Clinician
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Post by joethursday on Nov 8, 2010 12:09:37 GMT -6
Happy dance!!!!! Works beautifully. I have 3 Chinese RR, each with their own issue, this one works perfectly. Previous RR: Idle, no fan: 12.8-13.8v (depends on the day, literally) Rev 3k, no fan: 12.8-13.3v Rev 4k, no fan: 12.8-13.1v Fan drops voltage to 12.4 in all situations above OMP RR (took videos and will try to post soon): FAN OFF: 1000rpm idle voltage: 14.5v 3k rpm voltage: 14.7v 4k rpm: not tested FAN ON: 1000rpm idle: 12.6v (woohoo!!) 2k rpm: 13v (woohoo!!) 2800 rpm: 13.3v (woohoo!!) 4k: not tested, but voltage was still climbing. Finally!! A RR that can handle the power consumption of the fan!! Had one before (another Chinese one) that would go to 16v, but would overheat after 5-10 minutes and shut off. Joe - Check yours w/fan on. That's when they're under load. Under no/minimal load, many of the Chinese ones can go around 14.4-7v. Scooter off, i get about 12.6v. across the battery. Scooter on, idling, I'm getting 13.5-13.6v with the fan on. Same with fan off.... this is the same in idle and at higher RPMs, doesn't really make a difference. It may go up a .1 or so at higher RPMs, but really nothing. Went on an hour long ride yesterday, without a hitch.... |
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Clinician
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Post by joethursday on Nov 6, 2010 16:46:19 GMT -6
OK, and if you could, pleaselet me know what your voltage is across the battery when running. Mine gets to about 14 volts.
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Post by joethursday on Nov 6, 2010 11:53:52 GMT -6
oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.htmlIt's the one on the bottom of the page ? That's the one i bought. is the one you received smaller than the Duke's stock one. i could only use one bolt to mount it cause the spacing is different. Maybe my new one is just wired incorrectly?
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Clinician
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Post by joethursday on Nov 5, 2010 13:23:54 GMT -6
Hi Chris, if you have a fuse box like this located next to the battery:  then you will also have to check the connectors inside the box that the fuses plug into. They tend to push out of the bottom of the fuse block which results in an intermittent or open connection. Like having a blown fuse. The wires have to be pushed in from the bottom of the fuse block until they lock in place. Some people have found it necessary to replace this fuse block with a quality one in order to avoid opens and intermittent connections. Also, my scoot has a 15 amp in line fuse coming off the battery instead of a 20. Hi cruiser, I have the lance 250 with the same fuse box. I have a new issue with my scoot concerning the cooling system. ontrols something with the cooling fan. I took the fuse out and checked it, continuity was good. There is only a metal sleeve on one side of the the fuse holder. The other,where the current passes thru is not there. Also, I unscrewed the box and looked at the wires coming into the fuse box. There are only seven?? can someone tell me what's going on please? By the way, my fan works..... I don't get it, shouldn't it not be able to run?   |
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Post by joethursday on Nov 5, 2010 10:56:28 GMT -6
;D !! CHARGING ISUUE SOLVED !! ;D Thanks to everyone for all the help with this charging battle... I have been so busy with work, i just ended up taking the scoot to a mechanic who threw in the stator in a couple hours. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures. END DIAGNOSIS - BAD STATORFor others to test easily... 1. Disconnect stator/magneto from the Regulator Rectifier. 2. Start the scooter 3. Test the AC voltage between two of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. Repeat until all possible combinations have been tested. ( 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 ) 4. There should be at least 30 volts between each pair of wires. Any less, you have a bad stator. Yoster - That Regulator Rectifier you told me to buy was WRONG...lol. After replacing with the one you recommended, you remember, there was no change in the issue. Then i replaced the stator, still no change...HOWEVER the voltage was now correct off the stator. So, this stator was good. This had the mechanics and myself really confused. besides the harness, there's nothing else to change really. Especially since i assured them that the RR was brand new and would not be the issue... They took the bike apart and went through the entire harness, no problems there. Then i had a thought, scary.... Why don't we try the original RR with the new stator, since changing it didn't solve anything, maybe there was no problems with it.... VOILà , Issue solved. It was that RR you had me buy that sent EVERYONE thru a very confusing loop.... and me out $100 bucks and loads of time....lol. No big deal, it's done now. I do appreciate all your help, don't get me wrong. I do not mean to offend you in any way, But just wanted you to know that you cannot use the RR you recommended. HERE ARE THE BEST RESOURCES I HAVE FOUND FOR TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES
HONDA HELIX SHOP MANUAL W/ GREAT TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION mpsracing.net/helix-manual/index.htmlFAULT FINDING FLOW CHART FOR MOTORCYCLE CHARGING SYSTEMS www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdfThese are posted all over these forums, but just thought i put them here for other's help |
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Post by joethursday on Oct 21, 2010 12:43:47 GMT -6
!! THANK YOU !!
Talking with Mike From Lance was the BEST thing i could do.
He told me that i need to replace the stator, its crap. Just the reading alone being only .6 volts, and he knew. It should be about 30 volts just idling.
And he walked me through the steps to replace it !
GREAT HELP !!!! THANK YOU !!!
>>>Joe
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Post by joethursday on Oct 21, 2010 12:06:18 GMT -6
Remember that the stator output is AC volts. Also, the 3 yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier are input wires not outputs. If the stator is still not producing AC according to specs, you might also want to verify with this quick continuity check: mpsracing.net/helix-manual/17-04.html*Each yellow from the stator had continuity between each other w/ resistance @ (.9 ohms)*Each yellow from the stator had continuity to ground w/ resistance @ (8.9 ohms)This means my stator is bad... Correct? #2 - Why am i getting voltage readings off the RR connector if this is supposed to be the load side of the voltage?>>Joe |
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Post by joethursday on Oct 20, 2010 11:12:26 GMT -6
HELLO ALL !!
ANYONE !!! PLEASE !!! HELP !!!
I bought this Lance Duke 250 used with only 30 miles on it.
Problem, the scoot wont charge when riding. That's why i got so it so cheap. After about 30 minutes, the battery is drained so much that it won't restart. Riding for about an hour will cause complete drain.
I have replaced the Voltage Regulator Rectifier, and scratched the paint off the frame, where the ground connection is. Also, checked all the fuses for continuity.
* As before advised, I tested the three yellow wires coming from the stator. I get about (.1 - .6) volts between each wire. I was told that i should get about 30v between them. Someone else told me it should be more like 6 volts? Either way, I'm getting almost nothing. It seems there is no charge at all going to my battery. Am i testing correctly?
*I tested the three yellows coming from the Regulator rectifier. 12v to ground on each yellow. 0v between each other. Should i be getting voltages from both sides, (The stator, and the RR) ?
Here are the voltages across the battery when riding
*Fully charged battery, 13.1v
*Started the engine, 12.3v
*5-7 minutes warming time, 12.1v (fan is still off, revving the engine no voltage drop with higher RPM's
*Rode about 30 minutes on open roads and back home (15-45 mph), turned off engine, 10.1v
*Tried starting, not enough power
*Test after start attempt, 11.1v
*Started engine again, 10.1v
*Revved engine with no Voltage Drop
*Turned off engine, 9.9 Volts
*Tried restarting, not enough power
_______________________________________________
The previous owner had done some funny things to it, I know because i found the fan disconnected from the coolant sensor, and shorted together with a 30A fuse to keep it running constantly. I quickly changed that back, no problems. So, I have no idea why they did that.
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Post by joethursday on Oct 17, 2010 18:02:56 GMT -6
I have a lance, Duke 250. The lights come on as soon as the key is turned. THere is no charge being sent to the battery while running. Can someone tell me where to find a new blocking diode to replace mine? thanks.
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