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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 0:04:17 GMT -6
< I changed this post. Dont know how to delete one. I had first reported here "no voltage to red wire on ignition switch". BUT I retested with a surer ground point and the 12 Vs are there  I also retested the START button and there are NOT 12vs there. |
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Post by rosiemoto on Feb 23, 2016 11:59:07 GMT -6
Here is your partner in crime jumping the SOLENOID (ROSIEMOTO) (Video link...)Awesome, I'm glad my videos could be of use! Lol, partners in crime, this is getting too cute. I must be the dipsy partner of the 2; when I saw you post my video just then, I first thought "oh look, someone has the same bike as me!" ...then I realized  it's me. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 12:15:21 GMT -6
If no response when jumping the SOLENOID ONLY SEVERAL THINGS IT CAN BE:
What your doing is simply touching the SOLENOID terminal that has the 12volts wire connected to the battery and passing that 12volts to the other TERMINAL which the wire is connected to the STARTER SO IF NADA only a few things could be wrong or bad.
1. The THICK RED WIRE FROM POSITIVE POST of the battery is not connected to 1 of the terminals on the SOLENOID.
2. The Wire on the OTHER SOLENOID TERMINAL is not connect to the starter.
3. The Battery is DEAD
4. The Starter is DEAD
5. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GROUND WIRE FROM THE MOTOR TO THE FRAME(put a wire on one of the VALVE COVERS) then connect to FRAME.
6. The NEGATIVE post on battery also goes to FRAME.
THE START BUTTON all that does is MAKES GROUND and it grounds the SOLENOID so no juice should be there.
The Killswitch (WHICHEVER SWITCH HAS A BLACK AND WHITE WIRE IS YOUR KILLSWITCH).
Do you see a BLACK AND WHITE WIRE that is the KILLWIRE and it goes to the TOP slot on the 2 plug of the CDI. Also check the swivel switch that you said it was red at one time or another for a BLACK AND WHITE wire.
If on the right hand grip the switch system is ONE SWIVEL ON TOP, ONE in the MIDDLE and ONE low.
The Top SWIVEL would be your KILLSWITCH the MIDDLE for SOME LIGHTS and the LOW is your START BUTTON.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 14:34:00 GMT -6
You should get a 12volt light tester to check wires that should have voltage they are cheap and makes checks fast and easy. You can find them at any hardware store or lowes home depot etc.. Alleyoop  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 16:07:38 GMT -6
Ha! rosiemoto , Don't sell yourself too short here Rosie. It can get quite "Dipsy" where I sit!  Alleyoop , I'll be checking over all of that , right away and post back. Initially, I can tell you that the black and white wire IS on this switch and it is the one that I was operating as the "Kill" switch. The SWIVEL switch which, was once red, operates effectively as the hazard lights.  The black and white wire does reappear here, at what I believe to be the CDI ?  Another thing that has crossed my mind, aside from the things you've listed that I will look into is that the "Rust converter" that I used on the frame may possibly have created too much of a barrier for ground to occur at the rectifier mount point, where it grounds to the frame? That is also where the battery ground ends and the frame to valve cover ground begins (You may recall that, when I was disassembling my fan cover months ago, one of its bolts that had a ground to it, had broken off. So at that point you had guided me to route that ground to the valve cover so, it's already there. So, the battery ground goes to the rectifier mount THEN to the valve cover). There is also a GREEN wire at that rectifier mount point and I'm unsure what it leads to (It goes into the large harness, headed to the front of the bike and I don't see where it surfaces). I figure, it's worth taking a wire wheel to the frame under the rectifier to expose that surface better and perhaps put a very light film of dielectric grease there.  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 16:09:01 GMT -6
I DO have one of those! Good idea, I'll dig it out !
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 16:50:56 GMT -6
The CDI should look like this:  That round covered piece looks like the COIL, and the wire looks like yellow and black if so you should see a THICK WIRE GOING TO THE SPARK PLUG. |
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Post by cyborg on Feb 23, 2016 16:59:37 GMT -6
All ground points must be clean raw metal
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 17:20:09 GMT -6
WOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Everything was routed correctly as you instructed, Alleyoop . I cleaned up the surfaces and contacts and tried again and CONTACT! Had you not guided me through confirming how everything should be routed, I would never have suspected a bad ground and would still be perplexed. YOU da MAN !!!! I say, YOU da MAN !!!!  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 17:21:44 GMT -6
YUP! LOL! I failed to even SEE the spark plug wire coming out of the bottom of that coil! I bent under the frame and there it is! Lol!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:06:18 GMT -6
Ok. Still troubleshooting though. When I try at the start switch, I still get nada. Gonna read this thread again and see if the answer is there. One of the switches is bad, I suspect?
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 18:13:13 GMT -6
Sorry I was out to DINNER(SALAD, BBQ RIBS, BAKED POTATO and some Greens) YUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMY BURP!!
OK, squeeze the brakes and tape it then go to the SOLENOID and with your 12v light tester PROBE the GREEn and YELLOW wire going the SOLENOID-- IT SHOULD HAVE VOLTAGE. If it does then the only thing would be the RED AND YELLOW(GROUND WIRE FROM THE START BUTTON) so you can check for continuity while pressing the START BUTTON. The start button should be grounded(usually green wire) then when you push it it makes contact with the RED YELLOW TO GROUND THE SOLENOID.
Alleyoop
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:27:54 GMT -6
No apology necessary, other than that we weren't there to partake! Okay, will do the above and report back. I did find the CDI buried under the wiring cluster. The black/white wire is there, CHECK!  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 18:29:11 GMT -6
So it worked when you jumped the SOLENOID.
Now if the above what I wrote all checks out you can rig a ground wire to the RED YELLOW at the SOLENOID squeeze the brake and just touch the other end of the wire to GROUND and see if it activates the SOLENOID if it does not and it only works when you jump it then THE SOLENOID IS BAD.
IF IT ACTIVATES the solenoid when you ground it then the problem is up by the switch.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:49:05 GMT -6
Okay YES, with ignition key ON = both sides of green/yellow have voltage . Ignition key off = both sides of green/yellow have no voltage. I also tested with multimeter and both sides read 9.3 volts.
Both , Key off OR on, The red /yellow wire at the back of the start button reads continuous to both sides of the red/yellow at the solenoid BEFORE I even press the start switch.
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I also retested the START button and there are NOT 12vs there.
it's me.
..BAD TO THE BONE..
