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I have been out of the scooter loop for a little while and i am ready to get my engine built again. But I have a easy/hard question. When the last time I bought the crank for my engine I bought it from Walter when he has his shop in PR. I forgot the name of his shop but anyways it was a +4 crank and a 180cc "power kit,' per his instruction I had the piston milled down so I did not have to run a spacer. Lon g story short, I am looking to replace the crank in this rebuild. I do believe that I did not install it correctly and it cause a lot of problems. I want to go with a berrter quality crank so I am looking at Taida. Is the 61.3mm crank a +4 or is it a shorter stroke?

Not sure what the compression is the engine is torn down right now but getting parts ordered so we can try this again. This time no 112 octane and no other funny business either. I was just trying to make a streetable scooter to race at the track from thine to time. Some friends were giving me a hard time for trying to build it so it because about killing them at the track. Now I just want to ride.

What is swish clearance?
Yes the head and cylinder have the same bore.



Please ignore the trash talk. But that is what it scooter sounded like under load. The next day I could not get it running. Unpon tear down the woodruff key was discovered.

It has been a couple of years but I bought the +4 stroker crank from Walter at Scooter Elements (now Unique Scooter) and I bought a 180cc power kit from parts4scooters. Because I did not want to go through the issues of finding a spacer to run the stroker crank, Walter suggested that I shave the piston top, so I had the a good machine shop zero deck the cylinder with the piston at full stroke. During my build I had several issues like the inability to keep a variator on the bike and I blew the rectifier. Also getting the timing right was difficult to the point where I would get blow back between the head and cylinder at times (never constant.) So needless to say I had a hard time cranking it. I also used a high torque starter and now that I am typing this I am starting to wonder if the torque of the starter was what sheared the ops of the woodruff key off.

This is of video of the last time I think I ran it for any length of time.


Thanks Guys.

For some reason I can not key woodruff keys in tact. I have not touched my scooter build in a few years due to having some other fun but now it is time to get it going again. But the problem I was having was the woodruff keys would shear off and cause some issues. I have gone through quite a few and now I am not willing to deal with that p[problem and need a good fix. The Key way on the crank is not marred in any way and the starter clutch is identical with no problems. Just to refresh I have a gy6 n case bore to 63mm and a +4 stroker crank with the piston shaved, 6 pin starter clutch, NCY variator, NCY lightened flywheel and stator set up, NCY CDI and OKO 30mm flat side carb down jetted slightly.

This is the pin set up not sure why it didn't load in the first post. Thanks Guys!!!!!

Is that metal missing or my imagination?

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Yeah it is a 30mm with a UNI filter on it. Tomorrow I will adjust the A/F to see if that pans out. What if I play with the intake and exhaust valves a little to see if that has any affect. Right now the valves are set at .004 for intake and .005 for exhaust.