Clinician
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Post by 95sunfire on Jul 5, 2012 17:58:08 GMT -6
i'll have to pull body panels, i can't find the r/r currently i think its under the fuel tank, 2 stroke everything is in a different spot.
So your thinkin the light shouldn't come on till the engine is running since there is no on/off switch just a dimmer which i need to replace as it crumbled when i disconnected it. all the other lights come on with the key dash,tails,markers,etc
I know running the light direct will kill the batt. very quickly i'm just trying to test the rest of the circuit and the actual owner doesn't understand voltage readings and ohms test results they only know "my lights don't work can you fix them" so i need to show them bad parts before they will give money for new ones.
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Clinician
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Post by 95sunfire on Jul 4, 2012 15:30:15 GMT -6
i tried both no reading at all.
i pulled a jumper from a red strobe light (like the one on kitt from knight rider) that comes on with the key,to the plug behind the broken dimmer and i have high beam w/key on so atleast its legal to ride for now.
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Clinician
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Post by 95sunfire on Jul 4, 2012 14:11:30 GMT -6
1999 sundiro akita
i've been working on this thing for my neighbor. i've gotten everything electrical working on it except the headlight. pulled the bulb both elements pass an ohm test,with key on i have no power to headlight connector i removed it (about 6in long) all three wires passed an ohm test, this bike has no on/off switch for the lights just a dimmer,i moved to the dimmer the 2 wires leading to the headlight socket passed an ohm test,third wire i'm assuming should be power has none either with just key on or running.
Where does its power come from? its red/w y tracer all the other power wires in the dash are either red/w white tracer or white /w red tracer i can't find any others that match this one. i'm trying not to have to pull all the body off. plz help
Can i jack power from an unused 12v source to run the headlight?
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Clinician
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Post by 95sunfire on Jun 20, 2012 7:41:52 GMT -6
ok i now have turn signals, yay! new battery fixed problem, rechecked wires at regulator all seem to be right now, with wire hooked up 11.8vac on white, 12.2vac at yellow,13.2vdc on red same at battery from terminal to terminal, rechecked my homemade relay pigtail with flasher robbed from my truck works great,checked original by touching wire it still works, but the replacement i bought online doesn't (wire colors are different blue,red,black not sure if that matters)nor does the aftermarket one i got from auto parts store(i might know why it says electronic flasher on package) i tried it in my truck and it blew a fuse so it may just have been junk to start with.
While experimenting i found out my electric start doesn't work, so i guess i'm not quite done yet
forgot to mention i know my idle is a little high (turned it up a bit to keep it running for test ride) thus the reason for higher than norm idle voltages, i'm still trying to burn up the remaining fuel left from PO he filled it the day i test rode it,i'm currently at about 55miles and have barely put a dent in it. damn thing gets too good of mileage...LOL
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Clinician
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Post by 95sunfire on Jun 19, 2012 9:00:55 GMT -6
that's how it started,now I'm lost...lol the relay would buzz but no blinking,so i went to auto parts store grabbed a 12v flasher nipped the wires off my old relay added a couple connectors hooked it up and nothing. getting frustrated i got online ordered a new relay and got a switch while i was there,parts arrived new relay nothing, tried switch still nothing. started reading through library here and doing some testing, then the questions began bouncing around in my head (lots of free space i guess) enough history lets get to the facts.
2006 wildfire 50cc 4 stroke
372 miles at time of purchase
battery was dead when i bought it previous owner said he tried charging it but it wouldn't hold a charge never messed with it after he just kick-started it and everything worked so he didn't worry about it.
Checked black wire going into relay 6.5v
gray coming out 6.5v roughly
these being low i started looking around
started checking regulator
white at idle roughly 35vac will rise if the engine is revved
red 6.8v dc
green 0 assuming this is ground
yellow 2.35v dc
all tests are with engine running as battery is still dead,have a new one just don't want to install till i get charging system working.
Questions can i assume regulator is bad? what should the voltage at the white wire be? yellow? is there anything I've missed ?
PS i checked the switch i have continuity through,bulbs are all good,signals worked before if i left the engine run for awhile they would start working then just quit altogether, previous owner mentioned they tried to jump start it once with a car (he couldn't remember if it was running or not)
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