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Post by robertban on Jun 27, 2014 15:58:08 GMT -6
Would anyone happen to have the charging circuit Schematic showing voltage points to check for the newer 2013 (MC-13-250) I can have a fully charged battery and after riding for a while the battery goes dead this is also a new duralast (ETX9) battery
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Post by Bashan on Jun 27, 2014 18:00:17 GMT -6
You don't need a schematic. Put your multi on the battery terminals and give it some RPM, it should read about 14.5v DC. If it doesn't then we do more testing.
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Post by robertban on Jun 27, 2014 22:14:50 GMT -6
Here are the checks I done bashan Battery check engine not running 14.7 volts Engine cold running Ground Cable unhooked from battery 14.7 volts Engine hot (temp guage above the ½ way point) Ground Cable unhooked @ low idle (normal) 6.5 volts Engine hot (temp gauge above the ½ way point) Ground Cable unhooked @ fast idle (wheel just barely moves) 7.5 volts Also I've notice that the radiator fan does not come on until the temp guage gets above the ½ way point by about 1/8"
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 28, 2014 6:28:17 GMT -6
leave the battery cables alone connected . start the engine rev it to 4000 rpm and take a voltage reading .
John
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Post by robertban on Jun 28, 2014 14:58:17 GMT -6
Thanks Tvnacman
for your help but should it still put out 14.5 volts regardless if the battery was hook-up or not because after you ride it for awhile the battery goes dead even if the battery was fully charged the battery voltage will start dropping after running a little while
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 28, 2014 15:43:04 GMT -6
does the fan stay on while riding ?
John
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Post by Bashan on Jun 28, 2014 16:01:15 GMT -6
Start the bike, leave the battery cables hooked up. Set your multi to DC and under 50v if it's not an auto ranger. Simply touch the red probe to the red terminal, and touch black to black, and give it some RPM. It should read about 14.5v DC. On this test, you are simply reading the voltage potential, the electron pressure if you will. The multi is not even reading current so you only have to touch the probes to the correct terminals and it reads the electron push, not actual electron flow. Therefore you do not have to disconnect cables and put the multi in the circuit. That is testing in series, we want a test in parallel. The series test is for amps and we are looking simply for voltage potential. Rich
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Post by robertban on Jun 28, 2014 16:03:18 GMT -6
yes as long as it stays above the half way point
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Post by robertban on Jun 28, 2014 16:07:13 GMT -6
Thanks Bashan
will do this after dinner
Most I got was 13.10 volts at idle & full speed so I take it not charging at all what could be the most likely suspect how would you test
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 28, 2014 17:12:57 GMT -6
check the running voltage from the negative battery and the anode side of the blocking diode . tell us what you get at idle and at 4000 rpm .
John
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Post by robertban on Jun 29, 2014 21:37:21 GMT -6
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 30, 2014 12:45:38 GMT -6
The fan should not run mist of the time , it should cycle on and off . If your getting steady run of the cooling fan you may have a cooling system problem .
John
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