SUNL SL250-22 Electrical By dubbadee (Read 976 times)

[dubbadee]

Hello, I've been browsing the forum for some time and have just created an account to try to get some help on my 2008 SUNL SL250-22. Paid $800 about a month ago, 4k miles. My first issue was when the headlights went out. Traced it back to the fuse, which was melted, replaced and reinforced fuses which brought the lights back. Next issue: the link fuse from the battery blew and then the battery also wouldn't hold a charge. So I got a new battery but something is still draining it, as it won't start in the morning unless it has been on the charger overnight. The right side has some damage, including a cracked headlight reflector which was in turn melted by the light. It seems the prior owner swapped out the stock 25w bulbs with 35w halogens (which still suck) and didn't convert anything to LED. So, today I bought LED cluster tail, turn and brake lights. The rear lights work fine but the 2 front signals wouldn't come on at all with the LEDs. This (finally) brings me to my current questions:

1. Why would LEDs work fine in the rear flashers but not the front? Do I need a relay or load equilizer?

2. I've seen LOTS of posts on this subject but please enlighten me again....what can I do to upgrade the headlights? They are the kind which dim at idle (and I need to clean that carb. Another post...) as do the taillights, which is kind of a bummer. What is the best way run them DC either to a toggle or the ignition? Will my system handle it? Not sure what pin stator I have. How to tell?

3. Short of running the lighting off of DC, what is the best lamp for the existing headlight configuration? Stock is 25w/25w incandescent (terrible), currently upgraded to halogen 35w/35w (not much better). What do you guys think and please keep it affordable

Thank you so much for any help, and for the info I've already gotten from the forum.

DD
OB, CA

[dubbadee]

Well, I solved Problem #1. The polarity was switched on the front turn signals. I snipped the wires after the connector, swapped 'em, and Disco! Front LED turn signals

[Guitarman]

Good job fixing the turn signal LEDs.

I just went thru this very thing with my headlights. I strongly recomend a HID system. Look them up on ebay. Make sure that you get a full kit and that it's made for motorcycles/scooters.

HID is 10x brighter than halogen.
HID = High Intensity Discharge. The bulb is filled with Xenon gas and works the same as a fluorescent tube.

[kz1000st]

So I got a new battery but something is still draining it, as it won't start in the morning unless it has been on the charger overnight.

You have to check the current when running. It should read 12.5 volts across the battery when the engine is off and 13+ volts when running. If it doesn't you have either a bad regulator/rectifier or stator.

[bhinch]

I installed HID's and LED's in the rear stop and turn. My reading running down the road is 13.0 volts and I have no starting problems. The 35 w...HID's....H4...9003...HI/LO with relay...Bi-Xenon are from an automotive HID kit. The bike or car does not know what the Kit was packaged for. Ebay has a ton of kits to choose from. Not a hard install and you will love the light. Life is Good...

[Alleyoop]

Nov 8, 2013 0:46:49 GMT -6 dubbadee said:

Well, I solved Problem #1. The polarity was switched on the front turn signals. I snipped the wires after the connector, swapped 'em, and Disco! Front LED turn signals

Would it not have been easier just to flip them around?
Alleyoop