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Post by styxfan on May 6, 2015 12:56:16 GMT -6
I never found a source for the bushings, so I repaired them by using an idustrial bonding agent. I punched out the inner sleeve, then drilled out some of the rubber so it was slightly larger than the OD of the inner sleeve. I then centered the inner sleeve and filled the opening around it completely with the indutrial adhesive (I used Lord 403). It bonds to the OD of the metal inner sleeve and the rubber and dries solid. It's held up nicely so far. I've put about 150 miles on the scoot since the repair and haven't noticed any problems.
I know you can also make your own bushing using a rubber compound that can be purchased at McMaster. So thats an option too.
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Post by styxfan on Mar 28, 2015 9:58:51 GMT -6
Adjusted the valves (.004 in/.006 exhaust) and still had stalling issues with the new carb. Put the old carb back on and after a few adjustments it will start, idle and accelerate without stalling. Took both carbs apart this morning and noticed that the main jet in the replacement carb was smaller (110) than the jet in my original carb (116). Get it wasn't getting enough gas after all. Sadly the weather here will barely reach 30 today, so I haven't put the original back in yet, but I feel pretty good that after I get it in and make a few adjustments, It should be good to go. Seller won't let me return the new carb since it's been installed, so I guess this was a $40 lesson. Really not to upset about it though, as I learned a lot during the whole process. Highest thanks to Alleyoop, I appreciate all your input and guidance. Next issue I have that I can't figure out, I'm coming to you first. storage.proboards.com/3059616/i/YI0E8joKBIpZl0tLyyi7.gifjavascript:addS("http://www.jr-richscooterdoc.com/XsmileP/X10A.gif","%20 %20")
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Post by styxfan on Mar 24, 2015 13:32:11 GMT -6
Alrighty, Got it. I may just put my old carb back on after the valve adjust and see how it is. Like you said, maybe it was the valves all along. I'll up date the thread after the weekend.
Thanks again, keeping my fingers crossed!
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Post by styxfan on Mar 24, 2015 12:14:46 GMT -6
Does anyone know what the valve nut (for tightening the valve after setting the gap) size is and is the top squared or does it have a slot (like for a flathead screw driver) on the mc-54-250B valves?
I have access to a valve wrench, but I'd like to confirm that it's the right size.
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Post by styxfan on Mar 24, 2015 6:38:21 GMT -6
Thanks for all the info. I certainly have a few things to check this weekend. I've seen that the exhaust valve can be a pain to get to, so not looking forward to that, but will give it a try.
I'll update the thread after I've had the opportunity to work on it again.
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 20:46:25 GMT -6
Long story short, the old carb had some idling and stalling issues as well (no matter were the A/F and or idle was set, it would stall when slowing down or idling. Basically opposite of what this new one is doing). I had someone work on it for me, but couldn't solve the problem, so basically it was cheaper to try a new carb than to keep paying them their labor rate.
Honestly I figured it would be easiest just to put a new carb in. I guess I was wrong.
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 19:40:05 GMT -6
I still have my old carb so maybe its possible to compare the jets if they are not marked (or are they too small to tell)?
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 16:54:16 GMT -6
About 5400 miles on it currently and last time valves were adjusted was July 2012 at 2300 miles.
Don't want to sound naive but, why would a replacement carb have larger jets than the original?
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 16:44:54 GMT -6
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 14:27:25 GMT -6
"Now to find out if the PILOT jet is to small or to big test it out like this: Get it to IDLE then start turning it clockwise IT SHOULD KILL the motor when there is about 1 full turn before it is all the way closed."
start turning it clockwise Turning what, the A/F adjustment?
Foam air cleaner was cleaned prior to all this.
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 13:55:34 GMT -6
It has the standard air box with foam filter on it. If I really slowly throttle it up, it may catch, but usually not.
I tried posting pics, but I get an error (could be our firewall at work) so I can try later on from home
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 12:10:06 GMT -6
I've checked all hose condition and connections and all looks good. Beside the vac hoses, where else could I have an air leak? The new carb is an exact replacement of the original, but how would I determine if the jets are too small?
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Post by styxfan on Mar 23, 2015 8:25:58 GMT -6
Please Help...
I was having issues with my MC-54-250B not being able to idle (unless it was set at 2K+) so I decided to replace the carb.
Now that the new carb is in, the engine will start and it will idle nicely between 1-1.5K. The problem I'm having now is whenever I give it gas, the engine stalls.
I've checked all hose condition and connections and all looks good. I tried raising the idle and even at a higher idle as soon as I twist the throttle, it dies. I have tried small adjustments of the A/F and no difference. I have even tried the A/F adjustment from all the way closed to all open and every point in between and still she stalls out any time I twist the throttle.
This is so frustrating. It will start and idle fine, but once I give it some gas it stalls out.
Could it be the fuel pump? I did manually check it and it seemed to work OK. Could the fuel pump be intermittent? Is that a thing?
Sad to say I am not an "engine guy" so maybe I'm missing something obvious.
Any ideas as to why I'm stalling out?
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Post by styxfan on Mar 19, 2015 10:04:31 GMT -6
Has anyone repainted their ride, if so, what type of paint do you recommend and does it require a top coat?
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Post by styxfan on Mar 12, 2015 7:26:56 GMT -6
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