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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 13, 2012 10:17:26 GMT -6
New carb, so enricher isn't the problem. They're supposed to be closed (rich condition) with no power, so that shouldn't be the problem. I've played with the air/fuel mixture screw, and that doesn't seem to make any difference. I checked the reed valve to intake and installed a new gasket just to be on the safe side. I even installed a new reed valve (forgot to mention that). It was surprising to me that the compression was gone after only 1000 miles.
Yesterday I tried ether (starting fluid) and that didn't make (or help) it start.
I really feel it's a problem that fuel isn't making it up to the cylinder- and the crank seals is about the only thing left to check...
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 12, 2012 15:59:37 GMT -6
I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of something to look for that I haven't thought of.
F-act 50cc 2-stroke oil-injected scooter, 1E40QMB engine.
Extremely hard to get started, but once it starts, it runs OK. If you shut it off, it will crank back up immediately. If it sits more than a minute or so, it's hard to crank again.
Compression was low, so new 70cc top end was installed. The arrow on the piston points to the exhaust, confirming correct installation.
Tank-to-carb valve was replaced just in case it was the problem.
Spark is affirmative, or it wouldn't run well once it starts, so the CDI and stator must be OK.
Voltage regulator was changed by customer because he was having trouble keeping the battery charged. A local parts house checked the battery and told him it was OK. I have not begun looking for the source of the battery drain. This bike has a digital dashboard, and the clock stays on after the bike is turned off.
Carburetor was replaced and jetted to 90.
Expansion chamber and silencer are clear and unobstructed.
Air filter box and filter are both normal.
Gas was drained and replaced.
I'm leaning towards crankshaft seals, but this bike is only one year old and only has 1000 miles on it.
Anyone have any other thoughts before I go tearing into this thing to replace the crank seals? It just refuses to crank without grinding and grinding on the starter!
Thanks, -Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 12, 2012 15:49:19 GMT -6
As long as the cam was timed with the piston at TDC, and the timing marks were aligned, the valves should open at the proper time. The only way the cam can be 180 degrees out and valves can open on the wrong stroke is if the cam were timed with the piston at BDC. EagleRiderMB
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 12, 2012 15:42:43 GMT -6
Main problem (DUH!) was cheap customer didn't want to pay for a Beamer CDI module (admittedly, they aren't cheap), but he found one that was mis-ordered at another dealership. They cut him a deal on it, I installed it, so all is now working. And a heads-up, scrappydog can't get any more aftermarket Eton CDI modules... they were one of the first places I contacted. They're out and have no source at the moment. Thanks! Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 6, 2012 14:20:38 GMT -6
Didn't work. The "generic" CDI module (I believe) must be an AC unit, and the scooter is definitely a DC arrangement. +12VDC on the scooter's orange wire. Blew fuses and would not work. Next time I have an AC-operated 2-stroke with a bad CDI module, I'll try it again.
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 6, 2012 12:40:34 GMT -6
OK, as it turns out- this Beamer III has a DC-operated CDI. The CDI module I have on hand doesn't specify if it's a DC or AC unit. The wiring on the bike is:
White/Blue to ignition coil
Orange to +12VDC
Black to Ground
Blue/yellow to trigger
Not sure where I'm going next, but hopefully, this will help someone else out.
Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 5, 2012 15:34:23 GMT -6
Sorry for the delay- busy this time of year!
Wires on the CDI are:
IN MALE 2-pin PLUG: Orange and Black (coil and ground)
Black with Red Stripe male AMP connector (probably stator power in)
Black with White Stripe female AMP connector (?) (kill?)
White with Red Stripe (?) (will assume pulse)
Can't find a reasonable (key word) CDI module for the E-ton Beamer III (the target
bike) and customer has agreed to allow me to experiment on his bike with this unlabelled
CDI module. If this works, will let everyone know. Bike is supposed to show up tomorrow.
Thanks for everyone's input. Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 4, 2012 12:37:27 GMT -6
Picky, picky.... Being a Hoca should mean (with reasonable expectations) that the aftermarket head should be approximately the same thickness as a "standard" head. If roller weights I ordered were only .2 to .4 grams off, especially at that heavy weight, I wouldn't have worried much and used them anyhow. What type of scooter did you install them in? For a 50cc scooter, those would be pretty heavy! (Most of the stuff my customers bring me to work on are 50cc) Not to mention most suppliers charge about 1/3 more for Dr. Pulley rollers... and my customers are so cheap their pennies have fingernail dents where they won't let them go!
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Post by eagleridermb on Dec 3, 2012 11:06:11 GMT -6
Changing the ignition trigger didn't fix it. I see that someone has replaced the ignition coil- with the wrong one. Although I doubt that would cause any issues, I'm going to see if I can locate an OEM Benelli ignition coil for it. It mounts wierd so I can't use just any coil. The one in it now was mounted with a wire tie. It doesn't use a conventional 2 stroke coil that uses the frame for ground. I'll check the spark plug and see if it protrudes- but this is a HOCA 70cc kit, so should have a "normal" thickness head. Will keep everyone posted...
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Post by eagleridermb on Nov 30, 2012 14:32:32 GMT -6
Just thought I'd pick other's heads for an answer and see what you come up with.
History- Benelli 2 stroke 1E40QMB bike with Hoca 70cc kit came in spitting and popping, wouldn't run well at all. "Little plastic cup" was not staying filled, so suspected (and changed) fuel pump. Still spitting and popping, exhaust pipe glowing cherry red (too lean). Drilled out main jet to size 90, now exhaust is cool, no more spitting and popping. Runs smoothly, but at top end, engine cycles on/off, on/off, on/off, like it's losing ignition. Checked CDI module by parts substitution with a known good module, same problem. Customer states coil was changed previously, so I'm not sure it could be a problem. The ignition module is DC, so I'm thinking it draws power from the battery circuit. Battery is new and is charging correctly, so I don't suspect the battery or stator/charging circuit. I'm about to change the trigger coil. It acts almost like the turn signal flasher is controlling the ignition, but the length of time power is lost is somewhat/slightly random, not really a specific time period. If anyone has any idea, please post it. I'm going to change the trigger and if it fixes the bike, I'll repost so others may benefit from my experience. Thanks, Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Nov 30, 2012 14:25:20 GMT -6
As it turns out - I had another Benelli on the repair floor, and tried the CDI module out from it. The original CDI must be OK, so I'll have to look elsewhere for the problem. I'd still like to know how to wire these aftermarket CDI modules, however, in case I ever need one! Thanks, Eagle Rider MB
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Post by eagleridermb on Nov 30, 2012 13:51:55 GMT -6
The reseller does not have a wiring diagram for it, referring me to "search the internet" for it, and searching the internet produced no results. Yep- they're the ones who referred me to "search the internet" (quoted above from original post). No help at all. Link is in original post to vendor's website for informational purposes. Thanks, Eagle Rider MB |
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Post by eagleridermb on Nov 30, 2012 13:27:46 GMT -6
Looking for pinout info on an 2 stroke CDI module. It has two wires in a two-pin plug (black and orange) and 3 loose wires with amp-style connectors (white/red stripe, black/red stripe, black/white stripe). A previous mechanic cut the CDI jack off the bike I'm working on and installed a 4-stroke CDI module, and the 4-stroke CDI is sufficiently *off* so the bike won't run properly. The bike idles great, but acts like the turn signal flasher is controlling the ignition switch at top speed! (Run for a second, dead for a second, run for a second, dead for a second, just like a clock.) Other than that- I'm at a loss for what's wrong. The carb was jetted wrong (fixed) and the fuel pump was bad (fixed). Now just the flaky ignition when the bike is running at-speed, and all will be good to go. I need to splice the above-mentioned CDI module into the wiring harness (I already know the harness pinout), but this aftermarket CDI module came with no wiring diagram, so I'm stuck. The original jack was cut off by the prior mechanic, so no way to just plug in the proper CDI module. (I don't have a jack to use to remanufacture the wiring harness.) The bike is a Benelli x50i, and the harness wiring appears to use standard color coding. The 2 stroke CDI module I have has wires hanging out with no molded-in jack. The reseller does not have a wiring diagram for it, referring me to "search the internet" for it, and searching the internet produced no results. Here's a link to the CDI module I need the pinout for: www.partsforscooters.com/50cc-2-stroke-CDIOn the box it says simply NF50 and a bunch of Chinese writing. Thanks if anyone can help, Eagle Rider MB |
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