Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

Thanks Guitarman,

The owner ordered a new ECU($311.00), Since I am afraid the ecu fried from me connecting the remote wire of the fuel pump, to the 12volt power wire when I replaced with a micro fuel pump from O'Reillys Auto Parts (model 12S). I am gonna run a new power wire from the fuse box, to the pump. Should take care of that hopefully...

Victory short lived guys, I went to start the bike today, and it started, then immediately shut off, all lights, gauges everything...

I tested voltage at the battery and had 12.3. I'm afraid I have a burnt plastic smell coming from the ECU... WHY DID THEY PUT AN ECU, In a 50cc...?

If any body has a good wiring diagram to an 09 Ruckus/ Metro, I NEED it... THANKS Guys!

Thanks Cyborg, ya I could have used a rider lawn mower pump, but the 12S pump from O'Reillys Auto has been tested on a couple different setups. All the way up to 250cc, at first I was afraid of the pump flooding the carb, so I used the filter that came with the pump, and used an inline right before the carb to get the hose diameter back down so it would be a tight fit on the carb. I love that it is about 1.5 the size of the original, hard to fit into stock hole, but you can hear the pump kick on this way YOU KNOW, your getting Fuel!!!!

Sorry about the UN Clear description guys. The problem was not getting ENOUGH fuel to the carb.

When I would turn the IGNITION to ON, the Fuel Pump would come on, but made this LOUD "TICKING". I called Honda to see how much the OEM replacement would be, and they quoted 95-110 dollars. After doing some research I found that a couple people had replaced theirs with a "Micro-Fuel Pump/12S" from ANY of the Auto Parts Stores. It was only 45 dollars. With some SMALL fabrication, couple of SMALL holes in the SUB FRAME and tapped with 10mm bolts, also replaced all the rubber hose and the NEW Fuel Pump came with a brass fuel filter. I went ahead and added ANOTHER Regular plastic and brass fuel filter too. Starts on the first push EVERYTIME!!!

MORAL OF THE STORY ON "THIS" REPAIR: TICKING means bad fuel Pump!!!

I will try it, the other day when I took it off, I know it didn't show any DC...voltage

This time I will be sure to check AC voltage and see if it produces anything. Think I have another R/R off of a 50cc that's 4PIN too. This think is a RAT's nest on wiring man. Looks like four or five different owner add-on's, plus with how MUCH dirt was in the Stator Flywheel, I think they drove it into a bog, and left it there!!!

You most certainly DID read my post right Rich! Thank you so much sir! I was checking for a 12VOLT DC, signal! I didn't even think about switching to AC!(DOH!). I got a slight .1V reading on DC setting, from the bullet connectors(RED/BLK,&BLUE/WHITE. But Absolutely nothing on the W,Y,and G leads. After getting the flywheel off, the stator and flywheel were **COVERED!** in DIRT! I washed the flywheel with gas, and blew off the stator with AirComp, Put it all back together, and still no SPARK/(READINGS WHILE ON DC..) I was starting to think they're may be a switch, similar to the scooters, on the brake lever. BUT nothing except the BRAKE LIGHT switch goes to the brakes.

I will check the stator now and get back to you on readings, can't get it back on as it is at the owners house. I am REALLY considering just taking it ALL off and start from scratch to ensure correct wiring :/

Thanks for all the tips and points guys!

The clamp solved the issue, as far as I can tell. Had to get the Idle adjusted, but after the choke disengaged and she settled down, she stayed running for a good 10-15 mins just fine! She was happy, I was Happy, it all worked out! She said she would call if anything changed and SAYS, she would like to bring it by for the fluids change on it. I am pretty sure it still has the CRAP oil they put in it to ship it over here, and told her THAT would cause more problems than anything! Hopefully I will hear from her today to get it all changed!

Thanks Again Guys!!!!