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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 25, 2013 11:02:28 GMT -6
HAHAHAHA, here is a trick that will loosen them up and it works with any hard to get out of screws. Put your screwdriver in and give the handle a nice little wack with say a hammer . That will push the threads down and loosen the screw works like a charm. Alleyoop
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by steelblade on Aug 25, 2013 14:11:29 GMT -6
I have to move the bike into storage for a couple weeks. I may yet be able to try that, though. If not I have some of those reverse drills for cutting those out. Just no time for it with the trip coming up.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by steelblade on Sept 8, 2013 10:52:01 GMT -6
Spoke to a local small engine expert and the end result is that the new fuel hose IS too large. The originals are 1/8" stretched over 1/4" fittings like I thought. The carb adjustment was all the way in originally, and would have to go FARTHER in to compensate for the larger hose. When I get time to change the hoses back I'll report back.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by steelblade on Dec 4, 2013 18:15:37 GMT -6
Whew! Much drama, but I think I got this sorted out.
It idles high, then low, then I have to be patient while it warms up. Varies on temp. Texas sun will let it start and go nearly asap. Colder weather takes a few.
Had my friend run over it, tweaked the idle and airflow, etc, and it seems to be fine now.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
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Post by Alleyoop on Dec 4, 2013 21:10:12 GMT -6
If the IDLE BOUNCES and keeps on bouncing up and down it is TO LEAN turn the fuel ratio Screw Counter Clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until it does not bounce anymore. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Dec 8, 2013 17:26:08 GMT -6
Did that. Mostly, in colder (seems like 50 or less) is needs time to idle and warm up. The autochoke cutting out isn't long enough, it needs another 2-3 minutes after that.
I'm hoping I don't have to resort to changing the idle when the weather changes.
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Post by Alleyoop on Dec 8, 2013 17:45:51 GMT -6
Like I said if the IDLE bounces when you start it up or anytime it is IDLING it is running LEAN at that point. TWO things will cause that the Fuel Ratio Mixture is to LEAN or you have a AIR LEAK. If the IDLE bouncing goes away after it warms up then it is an AIR LEAK and due to the heat expanding the part that has the AIR LEAK and sealing. Alleyoop
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Post by steelblade on Jan 5, 2014 9:17:54 GMT -6
Got the bike running. It WAS an airflow problem, put the setting all the way in like OEM standard had it. Runs great now.
Now to get the apartment to deal with the damage caused by one of their tow trucks knocking it over.
Cos clearly I am not having enough drama with this bike.
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