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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 5:40:47 GMT -6
Well, actually it starts and runs for about 10 seconds. I put on a new carb and it will start, but seems like it runs just long enough to empty the bowl. I have also replaced the fuel pump, but wasn't sure which line goes where. If it stes for an hour, it will start and run for the afore mentioned 10 seconds. Any and all help is appreciated. Details on which hose goes where would really help.
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 8:44:43 GMT -6
Here is a photo of the fuel pump and hoses.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Feb 13, 2016 12:55:03 GMT -6
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 16:40:15 GMT -6
Thank you for the response. I have it hooked up as you suggest other than the one you have marked as tank is labeled vent on the back, so I plugged it off because fuel spits out of it. The one you marked as overflow? Is where I hooked the tank and it is labeled in on the pump.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 16:50:39 GMT -6
If labeled in on the PETCOCK that is FROM THE TANK, the other one PLUG IT UP not needed. The middle one with a bend is the VACUUM from the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the other one pointing in the same direction goes to the CARB. Also you FUEL FILTER IS BACKWARDS the bigger end always goes toward the carb. So that is all fine NOW, is there another one on the outlet from the tank or how is that hooked up. Alleyoop
PICTURE OF THE CARB AREA showing the HOSES, INTAKE and FILTER SIDE.
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 17:29:04 GMT -6
Just one line from the tank. I never even paid attention to the filter. I just hooked it up the way it came out of the box. The filter was already attached. Dopey me, should have double checked it. Lol So..... Could the filter being backwards cause the bowl to empty faster than it is getting supplied?
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 17:34:12 GMT -6
Could be depends on the filter. There is a space between the filter and the end of the it so there should always be gas in that are. Gas should flow through the outside of the filter and not from the inside of the filter out. PICTURE of the HOSES would also help you may have to many things on the vacuum connector or what not or connected wrong which would not create enough suction on the PETCOCK to open it and allow fuel to flow.
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 17:49:20 GMT -6
Ok, thank you. The vacuum line from the intake has a tee. From that tee a line goes to the angled port on the pump and a line goes to the top of the carb where the diaphram is on the opposite side from the fuel inlet only higher. Right after it dies, I can open the bowl drain and fuel runs out, but the engine won't start again unless I leave it alone for half an hour. It is driving me nuts! And that's a pretty short drive.........in a round about. Lol
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 17:56:07 GMT -6
So the bowl has fuel when it starts how long will it stay running or do you ride it around. When it starts cold does it run for about 5 minutes then it dies? Then it will not start until about 15-30 minutes after that?
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 18:04:22 GMT -6
It only runs for 10-15 seconds, then dies, just like turning the key off. Attempted starts after it dies result in starts up to idle speed then dies. It will do that about 2 times and then it is a half hour wait and repeats the process all over again with the exact same results. Even spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb yields nothing. The thing runs like a champ for the 10-15 seconds and even has great acceleration, until it dies.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 18:07:01 GMT -6
How many miles on the puppy? and have you had the valves adjusted on it?
Have you adjusted the Carbs Fuel Mixture? Turn it clockwise until it stops then turn it counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns and see if it acts better. Alleyoop
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 18:14:20 GMT -6
I have no idea how many miles are on it. I just bought it a month ago for $200 because it wouldn't even turn over. I'm a certified small engine mechanic(from back in the early 80's), but I'm not familiar with constant vacuum carbs or chinese engineering. It runs perfect until it dies. Should I try eliminating the pump and let gravity feed the carb? I assume I still need vacuum on the top side of the carb. Is that the decelerator?
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 18:22:19 GMT -6
Ok, its a problem child and is why they sold it, it is in need of a little TLC. First adjust the Valves set them both to .004 inchs and then turn the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE screw like I told you, turn it clockwise until it stops then counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns. Alleyoop
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Post by hotrod55 on Feb 13, 2016 18:36:06 GMT -6
Ok. That is somewhat involved. I will try to make some time to adjust the valves and see what transpires. Thank you, Alleyoop!
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 13, 2016 19:36:32 GMT -6
Adjusting the valves is not hard just the first time after that you will be able to do it in 15 minutes. Here is how-to do it now remember set them BOTH TO .004 inchs.
A word of advice after you set them turn the motor over by hand you can do it with a wrench on the flywheel nut or you can take the CVT cover off and turn the VARIATOR by hand turn it counter clockwise. So after you adjust them turn the motor over a couple of times by hand before you put the valve cover back on and RE-CHECK the valve gaps.
What I do is are align the cam sprocket so the lobes are off the rockers and then try to insert the .005 feeler gauge in the gap and it should not go in but the .004 should that way when you button it back up you know the gaps are set good and not to loose or to tight after you tigthened up the lock nut.
You want to do this once and not have to tear it apart again to re-do the valve gaps, until of course after 2000 miles or so down the road. Alleyoop
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