Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 17, 2014 13:45:11 GMT -6
Good tip. Thanks!
Any suggestions as to what type/kind of wire to use? I was leaning towards 14-16AWG stranded copper, with standard plastic coating. Am beginning to wonder if the heat will cause problems, though. I'll search the forum on this topic as well, though. Someone has probably already asked this question.]
EDIT: From what I can tell, it hasn't come up in a direct way. So, please weigh in on what kind of wire I should use. Thanks!
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 17, 2014 12:31:50 GMT -6
Spark plug is brand new, so I didn't think to check it. I'll do that. The wires look pretty good, but some of the secondary covers are pretty worn out. I was going to get some high-temp wrap tonight. I could take my meter to the wires, and check resistance and voltages. Will have to look up what the coil should be, though. A lot of the wires look pretty old and worn, so I was considering re-doing them this weekend. Not sure if it's worth the effort or not, though. I'm going to be installing a 12v accessory plug inside the seat, and figured I'd work on the electrical stuff while I was at it.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 16, 2014 23:22:06 GMT -6
Update: I adjusted the valves tonight. The top was already at 0.003, but the bottom was almost all the way closed. I set it to 0.004. I checked the spark plug, and it looks fine. No black deposits or anything that would imply it was fouled. The engine does still burn some oil when it first starts though. I'm still hoping that gets better as it gets used more. If not, I'll have to figure out how to order the right rings to replace them.
I then started it and it seemed a little better. I let it run until the rpm's dropped, indicating the enricher had disengaged/auto-throttle was fully extended. I adjusted the idle so it was idling steady, and then started to adjust the fuel ratio mixture. I adjusted it a small amount, and then let it steady out, and repeated until I got what seemed to be the highest rpm's and most stable idle. The deciding factor ended up being the engine skipping. It would idle fine, but then every 20-30s it would skip. I adjusted it until it didn't skip anymore... Is it possible that the fuel ratio is the reason it would be skipping, or is there something else I should check?
Thanks again.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 16, 2014 13:25:13 GMT -6
OK, thanks Alleyoop. I just replaced the spark plug, so I'm hoping it's not fouled already. I'll check it when I adjust the valves tonight (since I have to take it out anyway). I adjusted the fuel ratio mixture last night, after I got it running. It got a little better, but I realized today that I didn't run the engine long enough, so the enricher was probably still engaged when I was adjusting. I'll do it again (properly) tonight.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 16, 2014 10:16:16 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop. I had found a similar post, but I'm glad for the confirmation.
I took the carb apart again last night, but sprayed cleaner through the ports this time. Turns out that was the main problem, and the scooter is starting, idling and revving now.
When I first got it started, it was burning some oil, as evidenced by the smell and blue smoke. I'm hoping that this is because it sat unused for a long time, but I'm not certain. Should I be concerned about this, or wait and see? What should I do about it, if anything?
It's also still idling really roughly, and it seems like it's mis-firing or something. I'm going to adjust the valves tonight, and hope that fixes the problem. Either way, I'll post a follow-up tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks again everyone.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 15, 2014 13:12:53 GMT -6
Great, thanks everyone. Since I have the scooter taken apart, I'm thinking I should also adjust the valves to 0.03. I'm not quite sure how to find TDC, so I'll look that up before I do it. I know there are posts on adjusting the valves, so I'll read through those instead of asking for hints and pointers here.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 22:19:46 GMT -6
Ok, thanks for clarifying.
I put fresh gasoline from a different gas station in it, after draining the rest of the gas through the drain hose on the carb. When I opened the drain plug, it came pouring out and then slowed. I then tried to start it, and gas came out in a steady stream. So, I think it's getting gas. I have a brief video of it, and will try to post it later this evening.
I have a can of carb cleaner, but didn't clean the ports when I took it apart, as it looked really clean already. I'll spray cleaner through pilot jet tomorrow and try to start it again.
Thanks!
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 19:18:51 GMT -6
WAS IT RUNNING BEFORE THE MOVE? HOW LONG WAS THE SCOOT NOT STARTED? Ok let check if the PETCOCK is flowing good(I see the vacuum line is going back and up) so that tells me you have a gravity fed system tank is in back of the seat. Take the DRAIN HOSE on the bottom of the bowl and put it in a cup and OPEN THE DRAIN and crank it fuel should come and while cranking fuel should keep on coming out in a good amount. If it just dribbles out not good. Alleyoop I'm not sure why you're typing in caps in those first few lines... As I mentioned in the original post, it's been sitting unused since last August. It did run before that, without any problems. Yes, it is a petcock/gravity fed system. Fuel does come out of the fuel line quite readily when I suck on the vacuum line that leads to petcock. I'll test the fuel flow through the drain hose when I get home tonight as well.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 18:49:26 GMT -6
If it ran before the move and now it starts and Dies that is a fuel problem. Maybe the Float is stuck and not filling up enough with all the movement that it went through. You can try and give the bowl a couple of soft whacks. Alleyoop I actually took the carb apart, and the floats are moving free and easy. They are also seem to be opening and closing the valve properly, so the carb isn't flooding.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 18:12:56 GMT -6
Check the VACUUM LINES FOR CRACKS, Was the scoot transported UPRIGHT or laying on it side? Open the fuel ratio mixture 2 1/2 turns from the closed position. Vacuum lines all looked fine. It was transported upright, and I've tried the fuel ratio mixture at 2 1/2 turns. It's at 2 turns now, but I can put it at 2 1/2. It didn't solve the problem before though. I'm going to get some new gas on the way home from work, and hope that solves the problem...
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 17:15:15 GMT -6
QUOTE ""Removed the vacuum line from the fuel valve and sucked on it. Gas came leaking out."" Are you saying that gas leaked out of the vacuum line when you sucked on it? If so you are running too rich and need to replace the fuel valve. If that's not the case then you might have something up in the main jet blocking fuel flow. No, I meant that when I sucked on the vacuum line, gas came out of the fuel line, as expected.
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 12:36:01 GMT -6
Here's a picture: ![](http://s9.postimg.org/m10mgr1y7/IMG_20140713_184644_2.jpg)
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Clinician
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Post by canerican on Jul 14, 2014 12:16:18 GMT -6
Hello,
I own a Schwinn Graduate 150cc scooter (Chinese made), and am having trouble getting it to start. Last August, my wife and I moved to California, and the moving company requires that you drain all fluids from the vehicle, so I drained the oil and gas. I haven't had time to get in running again until this week. So, I added fresh oil until it read about 2/3 up the dipstick (I wanted to avoid any chance of causing hydraulic lock), and put 1ga of fresh gasoline in the tank. It took a few cranks, but it started up. The battery needed to be charged, so I brought it inside and charged it overnight. I haven't been able to get it started since. It will fire and idle very roughly, but then die. If I open the throttle at all, it will die. Here is what I've done so far:
- Drained and cleaned the carb - I didn't have a plug for the gas line when I did this, but I was surprised to find that gas leaked out the line the entire time it was disconnected from the carb. The vacuum line was also open, so I'm not sure if this is normal, but it made a mess! - Also, the gas that came out of the drain line looked fine to me. The floats and everything in the carb were very clean and in good condition. The seals all looked good to me as well. - Replaced the spark plug, as it was old. It was still getting spark, but I figured it could use a new one. - Removed the auto-throttle and covered it with my thumb. Didn't make any difference - Removed the spark plug and manually cranked it with my thumb over the hole. It got popped out. - Removed the vacuum line from the fuel valve and sucked on it. Gas came leaking out. - Checked the air filter, It's clear and allowing air to pass through - Checked the throttle. It's also working fine and opening and closing the butterfly in the carb smoothly - Turned the air/fuel mixture screw from all the way in to all the way out by 1/2 turns, trying to start it each time. I left it at 2 full turns CCW after doing this - Adjusted the idle screw - Prayed - Cursed
Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong with this thing? I took pictures of everything before taking it apart, and can promise that all the lines are back where they should be. Thanks in advance.
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