2016: Year of Electrical Strikes! By jomama0867 (Read 1,194 times)

[Alleyoop]

Yea, It is running so good I hate to mess with it anymore. I have just about every mod on it already and it runs like a raped ape (HAHA).

HERE IS THE DIFFERENCE from stock.



Here is the 18/36 ready to slap in:



Here is what I currently have in there:

[jomama0867]

!?!  While waiting for my new starter to get here (Thursday), I disconnected the large red wire from the battery to disable the starter system. I also charged my battery (13.6 VDC at rest), but as soon as I turn the key on the ignition switch, my battery drops to below 7 VDC! Thinking it may be the switch, I by-passed it by jumping the black and red wires at the 4-pin connector . . . same result! I'm just not sure where to check next (I've checked all of the grounds that I can find). Could a bad brake switch be causing this (MY LEFT ONE STICKS A LITTLE SOMETIMES)? I'm almost ready to scrap the whole wiring harness and start over . . . ALMOST!

[Alleyoop]

Did you tighten up the screw back up good because you do have the thin red wire which feeds the ignition and it may not making good contact and not charging. Also if the brake switch is sticking on the on position the solenoid and brake lights will be always getting juice and draining your battery.
For the brake switch spray some WD-40 into the switch and work it in and out to unstick.
Alleyoop

[jomama0867]

Checked the thin red wire and it's tight. WD-40 on the switch seemed to work good. I had the battery checked at AutoZone, and they said it was good (needed to be charged . . . DUH), but they didn't check it under a load . . . is it possible that it could check out fine and still be "bad" under a load? The battery recovers as soon as the key is turned off, and it seems to be holding a charge fine (charged it yesterday mid-day, checked it this afternoon and reads the same VDC)!

[jerryscript]

Yes, charge at rest can look fine, while under load it is shot. Most auto parts shops check under load, I would go to a different store for testing.

[jomama0867]

Yes, the AutoZone closest to me sux, always busy and they make you stand in the parts/service line even if you're just checking out . . . NEVER AGAIN!  Thank you to all of you genius guru's, you were ALL correct . . . battery bad under load! Bought a new one at Batteries Plus (10AH and 170 CCA's instead of 90). I'll have to make a small mod on my battery box to fit it (3/8 inch taller), but well worth the work. The scoot starts easily every time, first crank.

As for the other issues, they seem to have been solved . . . except one. Key on, kill switch off, when I grip EITHER brake, the instrument lights come on! Strange, since I'm pretty sure they don't share ANY wiring.  I've been studying the wiring diagrams for a while now but can't seem to find any common connections that explain it. Has anyone heard of this before? I can't even reason where to look for a short!

[cyborg]

Had that problem on a few vehicles,,,,now that is a classic ground issue,,,I was running a car that had been switched to fiberglass fenders and when I would hit the brakes or turn signals the dash and all this other stuff would turn on,,,,drove me nuts till I figured out I had forgotten to run ground wires,,,

[jomama0867]

Yeah, that's kind of what I figured, too! It seems like it should be fairly easy to find, but ALL of these @% connections I find are suspect . . . I'll find it eventually! Thanks cyborg for the confirmation. I'm bound to run out of connections eventually . . . right?!?

[lasse]

Hello from Norway.

Do you have a ownersmanual og engine manual for the 1p57qmj.

I have bought one new i n a box and it doesn`t come with any papers.

cinserely Lasse