Scooter Doc
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Post by Gti on Aug 2, 2012 19:38:08 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 2, 2012 20:04:04 GMT -6
Well the one you got WAS NOT BORED OUT WITH A BOREING TOOL I mean anyone will tell you that. Look at the waves on the case the guy must of been drinking when he did it(HAHA). I would show that picture to them and demand another caseing at LEAST that. Alleyoop
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Scooter Doc
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Post by justbuggin on Aug 2, 2012 23:21:04 GMT -6
i agree with Allyoop that the case was not bored right and the mating surface for the cylinder does not look level from side to side and the bore looks off set
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Post by Gti on Aug 3, 2012 5:39:49 GMT -6
I am definitely going to do this today. Here is my question. Since the bore was not done properly and the cylinder unable to be seated properly, COULD this have caused the piston and cylinder to become misaligned causing the damage that happened?
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Scooter Doc
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Post by justbuggin on Aug 3, 2012 7:33:52 GMT -6
YES
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Clinician
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Post by monstergy6 on Aug 3, 2012 11:32:39 GMT -6
This is Steve from MonsterGy6 taking the opportunity to respond to this thread. First of all the cases are bored out at a machine shop using the proper equipment, by NCY, not a Dremel. The cases are bored and sold in matched pairs. We have sold hundreds of the pre-bored NCY cases and have never had an issue, I have personally used them on all my custom builds, and again have never had an issue. Has anyone given any thought, that maybe this motor was not assembled professionally, by whoever put it together? After all when we build our motors we don't have enormous amounts of gasket sealer oosing out all over the place. (check the photo's) When a motor blows like this one has it will damage the cases, and make a mess. So lets not blame MonsterGy6 and the boring of these cases until we know the facts. lets also remember these cases were purchased in January, 8 months ago??
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2012 12:12:05 GMT -6
I have been buying little stuff here and there to improve the engine and calling scooterelements so much that I think of Walter as family now. He helped a great deal with getting it to that point. No problem. Always here to help. Where did you get that Cylinder kit?
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Scooter Doc
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Post by Gti on Aug 3, 2012 13:45:47 GMT -6
I never meant to cause a problem, I am a novice at building engines but I do know it does not take a rock scientist to build one of these engines. I did use a bit to much gasket sealer on this but in retrospect, I was trying to guarantee that there weren't any leaks. So if the gasket sealer determines the quality of the parts and the build, then flame on.
Walter : I bought the cylinder kit from Scrappy dog.
I was teetering between building another or to buy one from Monster, but at this point I am going to build. I bought quite a few parts and money from them and I appreciate the service, but I am going to shop elsewhere.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2012 13:51:07 GMT -6
Just seems that those cylinder walls on that kit are very thin. Usually the 62mm cylinder kits have the thickest cylinder walls for future reference. Here is my Crankcase. its kinda hard to see in the picture because of the cylinder spacer (have to modify the spacer it wont fit perfect) but the cylinder walls are suppose to be smooth all the way around a perfect circle. I took mine to a machine shop. Charged me about $35.00.
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Post by abispax on Aug 3, 2012 14:17:29 GMT -6
this is an interesting topic , for one side, i dont believe moster site would sell a case like that, but we all make mistakes from time to time, from the other side, when an engine mess up like that it makes a mess ,it probably did thet to the case, but, im no expert, maybe some folks from here can really give an opinion on wether that case was bored by hand or by a machine. My advice to monster site, contact the customer, check your cases to make sure they all are machined not by hand, make an investigation about it. lets not get all cranky in here and start blaming before we know the real facts.
And i said that because i know im one person that can mess up an engine, my bike was running smooth until i decided to change the oil myself, lost of oil started to spit everywhere, after that i decided to change the rings, and BANG a #%*!ing valve broke down and now my engine its sitting at my back patio waiting for some rebuild parts, i dont blame anyone cus i know im not the expert whos learning and thats the pricei have to pay for it...
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 3, 2012 14:28:42 GMT -6
Just seems that those cylinder walls on that kit are very thin. Usually the 62mm cylinder kits have the thickest cylinder walls for future reference. The cylinder walls are suppose to be smooth all the way around a perfect circle. Couldn't of said it better myself, now that is a job well done. I hauled my Trike 400 miles up to Wisconsin to Jims RapidRepair to have my 157QMJ Bored out and a 62bbk and 60mm Stroker put in because I could not find anyone that would do it in Illinois. 4k on the rebuild and running like a bat out of hell. Alleyoop
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Post by monstergy6 on Aug 3, 2012 18:10:13 GMT -6
These cases as I have stated are professionally machined out, and in all my 10 plus years of dealing with these motors, I can not remember seeing an engine fail with these cases, not being bored properly. There are many other issues that would have caused this motor to blow. I stand by the job NCY does on boring these cases, we have sold hundreds of them. As I stated earlier in this thread, take a good hard look at the photo's, what professional engine builder would have used all that gasket sealer, oosing out of the cases.
That dent was obviously done by that rod, pin, piston, and all the other stuff that went wrong with the way this person put this motor together, just look ho the skirts are broke off from the piston. This has absolutely nothing to do with the way this case was bored out, the cases got destroyed when the piston and cylinder came apart.
One more thing, if the boring was so bad, why did Clarence not call me up 8 months ago when he received the cases, and say he was not happy with the way the cases where bored out, instead of just going ahead and building the motor.
I stand by the way NCY bores out the cases, and we continue to uses them, and sell lots of them. Lets keep the Forum honest and fair!
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Post by justbuggin on Aug 3, 2012 20:32:13 GMT -6
i am not trying to cause any hard fellings but the man that put this motor together is not a pro that would know right off that the machine work is not right and he has done alot of post looking for help along the way putting this motor together to me i say the machine work that was done on that case was done very poorly not only the bore but the mating surface for the cylinder looks off i can say i am just looking at pics and do not have it in front of me to check i think it was a case where a bad case got past everybody before it landed in the hands of a person that was trying to do something that he has not done before and did not know what to look for i myself has had to buy a part here and there to make a build possible to do as money is not there to buy all at once
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Post by monstergy6 on Aug 3, 2012 20:37:52 GMT -6
How come nobody is looking at the possibility of the piston, rings, skirt, rod, pin, clip failure and are focusing all the attention on the boring of the cases, the least possible cause for this kind of failure, whilst looking at a photo of the cases that have been damaged by the piston skirt, pin, and rod. Am I missing something? What do you expect the cases to look like after the rod has slammed into them?
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Post by justbuggin on Aug 3, 2012 20:49:51 GMT -6
the rod slamming into the case did not cause the bore to be off set and bored out farther than it should be you can see that the bore has gone into the alignment pin location and the case is cut clean through the cam chain side of the bore and the fact the surface for the cylinder to seat to the case is not flush side to side of the case and that will cause the cylinder and piston to bind up i had do work on a few scooters and many vw air cooled motors that has smooth surfaces for the cylinders to seat and the bores have to be center over the center line off the connecting rod so that the piston is supported evenly on both side of the rod
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