tgb r50x starting issue By tominbmore (Read 13,694 times)

[tominbmore]

Tx guys. I'm sure hoping I don't have to open up my engine. This noob aint never done that. 0_0

Guitar man tx. I've finally latched on to the logic that if the old plug and new plug create same spark, then they're either both GOOD (meaning something else is to blame, or they're both BAD (meaning something is causing the bad spark other than the plugs themselves).

I found a good step by step tutorial on another forum that walks through this "if you have spark... then", and "if you still don't have spark then chevk ignition coil or stator"... I at least feel like I'm locked in to the process now and follow the tests to the right solution.

I appreciate your input!

[Alleyoop]

We have all the info on how-to on the forum just go to the right section and check out the threads.
Alleyoop

Here is one to find a NO-SPARK situation.
scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/9349/great-spark-video-tests

[tominbmore]

Sweet I'll stay right HERE. You all are doing right by me so far.

[cyborg]

thats a good sign that you have compression,,,clean the plug and test it as Alley suggests,,if it's fireing then the only thing left is fuel and timing,,,you get all three you got a runner

[tominbmore]

Guitarman, here's a shot of a couple fat wires (bundled wires perhaps?), secured to outside of plastic housing surrounding the engine block (I think).

That what you mean?

[tominbmore]

She's running!

Tested spark on new plug and honestly couldn't tell if it was better than old plug... but it looked a little more healthy spark. Then plugged er in and cranked ignition and she now starts every time without fail.

Wow. Only weird thing is that the plug doesn't want to perfectly fit into the plug holder thing bc they are both now female on the ends. (My old plug was just a straight up open screw that fit into the screw holder on the plug cap).

So the plug cap could disconnect at thr slightest bump.





Ever seen that??

[Alleyoop]

That is a CAP on the end of the Plug, unscrew it off and then you will have just the threads like your other plug.
Alleyoop

[tominbmore]

Excellent thanks I was hoping that was the solution.

I did 15 consecutive ignition starts and successful every time.

Only slight issue is that when I started her cold she revved high at aboit 8000 rpms at IDLE for about 45 secs to a minute. Then settled down to solid 2000 rpm idle and responsive when I opened throttle.

You guys are life savers I really appreciate your time and know-how.

Tom

[cyborg]

Alley beat me to it AGAIN,,,,,, ,,,Glad you got her going!!!!

[Alleyoop]

Fantastic Ride Safe
Alleyoop

[Alleyoop]

Apr 11, 2015 16:19:06 GMT -6 tominbmore said:

Excellent thanks I was hoping that was the solution.

I did 15 consecutive ignition starts and successful every time.

Only slight issue is that when I started her cold she revved high at aboit 8000 rpms at IDLE for about 45 secs to a minute. Then settled down to solid 2000 rpm idle and responsive when I opened throttle.

You guys are life savers I really appreciate your time and know-how.

Tom

It could be your ENRICHER is not working. You can test it if you Want. Take it off(held) on with only two screws and a "C" clamp.
The Enricher should feed it extra FUEL for COLD STARTS, once the motor starts it feeds voltage to the Enricher and then the plunger extends out and shuts off the extra fuel.

If it is already extended when cold then when you start the motor cold IT IS VERY LEAN.

It should look like this when you take it off and the motor is COLD:
ENRICHER RETRACTED:


IF IT LOOKS LIKE THIS COLD IT IS BAD:

[Guitarman]

Alley lives here so of course he's going to beat us to it. We on the other hand are out RIDING...

[tominbmore]

Apr 11, 2015 16:39:20 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Apr 11, 2015 16:19:06 GMT -6 tominbmore said:

Excellent thanks I was hoping that was the solution.

I did 15 consecutive ignition starts and successful every time.

Only slight issue is that when I started her cold she revved high at aboit 8000 rpms at IDLE for about 45 secs to a minute. Then settled down to solid 2000 rpm idle and responsive when I opened throttle.

You guys are life savers I really appreciate your time and know-how.

Tom

It could be your ENRICHER is not working. You can test it if you Want. Take it off(held) on with only two screws and a "C" clamp.
The Enricher should feed it extra FUEL for COLD STARTS, once the motor starts it feeds voltage to the Enricher and then the plunger extends out and shuts off the extra fuel.

If it is already extended when cold then when you start the motor cold IT IS VERY LEAN.

It should look like this when you take it off and the motor is COLD:
ENRICHER RETRACTED:


IF IT LOOKS LIKE THIS COLD IT IS BAD:

Great insight Alley!

I'll check that out. That explanation makes sense. The super high "revving" idle after the cold start seemed like an extreme version of how idle will stay super high before coming down when one is dealing with an air / fuel screw turned way too lean.

Went and put fresh gas in the scooter and when I started her up the issue wasn't there. Prob bc the engine was warmed like you say.

T.

[Guitarman]

Ok, Now go get yourself a can of SEAFOAM. Pour about 1/8 can into your tank then top it off with gas. That will clean a ton of crud from the inside of the engine and it should run much better and have more power as well.

[tominbmore]

Apr 12, 2015 14:57:18 GMT -6 Guitarman said:

Ok, Now go get yourself a can of SEAFOAM. Pour about 1/8 can into your tank then top it off with gas. That will clean a ton of crud from the inside of the engine and it should run much better and have more power as well.

Thanks man. Actually when you posted that I had already topped up my half full tank from the Fall. So should I wait till the tank is below halfway or so before putting this SEAFOAM stuff?