Wildfire 50cc WFH50-S2 [Starts, Then Dies] By mikey34 (Read 13,288 times)

[mikey34]

Hello, My name is Mike. I recently was given this Wildfire Scooter(50cc) S2. It was left in the elements for over 8 months. It would not start when I first got it. I took off the carb, cleaned it. checked the petcock, works(flows with vacuum applied, closes when not). Checked ALL wires for a loose connection, have not found one.

I am starting to think its the electronic choke, I haven't connected it to a 12v source to see if it slowly moves... but would that cause it to run for a few seconds and die? It acts like it is starved for gas but the flow dosen't seem to have a problem...

I have cleaned the carb twice, Everything is clear, both Jets... I am some what mechanically inclined, and to ME, it dies like its got a grounded connection or bad connection to the IGN maybe???

Thank you so much in advance for any input, I know these aren't the best scooters, but you can't beat FREE99!

[Alleyoop]

Welcome Mikey34,
Good to have you on the forum,
Concerning your 50cc 4 stroke, have you adjusted the valves on it, if not do that first set them both to .003 inchs. Now cleaning the jets is not good enough Sitting for eight months the tiny pilot jet fuel outlets by the Butterfly are probably all clogged with varnish. Take the Pilot jet out and get a can of carb cleaner they come with a long thin straw, stick the straw into the hole and spray and clear out the tiny outlets by the butterfly.



Then Turn the fuel ratio mixture screw clockwise until it stops then turn it out 2 -2 1/2 counter clockwise and see how it starts and idles.
Alleyoop

[mikey34]

When I did clean the carb, I took a bread-tie and ran it through the main and pilot jet, But I will def try it again and soak this puppy in carb cleaner.

I have never even checked the valves, and now I'm finding out that I prolly should've done this first lol. I have now heard these things come out of the factory with almost closed valves.

Ive never adjusted the valves or even attempted to, you wouldn't have any pics or video on it would you?

Thank you for the advice BTW, and glad to be here, hopefully there's a thing or two I can contribute on!

[Alleyoop]

Here you go actually a 50c valve adjustment right up your alley. Although all valve adjustments are the same get the piston up at top dead center and get the right feeler gauge gap size and away you go.
Alleyoop

[mikey34]

Thank you So Much Alley, I got it running today, and I can actually keep it running, I just don't get it man, the only thing I did was pull a really hard vacuum on the petcock, I had a pretty good flow of gas before I did this though...

Now that I have it going, its a little rough to start it cold, and sometimes it runs faster than others, on flat ground. I'm hoping that a valve adjustment will cure this too.

Now to grab a headlight bulb, and and new battery, my leg will thank me to have an electric start haha

[Alleyoop]

That is GREAT GOOD JOB:

If the rpms are going up and down at IDLE it is LEAN. To adjust the Fuel Ratio Mixture you want to start it LET IT WARM up at least 5 minutes.
Then Turn the FUEL RATIO SCREW 1/4 counter clockwise and see if the IDLE GOES UP.
If it does REPEAT the 1/4 turns UNTIL the idle does NOT GO UP then turn it CLOCKWISE 1/8 turn.

If after you get the HIGHEST IDLE from the adjustment the REAR WHEEL IS SPINNING turn the IDLE down USING THE IDLE SPEED SCREW. That is the screw on the THROTTLE SIDE with the SPRING UNDER IT. Turn that a little COUNTER CLOCKWISE so your REAR WHEEL is NOT SPINNING. You just want the REAR WHEEL wanting to turn or turn very very slowly.

The Valve adjustment will help starting it cold plus adjusting the Fuel Mixture will also help for easier starts.
Alleyoop

[mudmobster]

Aug 26, 2013 22:59:40 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

That is GREAT GOOD JOB:

If the rpms are going up and down at IDLE it is LEAN. To adjust the Fuel Ratio Mixture you want to start it LET IT WARM up at least 5 minutes.
Then Turn the FUEL RATIO SCREW 1/4 counter clockwise and see if the IDLE GOES UP.
If it does REPEAT the 1/4 turns UNTIL the idle does NOT GO UP then turn it CLOCKWISE 1/8 turn.

If after you get the HIGHEST IDLE from the adjustment the REAR WHEEL IS SPINNING turn the IDLE down USING THE IDLE SPEED SCREW. That is the screw on the THROTTLE SIDE with the SPRING UNDER IT. Turn that a little COUNTER CLOCKWISE so your REAR WHEEL is NOT SPINNING. You just want the REAR WHEEL wanting to turn or turn very very slowly.

The Valve adjustment will help starting it cold plus adjusting the Fuel Mixture will also help for easier starts.
Alleyoop

very helpfull to all us newbies

[mikey34]

Yes sir, Just got back from the hardware store with my new gauges! Time to adjust these valves.

I did tune the carb and Idle speed, I have a slight spin when at idle. Until the engine is warm, it tries to die when stopped unless I keep the throttle slightly open, but Im thinking that could my idle screw or valve issue.

After I am happy with the way its running, I plan on replacing all my gaskets, I'm sure it could use it. also gonna go ahead and get the replacement CDI and coil package Ive been seeing, ALLEY, have you seen the ORANGE CDI and Coil package??? THANKS AGAIN MAN!

[Alleyoop]

Nice going Mikey,
And yes the having to keep some throttle at stops is a CLASSIC CASE of your exhaust valve being tight and loosing compression. When this happens it will not hold idle and will die or want to die when coming to stops.
Alleyoop

[mikey34]

I successfully adjusted the valves to .005, it was confusing at first, in the video, the guy says he is tuning his to .05, lol so I thought that would have been a pretty big gap haha

Before I adjusted the valves, I was lucky to get up to 25mph, I figured that was all I was gonna get out of 50cc.

AFTER I adjusted the valves, I peg the Speedo at an inch past 40MPH! Blew my mind! So now I am fixing all the smaller things, Do you have any Idea what the small ROUND, BLACK, thing that is right behind the left handle bar, I BELIEVE, its a flasher for the turn signals, but anyway I replaced the headlight and noticed it was REALLY buzzing and making a racket, So I disconnected it from the harness, it has three wires coming out of it, GRN BLK GRY???

[Alleyoop]

FANTASTIC!! Picked up quite a bit of power on you GREAT. No tickets now ;D


That button faceing forward is your High beam Flasher. The Buzzing sound is your TURN SIGNAL FLASHER, you can pick one up at any auto parts store. Just check how many connectors it has 2 or 3 and get one with the same number of connectors get a 12v one.
Alleyoop

[mikey34]

Thats what I figured. Thank you so much Alley, you have been an amazing help!

Now I'm looking at the 150cc complete engine and thinking about a swap, I would love to be able to jump on the local highway here.

I think this one \/
www.scootercatalog.com/150ccengine.html

should bolt right up, right? Do you think this would be the best route? Or a BBK? THANKS!

-----PS-----
BTW, I looked at the manual for my WFH50-S2, and it calls for the valve measurement to be 006 for INTAKE and 008 for EXHAUST.
Should I set them to that? THANKS Alley

[Alleyoop]

Just get the measurements for it from mount to mount and front mount to rear mount. And make sure the REAR SHAFT is the same length as yours sticking out. Also that one takes a DRUM break setup so as long as yours is also a drum break. Many make the mistake and get the wrong motor due to the brake setup.

But if that motor fits I would go with the 150 motor no IFs or BUTs about it. You will automatically crank at 50+ and they are easy to mod on top of that. You can easly get them to 60mph.

As far as the Valves if it is running as good as you say LEAVE GOOD ENOUGH ALONE. Getting to 40 on a 50 most have to put in at least a 72cc bbk or better.
Alleyoop

[mikey34]

Aug 28, 2013 13:36:28 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

As far as the Valves if it is running as good as you say LEAVE GOOD ENOUGH ALONE. Getting to 40 on a 50 most have to put in at least a 72cc bbk or better.
Alleyoop

I will check with GPS on my phone, BUT if the speedo on this thing is right, Ill take a picture and show ya, it stops at 40MPH, and I'm easily an inch after that... I CANNOT Believe this thing is a 50cc...

[mikey34]

I picked up a flasher also, but I went cheap and get a 2 terminal, and can't get a 12volt reading on any of the 3 wires, instead, I am getting about 6.5volts, BUT I was wondering if the turn signals require a 12volt source from the battery. Everything else(Brake light, headlight-high and low, Horn) works on engine only. So my guess would be the Starter and Turn Signals run on battery?