Clinician
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Post by noday on Aug 28, 2011 20:14:46 GMT -6
[/b]
it will make it work
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Clinician
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Post by noday on Aug 27, 2011 4:43:37 GMT -6
OK, lets take 2 steps back and evaluate the situation.
You swapped a new RR into an old system. If you connect the new RR as suggested by the available information, it does not function properly.
Why ?
There is now a stator RR mismatch.
looking at the old RR internal schematic will not help much ..... the old RR is half wave and designed to regulate both the AC voltage for lights and convert some of that AC to 12 V DC for charging the battery.
the new RR is designed solely to convert all the AC to regulated 12 V DC.
they are designed to do different things.
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if you try connecting the RR black wire to the black key switched 12V(+) wire in your harness, a dead short will be created and you will let all the magic smoke out of the new RR.
if you want to try it ? make sure both the red & black wires from the new RR are fused @5a to save the magic smoke
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Post by noday on Aug 26, 2011 18:03:42 GMT -6
interesting Bashan and I do agree with your conclusion. but and it is a big but.... I expect you are still getting the same amp/watt output from the new RR as with the old. ie: half wave rectification. this is because your stator is grounded at the centertap. to get full wave AC to DC (2 X the amp output of a half wave) conversion, that center tap ground is detached and insulated. (per TrailTech) a full wave rectifier takes a peak to trough AC voltage, splits the voltage, and then converts both halves to a  ) 12-14.5 V DC with respect to the battery(-). one of the big rubs in exploring the possibles of these components is the near absolute lack of any real documentation for the components. TrailTech has more info on its Universal RR than any other source I have found and that simply consists of a watt rating and a simplified wiring diagram guide for hook up. I wish there was a simple way to "bench" a stator/flywheel with different RRs and measure outputs to do the full conversion to DC I would follow the TT instructions as I know of no other guides to follow. trailtech.net/media/electrical/dc_conversions/ac-dc_key_concepts.pdftrailtech.net/media/electrical/dc_conversions/ktm_dc_conversion.pdfwww.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf |
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Clinician
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Post by noday on Aug 25, 2011 16:56:02 GMT -6
some GY6 8 pole stators are full wave. most are split AC DC half wave types. I think the full wave types use a DC CDI the blue wire for the TT is not used if battery is 7AH or larger plus if this actually works in Bashan's system, it has to be grounded thru the stator. DC needs to be paired, both a ) and (-) lead I do not think this is a direct swap for the usual stock GY6 RR without some modifications |
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Post by noday on Aug 25, 2011 16:37:32 GMT -6
if you assume ( with all the risks that entails) that the wire colors followed convention, then the 2 yellows have no polarity and this would be a full wave rectifier. if the wires were different colors yellow & white then you would guess that there was AC polarity ( as in the stock GY6 4 wire RRs) this appears more or less the same as the TrailTech without the blue lead. since that blue lead is only for small (4AH batteries to limit charging rate ) if this RR was made for an engine with a larger battery (?) then there is no need for a separate limited charge rate circuit. of course it would be nice to know what engine this RR is designed for. from Yahoo Shopping "Product Description: SPORTS PARTS Universal Regulator/Rectifier 01-154-16 Designed to rectify A.C. output current to D.C. voltage. Replaces all selenium (metal plate) and silicon rectifiers. Protects batteries, lights, and complete electrical systems. 12 volt 200 watt (or less). Replaces regulators used on ARCTIC CAT, KAWASAKI, RUPP, SCORPION, SKI-DOO, and others." from Scooter Dynasty yellow: to both leads from lighting coil black to ground red to positive lead or battery www.scooterdynasty.com/vrrectifieruniversalfor12vengines.aspxa pdf with that same RR listed www.fullthrottletahoe.com/fullthro/publicstore/images/catalog-specs/09SnowPages/09Snow%20243.pdflooks full wave to me. |
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Post by noday on Aug 25, 2011 15:23:45 GMT -6
thought I would just drop by and say Hello. This is a topic I have spent some time exploring. Black should go to battery (-) your stator needs to be modified to "float" the AC output. using a full wave RR without modifying the stator is most likely to burn out some of your components. the thread I am linking is a bit long but should explain things, there are full diagrams in the links in that thread. scooterrebels.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1581 |
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) 12-14.5 V DC with respect to the battery(-).