150cc? Roketa GO KART! By mikey34 (Read 2,275 times)

[mikey34]

Hey guys! I have the pleasure of working on this ROKETA Go-Kart. I BELIEVE, it is a 150cc, however I haven't been able to really Tell, how big the engine is. I wouldn't THINK, it would be any Smaller, but I have found that a couple I have seen on the web, are 110, 150, 200cc... So I am NOT 100% on that. The kart's wiring, is completely Frankenstein'ed, and is NOT getting Spark... They had the vacuum and fuel line Backwards, and after I switched it, found gas on the spark plug so I am getting fuel. I have looked over the Entire Kart, thinking MAYBE, it has a BRAKE SWITCH that has to be depressed to engage the starter, but CANNOT FIND ONE! I went ahead and crossed the solenoid to jump it, and I am not getting ANY readings on the volt meter, when I check the leads FROM THE STATOR.









IMO, it is a bad Stator(since I got NOTHING while turning over the engine on the stator leads). Took off the flywheel(SO GLAD I INVESTED IN A FLYWHEEL REVERSE THREAD TOOL!) it was PACKED FULL, of dirt and debris. I went ahead and cleaned everything up, put it back together, and STILL nothing. I think the previous owner MAY have got it stuck somewhere in MUD/WATER and it fouled the Stator.

ANY AND ALL HELP, is Very Much Appreciated!!! Thanks in advance guys, and think a few of you might get a kick out of a ROKETA GO-KART!!! hahaha

[mikey34]

In the SECOND PICTURE, you can see the YELLOW/WHITE/GREEN{B/W,R/B} Leads coming from the stator. I am also wondering if ANY of you know, what the little white box(Capacitor maybe??) with the GREY and BLACK wires coming off of it. Thanks guys, I have even thought about just pulling all of the mess of wires OFF and starting OVER! I think MAY be the best option! THANKS GUYS!

P.S. The Stator is a 6 POLE STATOR.

[Bashan]

That little box is probably a relay to shut the lights off while it's cranking. Did you check continuity on the stator pigtail wires. On a WYG single phase you should have continuity between the WYG wires. If not it confirms a bad stator. Did you check the voltages on the red wire and blue wire with the bullet connectors? Rich

[mikey34]

Rich, I checked all the wires WYG, and two coil wires for a 12volt signal WHILE cranking and didn't get anything! Is there a way to check the continuity with the stator OFF of the engine? I have it removed ATM.

This is ALL from no Spark of course, so I tried a DIFFERENT(NOT NEW) CDI box from a 50cc with no change, but this thing has had so many things added and subtracted, I have to Follow Every Wire :/

I didn't see any burnt spots on ANY Connector, and have found the CDI/Voltage R/R and all SEEMED to be in the right connector.

Wouldn't I have got SOMETHING out of the COIL LEADS while cranking??

THANKS RICH!

[Bashan]

Yes, you can check continuity while out of the bike. Just set it on something non-conductive like a wood bench, not a metal bench. If your meter doesn't have continuity just check ohms at a low setting like 200. If you get OL or infinity a coil is burned up. But even if the continuity is present, if you got squat on voltages while cranking it is a bad stator. BUT, the ground to the stator must be intact for the circuits to work and that would give you zero voltage if the ground was bad. Just bolt it back onto the case and check continuity from the green to case and frame. Also check where the green attached to make sure it's OK. The two coil wires you mentioned.....the blue should have been .05 to 1v AC...not DC. Same with the red/black...it's 50 to 100v AC...not DC. The white should be around 30v AC and 20v AC on the yellow. I'd recheck set to AC if I'm reading your post right. Rich

[mikey34]

You most certainly DID read my post right Rich! Thank you so much sir! I was checking for a 12VOLT DC, signal! I didn't even think about switching to AC!(DOH!). I got a slight .1V reading on DC setting, from the bullet connectors(RED/BLK,&BLUE/WHITE. But Absolutely nothing on the W,Y,and G leads. After getting the flywheel off, the stator and flywheel were **COVERED!** in DIRT! I washed the flywheel with gas, and blew off the stator with AirComp, Put it all back together, and still no SPARK/(READINGS WHILE ON DC..) I was starting to think they're may be a switch, similar to the scooters, on the brake lever. BUT nothing except the BRAKE LIGHT switch goes to the brakes.

I will check the stator now and get back to you on readings, can't get it back on as it is at the owners house. I am REALLY considering just taking it ALL off and start from scratch to ensure correct wiring :/

[Bashan]

Just for you Mikey.....here's an excerpt from the New Scooter Doc manual I'm about to finish up and release to the members:


Now we'll do the more common single phase GYW stator. It's called GYW because that is generally the color of the wires in the pigtail. Even though there are two power wires coming off of the stator it is still single phase because it is actually one wire. The yellow is center tapped on to the white, it is not a separate winding. Remember, the circuits are completed through ground wires, the blue arrows show the direction of electron flow:

The system looks like this:

Unplug the white and yellow and start the bike. Ground one probe (remember, polarity does not matter with AC current!) and put the other probe on the white with the bike running and some RPM. You should get 20 to 40v AC. Do the same with the yellow and you should get 15 to 25. If not, your stator is bad and must be replaced:

Now plug them back in and test on an exposed connector. The wires are now regulated by the R/R and both wires should read around 12v AC with some RPM. If the stator was good and these values are off, then your R/R is bad:

Then test the charging on the battery by using the same test as with the three phase. Leave everything hooked up and put the multi on the battery set to DC. Values are the same, 13 to 14.5v DC. If the stator was good, then the R/R is bad outside of these parameters.

SCOOTER DOC STATOR TESTING

You can also do some ohm testing on a GYW stator:

Below we are testing the red wire for resistance with the black lead on the ground wire of the harness. On the right you can see the oft cited ScootUSA.COM stator test which states 500 ohms +/- 50 is normal on the large "magneto" coil. You can see our eight coil stator is coming within normal limits at 547 ohms (.547K ohms=547 ohms). This test could of course be done with the stator in the scooter:

The pickup coil registered a value of 148 ohms which is within the limits of 50-170 seen in most of the manuals. The mounting bracket had to be used as a ground as no circuit could be obtained through the green wire:

If the tests are abnormal and you need to replace your stator go to Chapter Ten.

[mikey34]

Shoot Rich, My stator MAY be good after all, I am getting 533ohm on the Red wire, and 155 on the Blue... I guess the next thing in line would be CDI or R/R right?

[Bashan]

Just because the ohms are right doesn't mean the voltages are right. I know man, these things can drive you batty. If the ohms are right it's a good possibility that the stator is OK. But put it in the scooter and attach the ground. You don't have to start it, just pull the plug to get some RPMs and crank it. You just want to see what that little alternator can produce, and as long as it's spinning...it will produce unless it's burned up. If it was my project, since the ohms are OK, I'd put it back in the bike, or another bike, and spin it. We might all be surprised. Rich

[mikey34]

I will try it, the other day when I took it off, I know it didn't show any DC...voltage

This time I will be sure to check AC voltage and see if it produces anything. Think I have another R/R off of a 50cc that's 4PIN too. This think is a RAT's nest on wiring man. Looks like four or five different owner add-on's, plus with how MUCH dirt was in the Stator Flywheel, I think they drove it into a bog, and left it there!!!

[JR]

Since you found the system full of dirt and think it may have been in water you simply need to check the red/black and the blue yellow wires for AC output, the white, yellow and green have nothing to do with spark but are for the charging and accessories.

Clean it all up and make sure the pulse coil is clean and then spin her over and test those two wires, if they don't read as rich says then time for a new stator/pickup coil assembly. If you use the lighting much then I would replace it with a 8-coil stator and one with the same wires, yellow, white and green to plug and play with the OEM R/R. When ordering measure the OD and hole spacings to make sure you match the 6 to a 8 coil setup.