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That's simply not true.

Although exhaust valves increase in length some when hot, the expansion of other engine parts (like the aluminum of the cylinder head, for example) in combination with the thinner, hot oil virtually always make tappet noise more apparent when an engine is hot - not cold. And don't overlook that the exhaust valve's head will also expand, radially - forcing the valve slightly towards the combustion chamber as it rides up the tapered valve seat, and increasing valve clearance at the rocker tip a corresponding amount.

Not to mention that the intake valve stem is under constant cooling by the passing fuel/air charge.

Exhaust leaks can sound an awful lot like a loose, ticking tappet as well - but I'd guess the noise has a high probability of either being normal (if not too loud?) or caused by something you did/did not do during the recent valve adjustment (like maybe not tighten the adjuster's nut enough, or just setting lash a bit too loose?).

My $.02

I'm not sure just what the "light blow" noise would be, but as to the cam timing - no one yet mentioned the reason the marks don't align perfectly, and how to approach that issue.

It's common and normal for the cam chain to "stretch", increasing in length as it wears during normal service. This lengthening of the chain's overall length - given the location of the tensioner and it's taking up this slack on the backside (top) of the chain's run - results in the cam following the crankshaft later and later (retarded) as miles go by, and the chain wears itself longer in length.

So if there is a question as to which tooth on either side of TDC to set a sprocket that falls somewhere in between... the safe, proper method is to set the cam to lag behind the crankshaft (retarded timing), as this is the way it wears - and is designed to wear - normally, in service.

Of course, this is all assuming that the cam chain hasn't worn beyond it's service spec length, and is still useable.

Is the knocking "blow" noise a sharp, metallic noise? Or more of a cold misfire/backfire?

Bob

Umm... no.

The gloss panels are almost assuredly painted ABS, and the satin-finished, softer black plastic (like floorboards, rear fender, airbox, etc.) are most likely either polyethylene or polypropylene - both of which are very difficult to adhere paint to compared to ABS.

You'd be hard pressed to find carbon fiber bodywork on a $20,000 Ducati - let alone a cheap Chinese scoot!

Why is it forums seem full of people who drop in, answering questions that nobody asked, about things they so obviously no so little-to-nothing about?? For people seeking reliable, accurate information, such posts only add confusion - and sometimes are downright dangerous. If you're not sure about an answer - it's better to just not reply at all... I honestly just don't get it.

tawas - have you tried contacting Taotao USA about where to find new bodywork? It might not be too expensive -

www.taotao.us/index.cfm/contact-us/

Or maybe contact any one of the reputable Taotao online dealers who sell parts for the bikes they sell? I'd have to think they could get you the right bodywork without too much trouble...

Bob

Most likely, you have a bad ground connection somewhere, that was pulled or jarred loose when the bike fell over.

The entire electrical system - including all of the lights and the ignition system - all functions by completing an electrical path to ground (negative), which is all tied back to the battery's negative terminal. If that heavy wire from the negative terminal is either loose/dirty at the battery or anywhere it leads to the scoot's frame and engine, and also where that same battery ground goes into the wiring harness - it could cause the exact problems you describe.

A bad connection like that is like a kink or knot in a garden hose - the sprinkler will be weak, and if you put a second sprinkler on (like turn on the turn signals or high beam) - both sprinklers will get really weak (engine struggles, turn signals don't blink, etc).

So - carefully look over all ground wiring (black or green, I think), starting at the battery posts (are they both tight?) - look for loose ground wire lugs where they bolt to the frame and engine, any loose connectors, or loose pins inside the connectors, etc.

Look especially close at the heavy ground wire that bolts to the engine (somewhere) - both end's lugs should be bolted tight, not bolted to a plastic cover (like the cooling shroud), corrosion-free and clean, the lugs tightly crimped to the wire, etc.

Check the same stuff from the battery's positive red) side, too. Tight post, connectors, fuse, wiring, etc...

Bob

Here's an informative post by Bashan about the EVAP canister -

scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=techtips&action=display&thread=4410

Bob

curiousgeorge - don't worry about playing around with the idle mixture screw. The idle mixture setting has nothing to do with the bike's current problem - which you describe as idling fine, but bogs on accepting any throttle. The scooter falling over wouldn't suddenly change the idle mixture screw's setting.

As the first few posters have mentioned, it's probably a flooded EVAP charcoal canister (or related plumbing/valving) - try fully clamping off all of the hoses leading to/from the canister, and remove the gas cap... then see how it runs.

Bob