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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:47:52 GMT -6
Well thats how you get it to pop up when posted but the photo is so BIG!!!!
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:50:57 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 9, 2013 20:01:52 GMT -6
Nice, good work, so it is running or what? Alleyoop
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 20:05:46 GMT -6
Hi, Alley!
Not sure yet! need to let the putty and the waterpump stuff cure for 24 hours. first. I Hope so! These were older photos Just trying to learn how to post photos. Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 11, 2013 13:06:16 GMT -6
Got the scoot back together enough now to take it for a trial run. It runs so much better now on the fast side. The Good: Gets up to 60 in a few seconds. It is unbelievably fast right now. I did not take it higher than 70 (I was on a little city street) ;D I think it will probably do 80 (90 on china meeter if I held it at WOT for any distance.... Not that I would, don;t want to stress motor) Radiator does not leak: patches seem to hold. Muffler is much better no exhaust leaks. Patch seems to hold there as well. Water pump no longer leaking. My repair work of gauge cluster seems to work fine. All gauges moving properly (except temp). Does not move any longer either. now all light indicators are working in proper places. (very happy with cluster repair) The Bad: Now my engine fan does not come on. I did nothing to it except remove while repairing radiator. I have tried moving the little wires from one side to the other on the thermostat at the bottom of radiator. No change. No real change on the low side. It does not run very smoothly under 20mph. Back fires and sputters. (through muffler). One and a while it will back fire though carb as well while on road and idle. I adjusted A/F exactly where it should be. Motor is idling around 1800-2000. SO I think idle is correct. Rear Wheel just barley starts to spin a little. Why do you think it still runs choppy at under 2500 rpm? I mean it is bearable to ride as is. Should I cut losses and button it back up and ride as is? I mainly want a bike that can run the highways anyhow. (Want to start taking longer distance trips to the coast..... once it is riding reliably enough that is). Why do you think it back fires through carb now? It is a new carb after all. What should I check on the engine fan issue? Is it connected to a fuse? Thanks again, Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 11, 2013 18:37:51 GMT -6
Been reading a lot here today. Going to try taking the clutch bell off and sanding the pads a little to see if that helps. Wish me luck! Dave
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 11, 2013 20:18:34 GMT -6
Did you happen to take off the HEADER PIPE by chance, backfiring is caused by a LEAN condition and most likely caused by the FLANGE LEAKING where it connects to the motor. You may need a new GASKET.
Check the wires going to the fan, see if it is getting 12v and make sure it is grounded. If you have the Vertical 244cc motor in there it has a fuse box check the fuses in the fuse box. That could be your fan problem as well. Alleyoop
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 12, 2013 13:07:08 GMT -6
Hi Alley,
I hate to show my ignorance. By Header pipe. Are you talking about the "intake manifold" Black rubber hose from top of motor to carb?
I did not remove that from bike but it is funny you brought that part up. While looking at motor today I saw that bolt/screw that secures the clamp is chewed up on the bolt head. Not really easy to get a screwdriver in it now.
I thought maybe that could be problem. (don't know if it is tight) SO I tried to tighten it. About the time I touched the screwdriver to the screw, the scoot back fired through the carb. I don't know if coincidence or maybe problem you spoke of.
I took of CVT box today and removed bell. Clutch pads were smooth and about 1/2 inch in width from bottom of "shoe". I roughed them up with 220 grit sand paper. No noticeable change in operation, at low speeds.
Fan is working now. I took the wires apart at the plug connection today and re set them. I also swapped the leads going from the temp sensor.
I changed the coolent water to "universal", from the green water that was in it previously. It seems to rise much more slowly now to hot temp. Could water be better than what ever was in before?
Making progress. Thanks for you interest and advice Alley. I am very appreciative of it. Dave
P.S. It runs like a scalded cat at high speeds. It has never ran as good on the fast side as now. IDKW?
Oh ya, 257cc linhai clone. Horizontal motor.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 12, 2013 16:48:18 GMT -6
This is the FLANGE where it connects to the motor #1, #2 is the INTAKE MANIFOLD which bolts to the intake port on the head and the carb attachs ti it. Alleyoop #1 #2
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 12, 2013 19:42:32 GMT -6
Hello Alleyoop, Thank you for the illustrations and explanations. I did not remove that pipe now that I know what you are talking about. It was a little loose so at one point I snugged it up a little with a crescent wrench. I did not tork it down for fear of damaging the gasket inside. Should I take it down and inspect the gasket? It does seem Like it works itself a little loose now and then because I have snugged it down a few times. I did not remove because I do not know where to find a replacement gasket Thanks again, Lastly I do not have a Muffler (per-see) There is a Thrush "Cherry bomb" reduced down to the size of the exhaust pipe. There is no leaks now from the muffler itself I am sure. Would that pipe still cause bakfires if loose? Since the muffler is basically a wide open resonator tube? Man I got to tell you it sounds Nice! ;D Dave
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 12, 2013 23:02:05 GMT -6
You may like the sound but no backpressure is causing the backfiring you basically have a straight through pipe but not good for your exhaust valve if it is backfiring It will damage the exhasut valve. Alleyoop
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 13, 2013 11:05:15 GMT -6
It used to backfire out the muffler when I first bought the scoot. At that time it had stock muffler. I did valve job, put on glass pac and back fire went away. Has not backfired again until the last running. (That was when Muffler came almost completely undone from exhast pipe because of stripped out shackle bolts and washboard roads, like I stated in first posting.
Pipe has been on almost the entire time I had scoot. It never backfired at all not even one time, not even during decel, until this last time. It could be as you say, but I do not think so....Unless something else broke in valve when the muffler shook loose?
Could we keep checking for other causes? I can always put old muffler back on if you say to. In fact I did once not to long ago and it made no noticeable difference in drive ability at all.
What I found today: There is about a 1/2" crack in the rubber intake manifold. Going into the front of the carb. The crack sits between the clamp bracket and the iron portion inside the manifold itself. I can not tell if the crack goes all the way through, the rubber is very thick there. When you look inside you can see creases in the rubber. I am not sure if they are cracks also but they would be where the carb slides into the manifold.
Thanks again Alley. Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 14, 2013 11:29:32 GMT -6
I am the biggest horses arse to ever mosey down the Chisholm trail! Scoot is fixed. After all that it turns out that the road that giggled loose the muffler also giggled loose the SPARK PLUG for crying out loud! So I found while tightening the boot on the coil wire. I noticed that the plug was moving. When I touched it with hands I learned that the plug was completely undone and just sitting in the plug hole. I don't know how it ran at all but it did. Took it for a spin and it is all back. Thanks for your all your help Alleyoop again. I shall be closing out this thread now. If other issues arise I'll open a new one. Good luck all you fellow rookies out there. Check your plugs so you don't feel like as big a fool as I feel right now (bike completely tore down to frame......for a loose plug! Bye all, Dave ;D
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