Help. My Carb Overflowed! :( PS I'm back :( By straightbangin (Read 1,486 times)

[royldoc]

I'm running out of time and have to go. Glad you got the hose to quite leaking. Some of the other folks will probably chime in to help with your other problem.

Roy

[straightbangin]

Thanks Roy, no rush, I am done dealing with the scoot for today.

[mike6736]

If you can not get local order new fuel line from Partsforscoter.com if they have it you will get it the next day, well I do but am inNew Port Richey might take 2 days for you. Just order new fuel line and filter call a dealer and get the right size and your done. Still like I said, sounds like you will have to remove the carb and clean good and with the new filter and lines your off and running.

Magoo

[straightbangin]

thanks mike. the fuel lines are fixed and the carb has been cleaned. im just having a problem with acceleration now. It wont let me go over 5mph without bogging and dieing or acting like its going to die.

[Alleyoop]

When you cleaned the carb did you take the TOP of the carb off the DIAPHGRAM. If the rubber DIAPGHRAM is not in the slot around top of the carb it will leak and it will not raise the needle out of the jet and it will act like that and no speed.

Or you can adjust the Fuel Ratio Mixture here is how to do it:
Alleyoop

Follow this procedure to tune the carb: Take your time 1/4 turn to much in either direction makes a big difference.

ADJUSTING YOUR FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:

YOU WANT THE HIGHEST RPMS OUT OF THE AIR RATIO MIXTURE SCREW:

Start your scoot and Get The Engine Nice and Hot about 5 minutes so that the Enricher IF it has one is no longer Allowing Extra Fuel to come in. Then do the following to fine tune the Fuel Ratio Mixture:

FUEL RATIO SCREW:

FIRST TRY RICHENNG THE FUEL MIXTURE FROM ITS CURRENT SETTING:

RICHEN THE FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:

1. Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.

a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #1 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).

b. TURN the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.

******If on the FIRST 1/4 TURN from the STARTING Position IN #1 ABOVE the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE , turn the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw Back the 1/4 turn to the Starting position and wait 10 seconds until the engine catches up -- GO TO #2 ******


LEAN THE FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:


2. Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.

a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #2 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).

b. TURN the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.


IF YOU GOT TO THIS POINT AND NOT INSTRUCTED TO GO TO #3 THAT MEANS THERE WAS NO CHANGE IN RPMS FROM DOING #1 or #2 ABOVE, IT IS TIME TO CLEAN THE CARB:


YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR PILOT JET AND PASSAGE AND AIR PASSAGES AND THEN START FROM #1 AGAIN.


IDLE SPEED SCREW:


The Idle Speed Screw on a Carb that are on most 4Ts you will find on the right side on the THROTTLE CONTROL WHEEL. It is the screw with a SPRING on it.


To Lower the IDLE you turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE to Raise the IDLE you turn it CLOCKWISE.


3. If after adjusting your Fuel Ratio Mixture your idle is to fast Turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE. For the 50s-150s they like to idle around 1500-1800rpms, for the 250s+ they like to idle from 1800-2000 rpms, pick the smoothest idle with the rear wheel not spinning ---GO TO #4.


TEST YOUR ADJUSTMENTS:


4. Now give the Throttle a QUICK twist and the RPMS should climb up quickly without hesitation or bogging and come down to where you set your Idle at---GO TO #5.


5. NOW take a ride and try it out, the Fuel Ratio mixture may need a tweak in either direction now that the motor has a load on it.


The tweak will be minor maybe a ¼ turn richer or leaner IF it acts up with a load---GO TO #6


6. When it acts up BACK OFF the throttle about ¼ of an INCH AND HOLD IT THERE:

a. If the motor speeds up it is LEAN you need to richen it up a little.
b. If the motor settles down and or stumbles and then settles down it is RICH you need to LEAN it out a little.
GO TO #5 AGAIN.

Problems with the IDLE:

1. Give the throttle a quick twist:
A. If the rpms drop below idle speed, then recovers (or stalls), it is RICH —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1.

B. If the rpms do not drop quickly to the idle speed but hang and drop slowly it is LEAN —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Counter Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1.

[straightbangin]

Alley I did everything you said except the first thing. I adjusted the A/F and idle speed screw and they seem fine. let me go see about that top though thanks

[Alleyoop]

Also if that hose and the way you did your tank outlet fix here is a much better way and then you can put on the right size hose that goes to the FUEL FILTER IF you keep on having trouble with it. ALL HARDWARE PARTS:
Alleyoop

[Alleyoop]

Also if that hose and the way you did your tank outlet fix here is a much better way and then you can put on the right size hose that goes to the FUEL FILTER IF you keep on having trouble with it. ALL HARDWARE PARTS:

When you adjusted your A/F DID the IDLE(RPMS) go up? The reason I ask if they do not go UP OR DOWN when going in EITHER DIRECTION means the PILOT JET and OR it's passage are CLOGGED.
Alleyoop

[straightbangin]

That looks cool Alley but the attachment to the tank is super tight and like cemented on. LOL. After stripping the scooter down and removing the tank and putting it all back together 5x in the past i never want to again unless something fails LOL. the fuel line is good right now.

I went outside to take the top off the carb and one of the screws that holds it on is totally stripped. When i felt it was stuck I tapped the screw driver with a hammer to try to crack it lose and was pressing down hard to turn but it was stripping the hell out of the screw quickly. very cheap screws apparently. I wasn't sure if i could just unscrew one and flip it open so I went to the old carb i kept which has 2 good screws to look inside and it looked like a hole with a spring in it so i can see i cant just flip it open. i may have to use the back out set to get the stripped screw out and then use the screw from the old carb to re attach it. once i get the top off what do I do? thanks.

[straightbangin]

yes it went up when i messed with the A/F but very little. i cleaned the jets.

[straightbangin]

ya it looks like i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz56/als01seville/FUEL%20and%20CARBS/Diaphgram2.jpg on my old carb, oh you were asking me if i took it off because you thought it may not be sealed properly when i put it back on. nope i never took it off, its never been removed since the carb in the scooter is a new one i replaced before i abandoned dealing with the scooter for months

when i cleaned the carb i took the jets out, soaked them in carb cleaner, spayed out the holes then made sure i could see light through the jets when I held them up. it was very hard to see light through the smaller jet. i couldnt at all after cleaning it so i took the smaller jet out of my old carb, cleaned it and i could see light through it but barely, i took the better of the two smaller jets to put back in. i tried to put a little wire in it when i was cleaning it ( from a bread wrapper) it would go in but stopped, im guessing it gets tighter on the inside?

[Alleyoop]

Take the whole thing out and check if any part of the rubber is ripped or has holes if it does then you will need a new one or use the one from the old carb. To pull it out take the spring out and stick your finger in the hole to pull it out and put it back in. Do not force it when putting in, the needle slides inside the needle guide and should just drop down. Then you will see a tab on the rubber part and you will see cut out where that goes and the edge of the rubber fits in a little slot around the edge of the top of the carb then put the top on and tigthen it down nice and SNUGE.

The pics I put up for the tank connection was just in case the one on there goes south.
Alleyoop

[straightbangin]

okay good idea with the pics in case the one on there goes south. thanks. if the top of the carb has never been opened could it be damaged in there? i drove my scooter maybe 1 mile since putting the new carb in a year go. (right after i put it in) i did what you said on the old carb just so i know what you are talking about. are you saying to do this just to check for tears or am i supposed to spray cleaner down in the hole where the needle goes?

[Alleyoop]

Just for checking for tears and or holes, sitting in the heat for a year dries the rubbers really bad when you started it and it started to work up and down might have created tiny holes and or ripped due to be dried out from YOUR FLORIDA HEAT(HAHA).
Alleyoop

[straightbangin]

ok gotcha, having a bitch of a time drilling out the one screw holding the top on. i really hate cheap, stripped screws

im glad the screw back out set has stronger bits than my regular bits. i busted 2 of them just now