Clinician
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Post by tylertech on Jun 6, 2011 20:50:18 GMT -6
Thanks gmoney, I will be checking Harbor Freight for the clips. I got the harness and it was not even close to the right one... oh well. I haven't got a uni filter yet when I do I will post up pics.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on May 12, 2011 11:17:21 GMT -6
Welcome to the forums and the 250 club Please do keep us posted and up some pics!
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on May 12, 2011 11:11:08 GMT -6
I'm sorry to hear you are retiring it, it really is a sharp looking scooter. I might be interested in buying it for parts I'm just a short haul over the hill in south east TN.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on May 12, 2011 10:47:48 GMT -6
I went ahead and ordered the wire harness. Hopefully this gets it up and going I will keep you guys posted. I had one more question that I searched and could not find, when it comes to mounting the plastics... I believe I'm missing pretty much all of the clips/screws/mounts to hold on everything except the noes of the scooter. Is there a certain type of universal mount kit I could buy? I wasn't sure if these screw on or have clamps.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on May 9, 2011 11:44:23 GMT -6
Also the intake tube coming off the carb is cracked all to pieces, looks like its rotted and I'm missing the element plus screws to hold together the air box. I was thinking about taking the whole box off and putting on a uni foam filter with a tube leading directly into the carb and plugging off the vacuum hoses. Would I need to rejet the carb to do this? This is of course after I get the electrical all sorted out just trying to plan ahead.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on May 9, 2011 11:38:58 GMT -6
I stripped off all of the heat shields and found several bundles of wire behind electric tape. It looks as if someone has ran every green wire in the front of the bike into one bundle of solder with one green coming out the other end leading to the ECU. Another bundle with every black wire soldered and running to the battery neg. There are several other places that are a hack job with cables shortened, spliced and changing colors along the way. I am looking into buying a wire harness and I found this one: www.scooterdynasty.com/wireharnessmainfor260cclinhaiyamaha.aspxIs this the correct one?
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on Apr 12, 2011 7:51:27 GMT -6
Right off the bat after pulling the rest of the noes off I noticed that the wires coming from the key switch are messed up. Has Red / Black / B/W / Green coming from the switch at the first adapter the red and black cross and the B/W and Green stop they do not continue on. I'm not sure where the horn is running since its not hooked in there. I didn't have a lot of time last night but it looks like the heat wrap is coming off and I'm doing a full trace of all the circuits.
Also there was no fuse coming off the switch the only one I could find on the scoot was the main fuse coming off the battery.
I traced the cable back from the water temp gauge to the motor (mine was red and brown so I think there are some small differences in mine vs the diagram) everything looked ok there.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on Apr 11, 2011 12:55:05 GMT -6
Thanks, I will start tracing down each circuit tonight and see if I can find that 2nd fuse. The main fuse off the battery positive was actually blowing when the wires were hooked into the water temperature gauge in the instrument cluster so I will start there and trace back and hopefully post some findings soon.
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on Apr 11, 2011 8:28:36 GMT -6
I would love to have some spares but I have to prove to the wife that its actually going to run before I sink much more money into it. Doing some research and it looks like it should get power to the electronics with the Regulator unpluged but not the CDI is this correct? The coil and battery are new and I tested the battery and its getting 12.5 volts with nothing on and switched the 30 amp fuse out for a 1. What is the enricher?
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Clinician
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Post by tylertech on Apr 11, 2011 7:28:44 GMT -6
Initially it would blow the main fuse every time the main switch (key) was turned on. I used a multimeter to trace the issue to the instrument cluster then specifically to the temp gauge. I unhooked it and now the fuse does not blow but still nothing is working, no horn, no lights no starter action.
I can short the starter relay and it attempts to start (don't have any gas in it at the moment until I get the electrical traced down and change the oil and antifreeze). Do you guys think the CDI would be a culprit? Is there any way to test it short of replacing it?
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Post by tylertech on Apr 11, 2011 7:24:10 GMT -6
Basement flooded during storms this weekend Finally got that cleared up and got some time to work on the scooter. Getting started the connectors to the battery were in pretty bad shape... the negative feel off when I moved the cable: Here are the new ones: The main inline fuse case was broken and being held together with some clear tape... Replaced it with a standard auto blade fuse: Secured a few loose ends and hooked everything back up, turned the key and the main fuse (new 30amp blade) blew. Time to start tracing it down with a multimeter.
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Post by tylertech on Apr 11, 2011 7:19:30 GMT -6
I recently purchased a 2006 Bandit UC250z, it has been out of service for a few years and is in dire need of some TLC. First thing on my list for this thing is to get it up and running, the previous owner said that it has a short somewhere and every time you turn the switch on it blows the inline fuse coming from the + battery lead. Here are some pics of the current state I will try to keep current pics and info up as I restore this scoot.
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