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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 18, 2012 19:48:15 GMT -6
Thank you for the Kudos Travler1, Do you have a performance Variator on it now? What I mean by a performance variator is one that is the same size as the Fan Pulley in other words a variator that is 4 1/2 inchs across. The Variators they come with are smaller just a little over 4 inchs. Haveing one of those you can get the belt to climb higher for more top end speed, Bigger wheel will turn a smaller wheel more turns per revolution. Mark your Variator and then run it at WOT and see how much of a mark is left. You want to shoot for no more than 1/8 of a mark left. Now if this is on a OEM Variator then putting on the 4 1/2 inch Variator you shot for the same and that will get you 4-5 mph more top end over the OEM variator. Here is how to mark the Variator to see how high the belt is currently climbing. Alleyoop
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Scooter Doc
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Post by justbuggin on Mar 18, 2012 21:02:19 GMT -6
yes allyoop is the man with carbs and the cvt systems on these scooters i have just pu an EFI system on my 150 and it woke up the bike like night and day but i think part of it was due to the fact that the exhaust valve was to thight
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 19, 2012 9:44:04 GMT -6
Well crap travler1, if your belt is only traveling up to the bottom of the marker in the picture that is LOW. You are definetly looseing 5mph. Now you do know that by putting in LIGHTER weights you will loose top end and your RPMS will be higher. I think the problem is the Variator you bought is more for the bottom end and not top end. It has to do with the angle of the ramps that the weights slide up and down in are to STEEP and takes to many RPMS to push the weights up the ramp. I have the Prodigy Variator but I never heard of the one you have " zwzh preformance variator ". Here is my Prodigy Variator notice the mark left on it: Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 19, 2012 18:54:02 GMT -6
Sure try it, but think about this, currently you have all 12gram weights in there and THEY still do not push the Variator out more how are ONLY 3 12s and 3 10.5 are going to do it. Now you could try all 13s but then that gets a little more envolved because you will loose RPMS with the 13s. With the 13s your rpms will most likely drop to around 6800 rpms and I am afraid you will even be slower.
It is all about the Variator and RPMS and you naturally do not want the motor to be screaming all the time otherwise it will not last. So its a little give and take, you either want a very strong Take off and mid-range or the max top end you can get or something in between. You give up a little low end power for more top end speed or visa versa UNLESS of course you have the power then you can play any game you want.
You saw my Prodigy picture now that was with 12gram dr. Pulley sliders and before the BIG BORE was put on and I was running right around 7200 rpms with a stock motor and bascially a free flow filter but it would run 55+. Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 19, 2012 21:31:55 GMT -6
I think you have 1 line from the Valve cover going to your AIR BOX which is the Vent for your crankcase. The other is probably coming from a canister of some kind. You must have some emission crap on that scoot if you have two lines going to the Air Box. But they are not coming from your carb. All that emission stuff can go bye-bye and have a much cleaner and less prone to problems created by them. Alleyoop
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08 roketa special edition 150
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Post by roketafan on Mar 20, 2012 18:39:30 GMT -6
Be sure to brace your carb or the intake will crack if u havnt put a solid alum one yet and u can get a200 cc motor from scrappydog for 499 just ad perf carb and cdi and 18 hp woohoo lol
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 20, 2012 18:54:54 GMT -6
Yes braceing you carb is important as well so your Intake Manifold does not crack from the bounceing of the carb. Here is my brace on my carb: Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 20, 2012 21:28:41 GMT -6
HAHAHA, love that Eagle Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 20, 2012 22:31:12 GMT -6
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