stranded, temporarily anyway. By olivertwisted (Read 6,344 times)

[Alleyoop]

That is a magnet for the PICKUP coil which is that black thing. When that BLACK thing(passes over the raised magnet it sets some juice to the PICK UP COIL which in turn sends that to the CDI to tell it to RELEASE the BUILT UP VOLTAGE to the COIL to fire the plug. So by all means clean it up take the rust off.

I cannot see the TIMING marks but AT TOP DEAD CENTER the CASE pointer shcould point to the "T" or the line before the "T" NOT BETWEEN the "T" and "F" mark.

To check for top dead center you can stick a straw into the plug hole and rotate the motor and find when the straw comes out the furthest that is at TOP DEAD CENTER.
Alleyoop

[cyborg]

Still got it open?,,,, see if the pickup coil has a bunch of fuzzy rust on it,,,I would bronze wire brush everything in there,,,blow it all down with compressed air,,,,

[olivertwisted]

Ok, but I can initially say that my marks under the valve cover are lined up for the valve setting but, these don't appear to be.See how mine are a bit different?


I'm in there cleaning up the best I can. I don't have compressed air but will take the pickup coil off to clean its contacts too.

[Alleyoop]

Best way to tell if the timing is off by say ONE CHAIN is to bring the piston up to top dead center, use a straw. THEN LOOK at the timing marks then look at the alignment on the cam then you will know if the cam is off by say one link on the chain.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

Would it surprise you if I told you that no matter how hard I try to have it in there at the right angle, my straw just keeps getting PINCHED in there?!
Im afraid to ask what IF it is off by a link ?!

[olivertwisted]

I was finally able to get a better shot of my timing marks . Is that my case marking there? If so, mine has not lined up with the mark right next to the "T" when my sprocket is lined up. The straw trick wouldn't work for me, the piston just "sammiches" it. Gawd, I try ! How would the straw get pushed outward if the piston travels perpendicular?

[olivertwisted]

CACA!
I think I found my answer to the above here and I don't think it's good news...
scooterdoc.proboards.com/post/109396/thread

The absolute last thing I wanted to have to do is to undress the plastic from this scooter again.Please , please, Alley, tell me it AINT so , and that I'm just wrong? Lol!

[Alleyoop]

It is a little advanced if the cam is lined up and the timing is pointing there. But that does not mean you have to change it But they do run hotter when advanced because they are firing sooner and producing a little more power at lower rpms. Timing retards as the revs go up to make it easier on the motor at higher rpms.

So you could leave it that way if it starts good.

BY THE WAY how were the VALVES? Where they off or not?
Alleyoop

[Alleyoop]

How where the Valves, ok or tight?

[2stroked]

Someone pull his string hes not talking!!

[olivertwisted]

Yes, it has always started well. The exhaust valve was off still. So, I had some heat trapped in there !

Sorry, I set off my sciatica while adjusting the valves upside down through the top access panel so, I had to get away today to keep myself from working on it. So, I haven't started it since adjusting the valves. I will probably start it up tomorrow(Wednesday) and report but I can't do any work until my back agrees, may be a couple days nursing it.

So, Ive looked at other threads about "Jumped teeth". If I decide to set the teeth for correct timing, is it just a matter of setting TDC, marking the chain and sprocket, and then (This is the part I'm most unsure of) moving the cam and the sprocket to re-orient the teeth? I imagine, the tensioner must be bad to have allowed them to jump in the first place too ?
 
By the way, 2stroked , SHE wasn't talkin'

[2stroked]

OOPS,!!!?

My bad. Get feeling better. Sciatica is excruciating. I know. The crawling firey burning is the worst.

Hopefully you get feeling good enough to work on it in a day or two.

[Alleyoop]

Bummer about your back, those are painful, so rest up and get better and don't rush it.

Now about TDC, Best way is take the plug out so it is easy to turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE. Ok we know that the BUMP on the flywheel when it goes under the PICKUP COIL is when it FIRES THE PLUG WHICH means the piston is near the TOP.

Knowing that, rotate it so you see the BUMP on the flywheel about to come under the PICKUP COIL, now stick the STRAW in the plug hole now it will NOT SMASH YOUR STRAW and you can see when it moves out the furthest. NOW at this time IF the CAM is NOT aligned meaning the two holes and the big hole are not visible MEANS you are on the EXHAUST STROKE so TAKE THE STRAW OUT and rotate the fly wheel one more time to get it on the COMPRESSION STROKE and again when the bump is near stick the straw in the hole and now you can play with the fly wheel back and forth to find when the piston is all the way up watching the straw.

Now take a picture of the FLYWHEEL TIMING MARKS and a PICTURE OF THE CAM SPROCKET to see if the timing is off.

To get it back in time IF NEEDED,

1. The 4 nuts holding the Valves assembly have to come off.
2. The Cam Chain Tensioner, the tension has to be released or you can take it out.
3. Take the Chain off the Cam Sprocket.
4. Set the Cam back in aligned.
5. Put the Chain back on WITH OUT THE FLYWHEEL MOVING.
6. Put the NUTS back on 17-21 ft lbs.
7. RE-CHECK your valve gaps
Button it up.
Alleyoop

[2stroked]

^^^^^^^He makes it sound so easy huh??? It is really, if you pay attention to what you are doing.

[olivertwisted]

Thanks for the sentiments and encouragement, both of you. ☺

Aha,  good thinkin Alley,  working backward to position the straw better,  first.
 
Lol,  yes 2stroked,he lays it out so well,  it sounds easy. If there's one thing I've found, it's that nothing has been particularly easy on this bike. But, alley and the others here have kept me able to even proceed,  for absotively sure!

I probably will let my back (AND Alley, lol) rest another day today then hopefully, line her  up  tomorrow.