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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 18, 2013 22:31:17 GMT -6
If you turn up the IDLE and it quits it is not getting enough gas. Turn the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
But do this FIRST, turn it CLOCKWISE until it stops and then turn it out 2 1/2 turns. That should be plenty for it to start and idle and it may run pretty good at that setting. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 20, 2013 19:53:31 GMT -6
I finally got near it, and there is a flat piece of metal where the screw should be. I can see it's a deeply recessed screw in the pics, but when I got close and used my little dental mirror there was no groove in it for a screw. Is this right? Is it the wrong place? BTW that is a reflection across it in the pic. I ran my finger across is, moved the light to a different angle, etc. There is no screw groove there.
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 20, 2013 20:29:21 GMT -6
BUMMER, you have a plugged Fuel Ratio Mixture screw. You have 2 choices, either drill out the plug and hope the screw behind it has a slot (SOME DON'T they left them flat no slot) if that is the case you have to unscrew it out anyway you can and then make a slot in the head or just take it out and order a screw with the slot. OR you can get an aftermarket carb with the screw not plugged. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 21, 2013 11:18:12 GMT -6
Another source has told me that it's just a cover that I can pop out with an ice pick. Cross your fingers!
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Post by steelblade on Aug 22, 2013 20:16:15 GMT -6
Kinda hard to see, but is the screw supposed to be recessed like that? I couldn't tell for sure and it getting dark anyway. It WAS some kind of cover like a freezer plug. There is a groove on the top that supposed to let you pop it out.
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 22, 2013 21:12:34 GMT -6
Got to admit that screw is in pretty deep in the well. Normally the plug is about 1/8 of an inch thick right up against the screw behind it. Must be really trying not to have customers get at it I guess. But they don't realize that in different parts of the US a different mixture is required for the motors to run. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 24, 2013 11:22:38 GMT -6
I couldn't turn it at first (This was after 2 days of trying to find a screwdriver that would fit in the limited area) because it was already all the way it. Once I turned it the other way it started moving. Turned 2 1/2 turns and no change. Turned it in and tried 1 then 1 1/2 turns and no change.
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 24, 2013 11:32:34 GMT -6
Ok, if no change that usually points to the PILOT JET and ITS PASSAGES are clogged. so take the carb bowl off and take the Pilot jet out and make sure you can see daylight through it. Then Spray Carb Cleaner in the Hole that the Pilot Jet screws into and SPRAY should come out by the TINY FUEL OUTLETS for the PILOT JET by the Butterfly. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 24, 2013 12:09:42 GMT -6
I'm not sure we're running down the right rabbit hole. The engine has less than 1 full hour of total run time since purchase. I can't see how the jets can be clogged.
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Post by vonz4 on Aug 24, 2013 20:30:36 GMT -6
I have the same scooter, and when I first got it, ran well with no issues for a few startups. Pretty quickly though, developed the same issue you seem to be having (stalls, but would start again after sitting for awhile). Like most I thought fuel delivery, but while sitting on the side of the road with nothing else to do (lol) I checked all lines again and found one of the vacuum lines that ran back to the gas tank on the right (throttle side) had a slight kink in it and was partially hidden. part of the emissions system. After I cut out the excess length and reconnected...no more issue.
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 24, 2013 20:44:51 GMT -6
Any Fuel line and or Vacuum line kinked is going to cause a fuel delivery problem. But one has to assume some of your basics checks have been made. Unconnected hoses, broken hoses and or kinked and or some kind of restrictions on the hoses. So the assumption is all of the basic has been checked prior to messing with the carb for a fuel delivery problem. Just because it is new does not mean it does not have a faulty carb for all we know the passage in the carb could be plugged. If the ENRICHER is good it should start and idle until it shuts off in about 3-4 minutes. One thing you can do is take the ENRICHER off lay it on its side cover the hole with your THUMB and hold it there and try starting it. KEEP THE THUMB OVER THE HOLE and if starts let it idle for about five minutes THEN TAKE YOUR FINGER OFF THE HOLE. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 24, 2013 22:27:27 GMT -6
I just checked that hose tonight, but I'll double check others. Several are way longer than they need to be.
I looked up (or tried to) enricher over at eagle atv parts but couldn't find it. Does it have any other names that will help me identify it?
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 24, 2013 22:35:42 GMT -6
The ENRICHER is the BLACK thing with 2 wires comeing out of it on the side of the carb. LOOK at the 2nd post you posted above and look at the CARB pic on the left it say AUTOMATIC CHOKE take that off and lay it on it's side. Now look at the PLUNGER and NEEDLE it has. The Plunger should be like even with the rubber holder OR IS THE TOP OF THE PLUNGER ABOUT 1/4 INCH away from the BLACL RUBBER HOLDER? NOW cover the HOLE with your thumb and see if the motor starts. If it starts keep your thumb over the hole for at least 5 minutes then take it off and it will probably die. NOW LOOK AT THE PLUNGER AND NEEDLE on the ENRICHER DID IT MOVE OUT OR NOT. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Aug 25, 2013 9:54:14 GMT -6
This may take a while. The enricher is so tightly screwed in that it just stripped the blades off of one of my screwdrivers. 'Cos clearly I need more drama.
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Post by steelblade on Aug 25, 2013 10:12:19 GMT -6
And the drama continues. I got my good and tough gunsmith screwdrivers and now the inside of the screw is stripped out.
What did they do? Use an air tool to put those in? For real?
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