Lean or Rich? By richardthescooter2 (Read 1,955 times)

[richardthescooter2]

When idling its burping through exhaust, lean or rich?

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[Alleyoop]

WOW!! Burping at Idle that usually doesn't happen until your up there cranking. But Anyway it is LEAN, Popping is Rich.
Wile

[richardthescooter2]

Alleyoop, I just did the valve adjustment and it was ok, .004intake exhaust .006, I was have stalling issues when starting out with the throddle, until I check my air filter, (forgot to oil) now it not stalling when pulling out, still have a rough idle (sound like I have a miss in it) and while its idling, I can hear like burping, I 'm going to turn my a/f screwcounter clockwise to richen it and see what that does.

[Alleyoop]

HAHAHA, Well the BURP sound what I like to call it actuall sounds like a BURP or a FART. Its a BRAT sound and Popping well it is actually a POP.

Great!!
Yep putting oil on the Air Filter will restrict some air and match it up with the fuel it was getting.
For the Bad Idle Adjust your Fuel Ratio Screw AFTER IT HAS IDLIED FOR AT LEAST 5 minutes to allow the ENRICHER to cut off the extra fuel.
Start from where the Fuel Ratio screw is currently at and
1. First turn it 1/4 turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE and wait about 10 seconds to allow the motor catch up with the new setting AND LISTEN or check your tach.
A. If the Idle goes up REPEAT 1 Until the IDLE does not change or it STARTS to go down.
THEN TURN the screw CLOCKWISE 1/8 half of the Last 1/4 turn you did. That should be the highest idle you can get out of the Mixture.

*** NOW IF ON THE FIRST 1/4 TURN THE IDLE GOES DOWN OR DOES NOTHING TURN IT CLOCKWISE THE 1/4 TURN YOU JUST DID and REPEAT 1 BUT IN THE CLOCKWISE DIRECTION ***

Once you get the HIGHEST IDLE out of the MIXTURE you can lower the IDLE using the IDLE SPEED SCREW.

Now with the Carb set TEST it out going up a hill It may have fixed that problem as well.
But if it hasn't then Check out the FOLLOWING:
Now going up a hill if your RPMS are dropping then your weights are a little to heavy. Going up a hill the motor should hold the RPMS and you should only loose MPH.

Now if your saying it is bogging under the load going up a hill then PAY ATTENTION on the throttle:

When this Happens, back off the throttle about 1/4 inch and HOLD IT THERE.

A. If it speeds up or just then runs good it is a little LEAN on the TOP END.
B. If it stumbles, hesitates and then settles down it is a little RICH on the TOP END.

Let us know what the HAPS is
Alleyoop

[richardthescooter2]

Thanks alleyop, i'll try this and let you know, btw my manual call to oil filter and then sqeeze out. (i have the form one)

[Alleyoop]

Yes that is correct on the Oiling, you do not want it dripping oil, the oil on the filter traps the little dirt particles.
Alleyoop

[kz1000st]

I know I sound like a broken record about this but I would do the "Squirt the intake manifold with WD-40 Test". That crappy O-ring in the intake manifold is a bane to existence, especially on an older motor.

[richardthescooter2]

Thanks kz1000st, I''l give it a try

[richardthescooter2]

Kz1000st, did try the WD 40, nothing. last night I did turn my a/f screw 1/4 turn richer. in the higher speeds not stalling but twice at stop signs starting to give throddle, it stalls, and when I got to work my idle was way down to a 1,000 rpm's, had to turn it up It is not totally right, wonder if my idle jet is cloged

[kz1000st]

How is the airbox connection? Those things are sensitive to airflow from what I've seen.

[Alleyoop]

Well if its dropping the idle It is time to adjust your valves. They are starting to leak a little and they will get worse and probably start to die everytime you come to a stop or your rpms drop below 2000.
Alleyoop

[richardthescooter2]

Alleyoop, just checked the valves on Saturday, they were right on .004 intake and .006 exhaust, I also last night took off cvt cover just to make sure that everything in there was ok, look good, I trying to think if I did anything to my scoot before this happen, I did switch my vacuum line around, so last night I put them back the way they were, we will see if that makes a difference.

[richardthescooter2]

Alleyoop, not stalling now still rough idle, I think I know whats going on I think my clutch is still in gauged when stopping when I first start idle is good, it starts as soon as a move the scoot, last night I check I took off the cvt cover everthing was tight and looked good, but thinking back the clutch was still in engauged, when stop shouldn't the clutch be closed. I did take it apart once and regreased everything, should I do that vor buy another clutch

[Alleyoop]

Well if the clutch is engaging at TOO low of an rpm then I would get new springs they are probably weak and get thrown to soon. If they are sticking open you can squirt a little oil on the pivot stud and work them in and out with a screwdriver to get a smooth in and out motion.
Alleyoop

[richardthescooter2]

Thanks Alleyoop, your the best What spring am I replacing, the main spring or the clutch pad springs? Which ones do I buy? And where do I buy them?