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Post by luvmyscoot on Oct 8, 2013 21:46:28 GMT -6
Alleyoop and Company, I just stopped by to tell you all, thank you for your help getting my scoot back on the road to happiness. Since my last “funky” post I have had very little trouble with my scooter and have practically doubled the miles on the odom. I am now over 6100 and climbing daily. Since it is now riding much better it has been a real joy to own. I zoom past most cars on the freeway. (I don’t really know how it is possible). I have been to Monterey, the mountains, lakes, and the foothills around my central valley home. It is my daily driver to work. I even took it on a back country dirt and gravel mountain trail over the Santa Lucia mountain range (it was an accident) I was trying to get to the coast from Kerman and ended up on this dirt trail in the back country. I should have turned around but that would be like admitting defeat. It was only 22 miles of dirt and rock up the side of a mountain… I dropped down into the Pinnacles National park!!!! Yikes Since the season is winding down and the cold and rain should start soon, I am planning on doing a tear down of the clutch and replacing the shoes they are getting smooth and thin. I have sanded them a few times to rough them up some. I am occasionally getting a squeaky vroom on a hard excel. Hopefully I can find just the shoes, so far I am finding the whole clutch assembly and that is back in the few hundred dollar range. I want to rewire an ignition key back on. I have the key assembly already mounted I just need to take off some Tupperware to run wires. I also need to get into the dash again and open up the panel. I had a bulb go out and I have been too lazy to tear it all down for a little 1.50 bulb. I will change the oil (s) and plug as well as clean the air filter. I have been reading about a “racing cdi and coil” is this marketing or will it make any difference at all? Carb still has a whuffle every now and again, It is not really a back fire more like a burp. I am not planning on trying to isolate it (I changed the carb and it still there). It does not seem to affect the operation other than a momentary drop in rpm once in a while. Anyways Ally, (and all) thanks again for helping me. Dave Attachments:
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 14, 2013 11:29:32 GMT -6
I am the biggest horses arse to ever mosey down the Chisholm trail! Scoot is fixed. After all that it turns out that the road that giggled loose the muffler also giggled loose the SPARK PLUG for crying out loud! So I found while tightening the boot on the coil wire. I noticed that the plug was moving. When I touched it with hands I learned that the plug was completely undone and just sitting in the plug hole. I don't know how it ran at all but it did. Took it for a spin and it is all back. Thanks for your all your help Alleyoop again. I shall be closing out this thread now. If other issues arise I'll open a new one. Good luck all you fellow rookies out there. Check your plugs so you don't feel like as big a fool as I feel right now (bike completely tore down to frame......for a loose plug! Bye all, Dave ;D
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 13, 2013 11:05:15 GMT -6
It used to backfire out the muffler when I first bought the scoot. At that time it had stock muffler. I did valve job, put on glass pac and back fire went away. Has not backfired again until the last running. (That was when Muffler came almost completely undone from exhast pipe because of stripped out shackle bolts and washboard roads, like I stated in first posting.
Pipe has been on almost the entire time I had scoot. It never backfired at all not even one time, not even during decel, until this last time. It could be as you say, but I do not think so....Unless something else broke in valve when the muffler shook loose?
Could we keep checking for other causes? I can always put old muffler back on if you say to. In fact I did once not to long ago and it made no noticeable difference in drive ability at all.
What I found today: There is about a 1/2" crack in the rubber intake manifold. Going into the front of the carb. The crack sits between the clamp bracket and the iron portion inside the manifold itself. I can not tell if the crack goes all the way through, the rubber is very thick there. When you look inside you can see creases in the rubber. I am not sure if they are cracks also but they would be where the carb slides into the manifold.
Thanks again Alley. Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 12, 2013 19:42:32 GMT -6
Hello Alleyoop, Thank you for the illustrations and explanations. I did not remove that pipe now that I know what you are talking about. It was a little loose so at one point I snugged it up a little with a crescent wrench. I did not tork it down for fear of damaging the gasket inside. Should I take it down and inspect the gasket? It does seem Like it works itself a little loose now and then because I have snugged it down a few times. I did not remove because I do not know where to find a replacement gasket Thanks again, Lastly I do not have a Muffler (per-see) There is a Thrush "Cherry bomb" reduced down to the size of the exhaust pipe. There is no leaks now from the muffler itself I am sure. Would that pipe still cause bakfires if loose? Since the muffler is basically a wide open resonator tube? Man I got to tell you it sounds Nice! ;D Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 12, 2013 13:07:08 GMT -6
Hi Alley,
I hate to show my ignorance. By Header pipe. Are you talking about the "intake manifold" Black rubber hose from top of motor to carb?
I did not remove that from bike but it is funny you brought that part up. While looking at motor today I saw that bolt/screw that secures the clamp is chewed up on the bolt head. Not really easy to get a screwdriver in it now.
I thought maybe that could be problem. (don't know if it is tight) SO I tried to tighten it. About the time I touched the screwdriver to the screw, the scoot back fired through the carb. I don't know if coincidence or maybe problem you spoke of.
I took of CVT box today and removed bell. Clutch pads were smooth and about 1/2 inch in width from bottom of "shoe". I roughed them up with 220 grit sand paper. No noticeable change in operation, at low speeds.
Fan is working now. I took the wires apart at the plug connection today and re set them. I also swapped the leads going from the temp sensor.
I changed the coolent water to "universal", from the green water that was in it previously. It seems to rise much more slowly now to hot temp. Could water be better than what ever was in before?
Making progress. Thanks for you interest and advice Alley. I am very appreciative of it. Dave
P.S. It runs like a scalded cat at high speeds. It has never ran as good on the fast side as now. IDKW?
Oh ya, 257cc linhai clone. Horizontal motor.
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 11, 2013 18:37:51 GMT -6
Been reading a lot here today. Going to try taking the clutch bell off and sanding the pads a little to see if that helps. Wish me luck! Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 11, 2013 13:06:16 GMT -6
Got the scoot back together enough now to take it for a trial run. It runs so much better now on the fast side. The Good: Gets up to 60 in a few seconds. It is unbelievably fast right now. I did not take it higher than 70 (I was on a little city street) ;D I think it will probably do 80 (90 on china meeter if I held it at WOT for any distance.... Not that I would, don;t want to stress motor) Radiator does not leak: patches seem to hold. Muffler is much better no exhaust leaks. Patch seems to hold there as well. Water pump no longer leaking. My repair work of gauge cluster seems to work fine. All gauges moving properly (except temp). Does not move any longer either. now all light indicators are working in proper places. (very happy with cluster repair) The Bad: Now my engine fan does not come on. I did nothing to it except remove while repairing radiator. I have tried moving the little wires from one side to the other on the thermostat at the bottom of radiator. No change. No real change on the low side. It does not run very smoothly under 20mph. Back fires and sputters. (through muffler). One and a while it will back fire though carb as well while on road and idle. I adjusted A/F exactly where it should be. Motor is idling around 1800-2000. SO I think idle is correct. Rear Wheel just barley starts to spin a little. Why do you think it still runs choppy at under 2500 rpm? I mean it is bearable to ride as is. Should I cut losses and button it back up and ride as is? I mainly want a bike that can run the highways anyhow. (Want to start taking longer distance trips to the coast..... once it is riding reliably enough that is). Why do you think it back fires through carb now? It is a new carb after all. What should I check on the engine fan issue? Is it connected to a fuse? Thanks again, Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 20:05:46 GMT -6
Hi, Alley!
Not sure yet! need to let the putty and the waterpump stuff cure for 24 hours. first. I Hope so! These were older photos Just trying to learn how to post photos. Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:50:57 GMT -6
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:47:52 GMT -6
Well thats how you get it to pop up when posted but the photo is so BIG!!!!
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:46:48 GMT -6
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 9, 2013 19:44:33 GMT -6
Hay-Ya everybody:
I had a productive day today working on the scoot. I woke early because it’s been soooooo hot lately.
I took the muffler off today the original paint or powder coat that was on it was starting to change to ugly! I got some high heat barbeque paint (flat black) from the home depot. The bottle says it goes up to 1200 degrees, I don’t think our mufflers get that hot. Looks much better now, I must say. While installing the muffler back on while lying on the ground I caught a glimpse of daylight from the other end of the pipe. (Drat, that means I had an exhaust leak. So I ran to the Auto parts shop and bought a can of this putty like stuff that you stuff into the exhaust leak and it cures within 24 hours. (According to the can will outlast the muffler; I’ll believe that when I see it).
No more sunlight through the muffler. The leak was up near the front shackle of the muffler.
As previously reported the bike is mainly in pieces right now. My radiator had a few small leaks when I got it. 1 can of alumaseal fixed the problem temporarily. I did not like the long neon green trail down the sides of the radiator (the alumaseal that escaped before the hole was plugged).
Seriously it looked like somebody blew their nose and let it run down the side of my radiator. Not cool at all.
So I used the left over muffler putty on the holes in the radiator. Radiators don’t get as hot as mufflers so I think it should work. Not sure about the pressure and hot water in the radiator against the dried putty but I’ll just have to see what happens. It looks much better now anyways, and the putty dried hard as steel. I think it’ll work for while anyways, I put it on THICK.
After repair I reattached the radiator, fan and inspected and attached all the coolant hoses. I re taped with black elec tape all the exposed wires and connections from the fan and thermostat to the harness.
I pulled the waterpump off and apart (Geez, it looks almost exactly like the one on my old Evinrude 60's era outboard. Very easy to take apart. I cleaned some of the corrosion/ alumaseal residue off with a flat blade and scraped off the old red silicone that somebody previously had used. It failed down near the lowest bolt. I got some new water pump silicon from the parts store (good thing the shop is a min and a half from my home) and put it all back together. It needs to cure for 24 as well.
While talking to my friend in the shop, he told me how to actually use the feeler gage properly. When I had tested the bottom valve it was set at .005 by my gage. But it was a tight squeeze to get the .005 in there. He said that you should lightly feel the gage get “bitten” by the valve. He told me that most likely my reading of a tight .005 was probably a .004 in real life. .004 Which could have contributed to the bike not riding at under 2k rpm.
They had a sale on Mobile Super (oil), 2.49 a quart (usually about 6 or 7 bux) so I bought 2 and did an oil change as well.
Since I did the oil, I figured in for a dollar in for a donut and I drained and refilled the gear-case with fresh Valvoline gear oil as well. I had already had it in the garage.
Tomorrow I’ll refill the coolant and see what she does when fired up.
I want to practice uploading photos so here is a few photos of my scoot. It was badly abused silver scoot when I got it. I repainted it to a pretty black and red that you see in photos. 4 rattle cans of paint and 5 cans of clear coat gave me a finish I am not ashamed of. No wet sanding or cutting required. I just sprayed on and then buffed out a week or two later with wax and rubbing compound. Thanks for listening to me ramble! ;D Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 6, 2013 12:07:20 GMT -6
Thanks Alley, Well at least we are making some progress. I had a really long day today so I am not going to be able to tinker with it until hopefully tomorrow morning after work or Saturday. Unless you think I should work doing something more on the carb or vac after I upload photos, I plan to repair a small leak in the radiator and re install cooling system and coolant next. Question: The water pump has a small leak behind the lower allen bolt. I just noticed it the last day before I took the whole thing apart. It seemed to me that it leaked less after I tightened it down. I was hesitant to cinch way down, I do not wish to break a bolt. Is there a gasket or something behind the waterpump housing? Can I cut a new one from sheet gasket "paper" or use gasket maker squirt tube, or should I buy a new water pump now? Thanks as usual for your sage advice.... I know I am laying it on thick but I am very appreciative of all the knowledge you and the others bring here for the benefit of us Noobs ;D Dave
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 5, 2013 20:17:54 GMT -6
here is a photo of one that is close Alley. Need to run to work. Dave Attachments:
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Post by luvmyscoot on Jun 5, 2013 17:14:03 GMT -6
No, Alley it does not. The ACV valve is not present on mine.
Also the carb drain comes at about a 45 degree angle out of the bottom. The drain screw "I think" is in a different location as well. It also looks much different from the one in the photo. It is a solid screw " more like the AF mixture screw if that makes any sense. It also seems to be "out a little ways from the casing. " like it is in the open position. although I do have that hose kinked so there could not be a leak.
My eldest daughter has the camera again. I'll try to get a photo or two soon.
there is one other connection of some sort on this carb as well.
In the front of the carb towards the side of the intake manifold. It comes straight down. It is cylindrical and then makes like a triangle shape at the tip. I can not see very well but it must have a hole in the tip. coming out directly on top of this fitting/nipple is a flat copper blade. it looks like something plugs into this nipple and the blade at the same time.
I'll get photos it is hard to explain. Dave
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