Clinician
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 19:17:41 GMT -6
Like I mentioned before, the glaze is CorrosionX. Love the stuff but it's a dirt magnet. Ok John I see that with the CDI but that was a first. I'm going to strip the red/black down and try it out, see if that has been the problem.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 18:18:12 GMT -6
I can shrink that last photo if it's annoying to do the horizontal scroll, but it does give more detail. Lemme know. (PS Any CRUD you see is a result of me going nuts with CorrosionX; I love the stuff but it's a dirt magnet).
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 18:10:38 GMT -6
The missing wire at CDI: important?: [ The connection, when torn apart, at red/black wire from stator... the two arrows indicating what should connect:
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 17:53:57 GMT -6
I read from both sides just to be sure. I just followed all the info. in this link scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=electrical&action=display&thread=997 and I tried it with two separate plugs and coils. Also, not sure if this matters but there is a missing wire out of the four-wire plug going into CDI. I can't tell which one but the wire is no where to be found and I bought this new so I can't imagine that it would suddenly make a difference with 2100 miles on the scooter.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 17:04:21 GMT -6
I changed from 25w to 35w and it made a huge difference. Even though I'm only maxing out around 35mph, I take turns hard and fast and I couldn't see far before. Now, I can see a good 1/4th mile down the road, at least enough to make out a deer standing on the side/in the middle of the road. That's a huge relief, to have some advance notice... almost hit several animals as I live in the "country" and ride a lot at night. However, I do notice the plastic bulb covers get noticeably hot to the touch, and they do dim at idle, but I keep everything up w/Batt. Tender Jr. My scoot is down right now so I'm flippin' the hell out, can't stand not riding. I ride every day... chasing down some sort of electrical or stator or piston/rings problem now. Guh.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 16:32:20 GMT -6
Ok great. Alright, I used the link you gave and went to testing. I'm good on the blue wire at exactly .05 VAC, but on the red and black, I only get 3.5 VAC. I know you said 1 V would be enough to spark, but I should mention that the red n black wire junction that you noted in that link is one I've had a problem with before. It seemed to come apart without having a simple way to go back together, so I essentially shoved them back together. One side seemed to have a clip, about 1/5th the size of the wire clips that attach to the top of the coil. The other side was a metallic tube, seemingly too large to allow contact when I shoved them together, hoping that down the tube/barrel (about the size that would hold a fuse, or just smaller), contact would be made, and it was, and all was well so I used electrical tape to make sure that connection stayed secure. So, now we have a history of a problem in that area, but also 1,500 miles of riding after its repair. Also, I'm measure no AC voltage at the red/black wire at the CDI while trying to fire. Has this pinpointed something?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 15:59:08 GMT -6
First time I laughed out loud all day, Bashan. THANKS man! If a young Raquel Welch popped out of anything with 20 yards of me, the last thing I'd be doing is sitting here typing stuff about scooters XD
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 15:42:01 GMT -6
looks like you have some emission items on that engine . I also noticed the boot on the coil has a piece of rubber pulled back . putt the coil wire off the plug and twist it clock wise , be sure its tight . bypass the emission system and see if it starts . John Sorry John, I have no idea what you mean about bypassing emission system. I did just resistance test both coils; my newer one measures .3 ohms across terminals, 3k ohms from terminal to spark end. The older one shows .3 ohms across terminals, but open from terminal to spark end. I had read that they are supposed to be 10k ohms terminal to spark end. And I had already "screwed" the spark end of the coil on tighter, just to make sure. (on the new one, it would also measure open I believe if there was no contact between wires/boot section at spark end).
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 15:10:08 GMT -6
Ok will do. All I have in this tiny town is a hardware store that typically sells them for lawn mowers and such so I hope they have my size (and I seriously doubt they'll have NGK irridium) or I'll be down til Monday night. Ugh. What are the chances though that two previously healthy spark plugs just fail? I better retest both coils first.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 14:54:21 GMT -6
definitely a spark issue.. Actually you're right; not getting spark at all now, where I was getting it from both plugs yesterday morning. Tried two separate coils and three CDIs (one is brand new). Well this changes everything. But the fact is I had spark when this problem started, so it stands to reason that this is now a 2nd issue.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 14:07:56 GMT -6
Bashan, I know that I get fuel to the carb because I took the line off and cranked it, and fuel dribbled out in a steady stream. When I stopped cranking, the fuel stopped, so that tested out the fuel delivery/vacuum, right? At least up to the point of the entrance to the carb. And I guess I need to go look at the spark again on both plugs, but I was pretty sure it was a crisp blue.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 13:51:21 GMT -6
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 13:49:31 GMT -6
Ok tried to jump with car; failed. Removed plug and put in old plug; failed. Only difference is now, the plug does not get moist or smell like fuel since I (lightly) cleaned the carb. I do not have the ability right now to get feeler gauges or a compression tester, so that's out. I read on this forum that if it blows your finger off of the hole, it's enough to run the scooter. Is that wrong? And I can't get to my float bowl area, if I'm understanding the anatomy right. The bolts/screws to access the inner carb have no heads. I'll post a vid that shows start attempt. Also, what is the big, fat hose that looks like it has something the size of a fuel filter on it but runs to nowhere? (It runs down along the right side of the bike, from an area where three other hoses run, all black, two large one small). Is that supposed to be open and connected to nothing?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 13:06:58 GMT -6
No haven't jumped it with a car. New, powerful battery, I could get 100 cranks out of it before it weakens... still use a car? Will try the spark plug out thing. John, cap full of gas in what hole? My carb doesn't open. Is the hole you're talking about somewhere else? I did adjust the valves, twice (using part of a soda can for .0035 or so) so you're saying open that back up and dump fuel in when a valve rises or?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 26, 2013 0:40:47 GMT -6
have you crank it over with the plug out sounds like you have flooded the thing when you pull the plug and it is wet with gas you will need to crank it over a few times to blow out the extra gas in the cylinder you say youn have cleaned and dry the plug i will say get a new plug as well No I've never tried that or even been advised to try it. I have two spark plugs that were both functional before this problem and that give good spark now. Before, when I flooded it, I could smell the fuel... some even came out (I guess through the air filter). Now, for the past 100 cranks or so, there has been no smell of fuel so I doubt it's flooding. Do you think I should still try to crank it with plug out?
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