New 250cc Chrome Edition, few glitches By tk3000 (Read 6,839 times)

[tk3000]

chyder, I, like you, only have good things to tell about bargaintory; they offered several options to take care of the issues with the bike: they offered to pick up the bike and send me a new one (well in spite of all the problems I grew attached to that bike, and besides I already registered, insured it, and have done lots of work on it), they also offered to pay for the repair in a local shop (I do all the repair myself, don't like shops), so they refund me some of money paid for the bike in order to pay for parts needed. All in all, I am very satisfied with bargaintory and would recommend them for anyone.

Jrryan interesting tool to hold variator in order to apply the proper torque.

So back to the bike issues, I have not been working on the bike lately. Zug, I have used a wrench strap in the past unsuccessfully but it was a cheap made one and it was on a stator's magneto; the ones you showed seems much better and heavy duty; so I got excited, went to Homedepot and bought the following:



But yesterday I tried using it; having some success with the clutch since it has more surface area for the tool to grip on, but not much success with the variator. At end of the end day I got the hang of using my old holding too with variator: the trick is to stabilize the tool and use the soil as a base and then from a 30 degrees angle rotates the tool clockwise more 20 degrees, and then repeat the same process until one obtains the proper torque. If I don't use such method (30 degree angle, turning clockwise in increments of 20 degrees) the bike would tip over or move (but if you have a friend who could seat on the bike...). Below is an image of the setup mentioned:



The pulley is not much of a problem since it turn is engaged in the rear wheel and would only turn in synchrony with the wheel which then can be locked with the bike's rear brake combined with the bike weight seating on its side stand. At the end of the day I was able to apply the proper torque to the clutch and variator. But it seems that I will order a new clutch to replace that one since it seems to be the weakest link responsible for the issues with speed.
Also measure the distances between the variator pulley faces with a micrometer; the distances seems to be constant ‑‑ around 39 mm – with a margin of error in the order a fraction of a mm


And finally some pics of the plumbing underneath the bike:


A spare radiator cap attached to the frame:


Spark plug also has been replaced for a ngk
Another issue I am having is backfiring (more like a sequence of loud coughs rather than a gun shot) during desacceleration. I sort of rooted the problem to some possible causes: carburetor lean condition (pilot circuit, cut-off valve), vacuum leak, muffler not properly sealed/insulated or missing gasket (I will check that out), or something else.

[Cruiser]

Hi tk. I think that the strap wrench you bought is smaller than the one I mentioned (Craftsman 12") in post #31 above. I just did some work on my variator and I use the centerstand bracket as the stop for the handle on the strap wrench when tightening the variator nut. 80 foot pounds of torque with no slipping. It is also very easy to line up and stays on the edge of the variator fan with no problems.

[tk3000]

Unfortunately I haven't had much time to work on the 250cc lately, sorry for the absence of response. Well, I have to admit that I really like the looks, size, and color of the your scooter DR. JR., and jonway should build a decent bike; I am even considering buying one too. The thing about the confusion with GY6 and 250cc displacement engine is that it seems that all of a sudden too many sellers start to follow suit and associated the GY6 with a 250cc displacement engine, as if there were such a variant of the GY6 (which I was pretty sure wasn't the case); but there were such a massive amount of sellers doing so that I decided to ask.

I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner and an air-compressor, since the bike was hesitating too much specially under acceleration, and found out that I also had a fuel delivery issue: fuel starvation which then seems to be associated with the fuel vacuum activated valve (petcock); for instance, if I create vacumm with my mouth I can barely have some droplet of fuel coming through (so I ordered a new petcock). But in the meantime I bypassed the petcock altogether and installed new fuel hoses, filter, etc; and the fuel starvation issue is gone for good. Also the orientation of the old petcock does not seem help since it is gravity fed.

I follow phils adviced and ordered a slightly smaller belt (gates power link belt): a 906 x 22 x 30.

Cruiser, in the past I used a wrench from harborfreight but was a flimsy and light one, the one from Husky is much better; but I certainly could give yours a try. But the tool I have is very hand one and is appropriate for the job, the problem is that there is no holes in the variator to hook up the tool.

Overall the bike is more responsive and working better, but I found out that after taking the bike for a spin (to test it for about 2 minutes) when I park it I notice some oil leaking underneath the engine case, not one single spot of the under the engine case but almost the whole area. The good thing is that it only leak just after having ridden it, and then it spots leaking. I hope it is not the crankcase gasket, and maybe something as simple as the crankcase breather tube . Any insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,
tk