motobravo euro classic 150cc help with bottom hose on carb! By chinacrapper (Read 4,470 times)

[chinacrapper]

Here is where all the oil came out, yes that tube was full so a lot went in, found out the pair or egr whatever it is hose had cracked thus I assume it caused vacuum which made the oil suck into the little box in front on the air cleaner. I don't think the filter got any oil in it have to leave for the day but the next plan is to make a block off plate for the stupid pair or egr crap. 

[chinacrapper]

Well made a block plate for the pair or egr crap, got it all back together runs fine but looked and the oil went into that box again like a mother fu$&##!

[Alleyoop]

I don't know what you plugged up BUT THAT HOSE is the VALVE COVER VENT, has nothing to do with EGR or PAIR whatever you have and or tookd off and plugged. Reason oil still coming out is because in that little box where the hose attachs to on the AIR FILTER it probably has a FOAM filter and it is CLOGGED. The VALVE COVER VENT HOSE HAS TO VENT.
Alleyoop

IS THIS WHERE THAT HOSE IS CONNECTED TO? IF SO take it off the air box and put a fuel filter on the end of it and zip tie it higher than the valve cover. ALSO plug up the connector by the air box.

[chinacrapper]

My valve vent is the one like in your pic alleyoop and the line goes into the front of airbox where the oil is leaking out. If you look at my pic above it's the nipple without the hose on it that goes to my valve cover. It also had a small vac line leading into the inlet where you push the carb into place and I just plugged that with a screw. I will do as you suggested with the fuel filter. Thanks

[rks]

Sounds like engine oil is over full to me.... or....constant, WOT operation will cause higher crankcase pressures, and in turn push more oil out through the vent tube.....or.....engine is worn out causing excessively high crankcase pressures (doubt this is it with the miles you stated).....Bob

You might also check that the baffle plate hasn't been removed

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[Bashan]

Take the hose from the valve cover and tie it off high with a filter. Plug the opening where that hose plugs into the airbox system. Plug the vac line that ran to the manifold. Put a vac cap on the nipple that the vac hose ran to. I did this to my Fashion which has a similar system. You don't need it, it's junk. Rich

[chinacrapper]

rks, the oil is not over full I checked it before riding it. I'm going to try the filter on the valve cover hose this weekend and cap off those other things that have been mentioned. Will update once completed. Thank all

[chinacrapper]

OK guys I installed a fuel filter into the crank case vent tube and capped off the other end coming out of the air box. Took a spin thought all was good and get back to find another puddle of oil under the scoot! It seems this all started after we adjusted the valves...Going to check them again tomorrow and figure this darn thing out!

[rks]

If it started after you had valve cover off...it's most likely the o-ring gasket pictured 4 posts above

[chinacrapper]

Well all, the scoot is finally up and running again, I'm not even sure what may have fixed it. I did all the things mentioned and after all was done the damn thing would turn over slow, like the starter was acting up. Then when I finally gave up went back out and it fired right up and runs like a scalded duck up to 50 mph no problem, took a long ride no more dying out! Going to give it a couple more good rides before passing it on to someone else to be sure they get a good one. Debating on buying a new one and doing the ppi before even riding it...

[chinacrapper]

Wrong! lol pos is still messed up, turns over slow with a brand new battery. I'm thinking possible ignition switch. Can someone confirm where your key sits for the starting position, mine has lock then clicks 2 times to the "on" position but I thought it used to click one more time to ignition to start...Anyway the headlight does not turn on either so that was one of the reasons I suspected this as well. Wish I had paid more attention the other day when it was running...

[gatornation]

On mine the lights are run off of the stator instead of the battey. I would check your stator and pickup sensor. I thought my stator was bad, but it ended up just being my sensor. It would start and run fine, but the lights wouldn't come on until I got it fixed. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check your bulbs.

[chinacrapper]

The problem is not a light it's the thing turns over slow now with a new battery. Suspect the ignition switch but don't want to waste anymore money if it's not. Have 2 buyers for the pos but haven't figured it out yet. Removed the switch and lubed it all up but doesn't seem to make a difference. Next step off the mountain

[Bashan]

The ignition switch has very little to do with the starter mechanism. The ignition switch simply energizes the start button so that the solenoid can close the battery to starter circuit:

If the solenoid is engaging the starter with the ignition switch on there is nothing wrong with the ignition switch, solenoid, or starter button. The most likely possibilities at that point are a bad battery or a bad starter. If the battery is 12.5+ get it load tested. I know it's new, new batteries are sometimes defective. If the battery is OK the starter is probably bad. You can put a meter on the big terminals of the solenoid and hit the start button. If the voltage drops to near zero the starter is sucking juice and is shorted.

[chinacrapper]

It's a wally world battery so I will have it tested. It didn't make sense to me either because sometimes it would turn over fast then other times very slow. Thanks for the reply.