Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 21:16:07 GMT -6
Ah, yes I forgot about that. Thanks for the reminder.
Another thought; It appears the only place I am going to be able to mount the radiator is above the engine. Should I be using check valves on certain lines?
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Post by Bashan on Jul 15, 2014 4:01:32 GMT -6
I did the filler cap because it was lower and less lift for the pump. It turned out the pump would have pushed way higher than that. That pump was expensive and sucked electricity. I was running a converted stator with a Trail Tech R/R so I had plenty of juice but you wouldn't. However, I said the valve cover because the fill spout had problems accepting all of the oil. If I had to do it again I planned on using the valve cover which I had extensively researched. A simple drilling with a pressure fitting...boom. I was a little concerned with lifting the oil that high but I think the check valves are an excellent idea for anything heading up. I'd put them every couple of feet or closer. It's not high pressure, hose barbs with clamps work fine. I used petro line from Lowes, it handles everything from gasoline to oil, it's thick too. Alley is right about the extra capacity, you just have to feel your way on that. You will have a lot of air in the system to work out that's why I used that short span of clear tube and had the vertical release valve. That whole system was just an experiment so it was a lot more cumbersome that what it could have been. You could streamline things a LOT and make it more usable. You don't need a ten amp pump either. I can't even remember why I went with that big arse thing but that's how I generally do stuff, bat crap crazy. Rich
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 15, 2014 9:15:26 GMT -6
... A simple drilling with a pressure fitting...boom. ...
I was going to use a 1/8" npt drill and tap and an elbow+1/8" npt to hose barb fitting to return oil to the valve cover. Is that what you meant by pressure fitting or was it something different? Also, I'm thinking the valve cover might not be thick enough to get the threads good and seated. How about putting a mound of epoxy on top of the valve cover where I plan to drill and tap, letting it dry and cure, and then drilling and tapping through the epoxy and the valve cover? I'll see if I can get a mock-up done to show you where I might put the radiator.
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Ad Free Donut
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A bike is music to my ears.
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Post by Guitarman on Jul 16, 2014 3:56:48 GMT -6
Or you could save the money and hassle and buy one that is designed and built to be more reliable.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 9:27:49 GMT -6
Most of the oil coolers for these scoots are at least $175 and most of those are for 150cc and require a new piece of the engine casing with pressure taps or require you to drill and tap holes yourself. And I haven't seen one that includes an auxiliary pump.
The total cost for my DIY solution so far is $77.18 which includes a radiator far bigger than the ones in the kit and a pump to flow more oil through it.
Plus I freakin' love DIY stuff!
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Post by Bashan on Jul 16, 2014 15:41:24 GMT -6
No, you drill the hole and then screw the back on, the coppoer rings seal, sometimes plastic o rings. Much better than epoxy.
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Ad Free Donut
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Post by Guitarman on Jul 16, 2014 16:20:04 GMT -6
Since you love the DIY stuff, Chinese scooters are perfect for you!
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 17:11:46 GMT -6
Since you love the DIY stuff, Chinese scooters are perfect for you! That's half the reason I bought one! Bash, something like this?
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 18, 2014 13:19:17 GMT -6
Did you have any issues with the temperature probe bottoming out in the tee fitting here?
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