT -6
Dont quote me on this. But i dont think the gy6 150 has a rear disk brake. Ive looked at a bunch of resellers for this engine and none of them come with a disk brake set up.
But im thinking the gy6 50 10inch rim would fit on a gy6 150 that has a 10 inch rim right? Same engine model, same rim, both drum brakes
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Oct 23, 2016 4:03:20 GMT -6
so i have the 150cc gy6 engine ordered from amazon and its on its way. i heard the 150cc comes in 10 and 12 inches or something
my question is, will my stock qmb139 rim (think its 10 inches) fit the 150cc? because the engine doesnt come with the rim so i would need to order that now
thanks
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Oct 7, 2016 15:18:13 GMT -6
my belt keeps breaking about 2-3 weeks. well i had the kicker case off the other day and i noticed the belt is wearing down fast, as if its being gouged (on the outer side of the belt towards the engine, not the bumpy side of the belt)
so i looked all around the engine seeing where is it hitting, and because its all black power in there, i could see easily that its hitting the started gear because the belt is so loose. the belt can be squeezed but i know it shouldnt
the belt is the same size as before because i only made my purchase from matching the numbers, i dont use cheap brand, people suggested using powerlink. the only thing i changed in that area is the variator which is now a ncy brand. but i never changed anything in the clutch or transmission area. i doubt its because the variator because it was made for the qmb139. can anyone help? do i need a slightly shorter belt?
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Oct 7, 2016 15:04:53 GMT -6
just for future reference for anyone with the same issue,
i went ahead and welded it at my dads house. and he said the metal is too thin to weld and itll burn a hole right thru, but he said if its already broken then it wont hurt to try.
sure enough (me being an amateur welder) it burned a hole thru, my dad took over and patched up the hole. and that was about a week and its still holding strong. i also took cyborgs advice on the brace
thanks guys
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 30, 2016 15:37:35 GMT -6
so, im planning on doing the 150cc swap, i have a qmb139 right now. i seen pics of the swap, i have a welder etc. so im ready. my question is whats the motor i need to go with? i have a chinese scooter, but theres so many types of engines, i dont know where to begin. im not looking to race, just want a moped that can keep up with traffic and a little more, but also reliable. i doubt ill put any mods if its good enough for that. i do most my shopping on ebay or amazon, and a budget of about 450. thanks
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 21:54:42 GMT -6
i seen on google thats theres high temp jb weld i think it was like 500 degrees. but was wondering if thatd be good.
for the welding, its not rusty at all. i think its weld-able. but again, wanted to know the cheapest and best idea. to replace itd cost 150.
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 20:52:21 GMT -6
sorry for another topic. but today i noticed my muffler barely hanging on the exhaust. its cracked all the way around, but luckily the line doesnt connect. i swear 5 minutes down the road itll break off and maybe hurt someone.
do you have any advice on how to fix this? dont really wanna buy another one. thought about taking it to a weld shop, or maybe using jb weld, you think jb weld will hold it and with stand the heat?
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 15:25:58 GMT -6
Yea the moped kick starts and starts and it runs. But because i have a stroker and a big bore kit, it keeps breaking the teeth off. So i only use kick start when im stranded.
But i researched symtoms of a bad starter and you guys were right. I bought a new high torque starter. So hopefully itll do it
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 10:23:04 GMT -6
i appreciate the advice of the car having too much power. i did it for about 1 minute. you think i caused damage? because after i stopped it still had the same affect so maybe i didnt do damage?
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 2:30:50 GMT -6
i really wanted to wait to finish before i posted pics, but i couldnt wait to show it off and hear some thoughts. heres a before and after. what i did (briefly, too much to list) -paint -boove theme -smoked tail, and blinkers -eliminated the blinkers -all leds lights -led glow lights (and white led for the compartment, sometimes i cant see in there) -bunch of engine mods -eliminated the rear rack -filled in all the holes in the plastics -oil cooler -temp gauge under dash board what i want to do left is -put in a taida 232 -put in halos in the head light -lights on the tires to spin -diamond aluminum floorboard i think thats about it, i cant remember anything else. what you guys think? upload picture
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Sept 29, 2016 1:47:52 GMT -6
moped was running fine, then i got home and parked, and wouldnt start in the morning like a dead battery.
it would crank once... then twice... and stop. my first thought was a dead batt. so i took my fully charged car batt and did a jump, absolutely same reaction. so i thought, maybe the car batt is dead. i did a jump directly to the moped from a running car (no other batts) and still same thing (also i can hear the car idle drop when i hit the starter button so i know juice is going in)
my second thought, bad relay. i put in a brand new relay. same thing.
what else can cause this?
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 30, 2016 23:55:02 GMT -6
I upraded to led blinker bulbs. But when i get to the third led it makes all 4 blinkers flash. I dont even have hazard lights, and i thiught left and right sides were separate. But anyway, i know its because theres not enough voltage, because it works fine with regular bulbs.
I see lot of youtube vids saying i need resistors to fix the fast flash after upgrading to led, but i dont have fast flash. I have 4 way.
Anyway, dont wanna spend money on resistors if it dont help. Will that be the fix? Thanks
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 21, 2016 22:55:46 GMT -6
I have a qmb139, the nut came off of the crank and the variator came off and ruined the threads on the crank. I tried to use an impact gun to make it go on and off to rethread it, but its beyond repairable.
Im going to replace it with the hoca stroker crank. Ive seen a few vids, but none say a list of things i need.
-Anyone know what parts i need for the repair? And -and while im there, what should i replace?
It has about 4000 and i think itll need seals and bearings. But not sure. Thanks
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Clinician
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Post by budthatsmyrealname on Aug 20, 2016 2:46:46 GMT -6
i go back and forth what ever im up for
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