Clutch/belt issues By bluescootgal (Read 449 times)

[bluescootgal]

Just got my scooter back from mechanic.  He put a new clutch on it and now it is very dangerous to drive.  It takes forever revving it up to get it to move,  like the clutch isn't working.  My mechanic said this is normal for a new clutch due to it being "lubed" from factory to keep it from rusting during shipment.  He told me to drive it for a week and it should be fine.  Am I being duped? Any info on how to get it to stop now would be great.

[czmdiver]

Sounds like Mumbo Jumbo to me
The Clutch Bell and Pads should have been cleaned of any "Lube" dry it should be.
Ive upgraded my Clutch and the new parts arrived correctly, Dry.

[czmdiver]

Dry

[cyborg]

Time to find a new mechanic,,,I smell poo,,,what kind/ brand do you have?,,mileage,,,year?

[jct842]

Does it seem the engine is racing and running top speed while the scooter is hardly moving? If you have a tach what does it say while you trying to get going?

[fufsgfen]

Bad mechanic, even if there would be oil to prevent rust, mechanic should remove that with brake cleaner before installation and all clutch parts I have bought to my GY6 kind of scooters were without such lubing.

Poor quality parts can be reason, if clutch springs are too stiff or manufacturing poor so that 'legs' of clutch don't open up freely.

Clutch bell of wrong diameter can have little effect too.

What I have experienced has been oil leak from gearbox unit, worn clutch axle allowed leaking even when new seal was installed, you could not spot this leak easily, but effect was that clutch was slipping very easily.

If your old clutch did slip easily that might of been original reason, but if not then it probably is something else.

Did you get new clutch or clutch and rear variator unit (belt pulleys) too?

One thing that could go wrong would be if mechanic puts too much grease when installing parts, so that grease ends up into belt/clutch.

I think best thing to do would be opening belt cover and see how clean parts look.

His explanation sounds like if he would of been putting too much grease or grease to wrong places and now he is wishing it to go away with time, truth would be that clutch/belt would be contaminated by grease and might not grip well ever again, however when grease burns off it will grip little better.

That might be because he is poor mechanic and does this error every time and most of the time customers are satisfied when there is little improvement over time, most will not remember how well clutch did grip originally and don't know how poorly clutch is gripping.

[bluescootgal]

It is doing that EXACT same thing.  No tach.  also have new variator/slides.  50cc upgraded to 100 total rebuild. 2014 Peace Sports, 26000 on odo. Rebuilt at 21000.  Has been a solid ride.

[cyborg]

I'll chime in here again,,and agree with diver,,the whole system is a friction system and should be as dry as possible except for very lite lubing on the sliding metal bosses and collars,,,all swept areas of the clutch and variator should be dry,,,find another mechanic or do it yourself,,,we'll get you thru anything a scooter can throw at you,,,,,it's our pleasure

[fufsgfen]

Feb 27, 2017 20:03:52 GMT -6 bluescootgal said:

It is doing that EXACT same thing.  No tach.  also have new variator/slides.  50cc upgraded to 100 total rebuild. 2014 Peace Sports, 26000 on odo. Rebuilt at 21000.  Has been a solid ride.

Then it sounds similar to what I had when clutch axle oil seal was not holding perfectly, you might need new clutch axle as seal wears kind of groove to axle and it will not hold then, synthetic gearbox oil leaks very easily so that kind of adds to issue.

It is possible sometimes to re-position seal pushing it tiny bit inwards, but this might lead to issues if one pushes it too far and I think that axle costs something around a tenner so it is not very expensive, but it is bit of work to replace one, usually when replacing that axle it is worth to replace gearbox bearings as it does not add much to work cost and scooter will be good for a lot more miles after that.

However if you have checked and clutch is not oily, then heavier rollers might be solution.

I had 139QMB with 100cc kit, big valve head, big carb, 12" rear wheel, high speed variator and performance rear variator unit with two set of grooves to choose, with that I did run with 8.5 gram rollers and it was just fine, with standard variator I used 7 gram rollers and it was even better, so much torque it did not need too much rpm.

Also I had set variator bushing so that I got maximum range of motion, sorry not sure about English terms.

Around 5000-5500rpm cruise and 8000-8500rpm at maximum during launch with that setup.

If rollers are light, it affects also to how well scooter will go from stand still, light rollers keep engine at higher rpm and cause clutch to engage slower so one needs more rpm.

However one should keep in mind that if clutch bell is worn, it will have same effect as light rollers on starting from standing still, rpm will be high and it will pickup quite slowly because clutch legs have to move longer distance and to move more they need more rpm because of springs fighting against clutch leg movement.


So checking clutch bell for wear and diameter (there are different ones out there make sure it is right one for the clutch) and clutch/belt for oil contamination is first step and if there are not issues, then making sure variator moves freely and full range, after that heavier rollers would be what I would do.