MC 54 250B with 244c engine 2008 build right side crankcase By bobf (Read 1,056 times)

[bobf]

OK folks. Still working to get my scoot running again. I did lots of experimenting and finally found the right side crankcase cover is defective. It had to be from the factory as a chunk of stuff, likely 2 part epoxy, broke out. I can now try a two part epoxy only to have it fail again or order a new crankcase cover.

I found one priced at $35 dollars but after I ordered it they called me at home and told me out of stock. So I started looking around and found one at $69 and only 3 left. So I ordered and later found one at $49 or was it $55. Did not matter and I already had a shipping note of packaged and shipped. So by this coming weekend I should have the new casting from one dealer and the gaskets, water pump seals and bearings and gasket. So hoping in time I will have the scoot running again. Now for my question for this repair.

To exchange the casting for the right side crankcase I have to move the cable and a couple other parts to the new casting. Then reinstall on the engine.

My big concern is the gasket. If I get a normal gasket do I need to also use a adhesive to make sure it does not leak or will plenty of pressure on the many screws be sufficient.

I hope it starts running again. I have had it for five years now and not even 250 miles on it yet. If it does behave and start running again I will likely put it out for sale. Who ever buys it will be getting a repaired and working machine. Much more than what I had, even from the factory.

[Alleyoop]

Use some sealeant so you do not have to put to much pressure on the bolts when putting the cover back on.

[bobf]

That does make sense to me so I asked. What type would you use for this job. I would like something thin and at least an hour or two working life include. I have several in the garage but will look to the auto adhesives for one that gives sufficient working time and can take a lot of heat too and is easy to apply to one side only and the outer side could be covered later as the job goes on.

I know how I work and once started I want to have time to put all those bolts in while the adhesive is still soft and willing to hold on to stuff. I am not as fast as a factory worker might be with an array of properly fitted air drive tools.

[Alleyoop]

Many use this stuff holds gasket and seals for high temp areas.
Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Sealant 9 Oz. Aerosol Can

www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/gasket-sealant/permatex-9-oz-aerosol-can-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-adhesive-sealant/520940_0_0/

[bobf]

Thanks, I will look this up and see how it is supposed to work. It is one I don't have but worth a look see.

So thanks again.

[bobf]

One more problem with the right hand crank case cover that I ordered. It was only the 'right hand crank case cover' and none of the pressed in parts came with it. I look at pictures and the pressed in tube for venting shows up in and the pressed in water tube also shows up as already pressed in. But neither is in the part I received.

I managed to be able to twist and pull the air vent tube, about 3/16 diameter, and was able to pound it into the new casting. I definitely got it passed the inside surface but stopped the pounding before I did bend or crack the new casting.

Now I am trying to get the water hose connection out of the top of the casting. Sure can not get it to budge one bit. Nor have I been able to find any offered for sale.

I will try to loosen it with a torch on the outside and see if then I can twist it up and out. If not I will try drilling along side and see if that helps.

I would prefer just to buy a new tube and try to get it pushed into the new casting someway. Maybe a bit of enlarging of the hole or sanding the outside of the tube or both. It does not need a major force fit to hold it in. Just a nice grip and some adhesive will do fine.

Anyone know of a way to get this tube for the water hose? I spent a lot of time this afternoon and found none.

[Alleyoop]

The crankcase does not come with the pressed tubing, those are all seperate and by the way are hard to find. I only found that one which was used. So if you found then from someone with the stuff pressed in already put up a link of them. Those you may need to order from a dealer if they can even get them.

[bobf]

You have answered part of my question. Order from a dealer. Who might that be. I spent plenty of time looking for one that admitted to having one. And no luck so far.

Any clues other than mine on how to pull those parts from the old casting.

[Alleyoop]

Just a little heat and maybe penetrating oil and twist and to break the hold.
The only one that may be able to have them from spare scoots laying around would be ROKETA.

[jct842]

One note on the permatex copper....it also comes in a can with a dauber for less money. You only use a little, can be used on head gaskets too, and lasts forever they claim. Just a thin coat and it fills tiny voids and scratchs. It never gets truly hard so just a dab will do ya.

I have my supply in the dauber can and it works great.

[bobf]

Today, I gave up on trying to pull the water tube out of the casting. I used heat but after several tries I just gave up and did what my son suggested, and drilled all around the tube. It did not pull out so I drilled and drilled and used the drill to completely release the tube. I had the tube nearly all released from the metal and it still would not pull out. Almost like it had been soldered in. Finally I did get it to release from the grips of the casting and was able to get it out.

I spent some time with files rasping the outside of the tube, reshaped the tube back to as round as I could get it. All those efforts to get the tube out really messed up the tube. Once I go it reshaped and filed till fairly smooth I tried it in the new casting. It slipped in about half and then it was tight. So I doped it all up with water pump sealer and gasket material, set it in the hole, place a board over it and hammered the board till the tube went down to the bottom of the hole, like the old one had done. Now we wait till sometime tomorrow for the gasket putty to harden and then start reassembling the motor on the scooter.

Sure hope this all works when I get it assembled and start the engine. Starting probably won't happen till later this coming week. When running I will redo the valve adjustments one more time. This time I have some non hardening thread coating. Before the screws kept trying to spin off and hopefully now they won't. I will let you all know if it works and what the product is.

[bobf]

One question to any that have done this job on their scoots. I have the parts on the inside of the right side crankcase cover and am about to install the center seal over the bearings. The instructions say to "apply 'sealant' to the outer surface of a new mechanical seal. Drive the new seal into the cover."

What have you folks used as successful seals if you have done this job earlier. When I tore this part down I only remember a clear type of seal. When I look for sealants I find various names and colors from black, grey, brown, whatever. Some say dries hard and others say stays soft.

I have used water pump sealer earlier but not sure if that is the proper item to use.

Suggestions and ideas are welcome. I will then consider and use what sounds reasonable to me.

[bobf]

I have reassembled and today I will slowly add oil and coolant while watching for leaks. Maybe later today I will be able to try a restart.

[cyborg]

Good luck Bob,,,,,I think you got it right,,,,there's a piston right there

[bobf]

Twice today I ran the engine for a long spell. Got it up to heat with the coolant fan coming on. Then let it cool down to room temperature. Twice. Still no leaks.

Tomorrow run it again at least a couple times and hope no leaking begins.

If it stays dry I will then do the adjustments for idle and make sure all seems to be working in the following days. Once satisfied I will start putting body and floorboard panels on and hopefully in not too long a time have it ready for a test run.