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Post by Bashan on Jul 13, 2014 13:01:18 GMT -6
Make it smaller..... What does that mean?? Oh oh yeah...the dimension thing...scale it down. Yeah, sure, that's what I eventually did with the mule. is he talking about? Bueller? Bueller?
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 13:31:40 GMT -6
Oh yeah, you forget the egocentrism thing, it's all about me. OK cheesy bread, that would be 4" X 11" X 1". Uh oh! It's the 1" that's the problem. That would not transfer much heat. I really don't think that would transfer enough heat to help. These engines generate a lot more heat than a pooter. So I take it something like this would be even worse?
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Post by Bashan on Jul 13, 2014 15:25:21 GMT -6
Were you going to push it through that radiator with the on board oil pump?
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 15:39:35 GMT -6
No, I was going to buy a separate pump like the one you posted a picture of.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 13, 2014 18:31:57 GMT -6
That would help some. You could try it and if the temp didn't come down enough you could just increase the size of the radiator. They are really reasonable through siliconeintakes.com . I think I paid $40.00 for a huge one.
This pump would be a safer bet but it's more expensive. It is designed for a wider set of parameters including temp. Rich
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 19:01:52 GMT -6
It appears that pump is only for intermittent use. linkWhat about something like this or this
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Post by jct842 on Jul 13, 2014 19:34:39 GMT -6
I believe the most reliable 50 is one that has been checked, pdi-ed and regularly serviced and no modifications what so ever. The ones we keep hearing about is "it was running good till I put the kit on" "now I have no compression" "it used to charge the battery....." aaaaaaand on and on!
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Post by Bashan on Jul 13, 2014 19:37:58 GMT -6
You know that frosts me. MBE markets that as a 24/7 fuel pump. I like the second one but who knows? It looks OK to me, not a huge expenditure like MBE if it doesn't work. Rich
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 19:46:49 GMT -6
I've slowly had that reality dawned upon me recently. It seems as the mods increase the reliability decreases. It sucks having the modification itch along with common sense. Also, with regards to this link; there is another one even bigger with 6 passes for only 4 more cents here. I just don't know where the heck I would mount that.
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Post by jct842 on Jul 13, 2014 21:47:11 GMT -6
The mods are fun and as soon as they run better you start shaving off longivity. Those chinese guys do seem to know what they have,...an engine that works fine as is and is putting out as much power as possible with out hurting long term. " I been know to make a mistake once in a while, but as I understand it the 150 is not a real 150cc engine as designed. It was initially built as a 110cc engine. While it is now sold as a 150 it is the same oil pump, crank, well just every thing as it was before except it has the extra load of almost 1/2 again the cc it was designed as. The crank case holds the same oil, has the same air fan every thing the same. Now there are a few selling that engine with even more cc's, almost 200cc but out side of the cyl and piston it is a 110cc engine!
Imagine what would happen to a car engine if you were able to increase its size to almost double using the same block?
The 50cc engine, the "139" is probably the toughest of the lot, but just reading here the trouble starts as owners quest for more power.
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Post by jct842 on Jul 13, 2014 21:52:09 GMT -6
A real longevity mod in my mind would be to use a double head gasket to lower the compression or mill out some of the compression chamber and lower the power!
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 8:23:31 GMT -6
...Imagine what would happen to a car engine if you were able to increase its size to almost double using the same block? ... Turbocharged engines. You aren't really increasing the size if the engine, but it isn't uncommon to get double the power from a decent sized turbo. And what does happen is BOOM! I'm not really looking for more power ATM, I have enough with the 72cc bbk. If I want or need more power than that, I'll look at getting a 150 and a motorcycle endorsement.Or maybe even go straight to a motorcycle. Edit: How about something simple and passive to reduce temperature, like those air scoops for the fan mounted on the flywheel. Do those do anything or are they just crap?
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Post by jct842 on Jul 14, 2014 13:44:28 GMT -6
Those scoops might work a little at speed. But what happens when you are at a stop light? When you need cooling the most after having been going WOT, near the red line, now you are stopped, you need to get rid of the heat built up and with the scoop blocking part of the path it is going to be harder to draw cool air in when you need the cool air the most.
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 19:10:36 GMT -6
Ah, I see your point.
Hey Bash, a few questions; with the cooler and the pump lines being pressurized, should I be using compression or AN fittings, or will hose barbs and hose clamps be enough?
I read your thread where you installed the oil cooler. You put the return line into the oil filter cap instead of the valve cover, any reason why? I would rather do that because I can buy another oil filter cap cheaper than another valve cover if I want to remove the cooler.
Any tips/tricks/hazards to watch out for that you came across in your oil cooler install that you can pass on?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 14, 2014 19:18:13 GMT -6
One tip is you need more oil due to the extra capacity of the radiator and extra hoses. Alleyoop
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