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Post by sabotendar on Mar 31, 2014 14:48:32 GMT -6
Well without stator voltage readings how fo you know you need a cdi . John This time i have to find a carb to put that scooter working again soon i replace the carb i will put the voltages from stator my idea make a adaptation to fit a better carb whitout eletronic enricher, today was a busy day im my work so i have a litle time to talk to you guys but tomorrow i will do a pilgrimage here to find a blacksmith to fabric a new admission colector or modify what i have..Sabotendar. |
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 31, 2014 16:06:01 GMT -6
I wonder if its JR's spam server LOL  John Ok parts man don't make me show you up on finding this CDI!  Show me up JR I don't have that one , however with the correct info I think a sub can be made to work . I was only breaking your balls about the spam server . I'm sure there was a chuckle or two . John |
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Post by JR on Mar 31, 2014 18:39:06 GMT -6
Ok parts man don't make me show you up on finding this CDI! Show me up JR I don't have that one , however with the correct info I think a sub can be made to work . I was only breaking your balls about the spam server . I'm sure there was a chuckle or two . John  No need to even look until he verifies he has AC and a pulse signal.
JR
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 1, 2014 11:39:31 GMT -6
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Post by Bashan on Apr 2, 2014 22:29:03 GMT -6
OK Sabo I'm back on this thread answering your question about the stator from the other thread about your carb.  Here is your stator configuration as dredged up by the mighty and fowl JR:
Your pickup coil does indeed have two ungrounded wires that run directly to the CDI. Pull their connector off and put your meter to AC. Put one probe in the White and the other probe in the Brown. Key to ON! That Black/Yellow is a kill wire through the ignition. I didn't see a kill switch but I didn't look for that, if you have one set it to run. Probe color does not matter this is AC. Crank the engine, you should get a low voltage AC reading. I'd like to know what that is.
Your Y/W and W/R appear to be similar to a GY6 configuration. You will test the wires the same. Test each wire separately. Get the Y/W off, pull it at the CDI if that's the most convenient. Put one probe in it and ground the other probe. Same procedure as above except set your AC voltage to max of 50v AC if it's not auto range. Reattach that wire and then same procedure for the W/R. It's the same set of coils except the Y/W is center tapped off the W/R so the voltage will be much less. I'd like those voltages please.
B/R is your power to CDI wire. Set to AC and I'd set max range over 100v AC because it might come in a bit above that. One probe in wire with all others hooked up, ground other probe and then same procedure. I'd like that voltage please.
Let's try that and see what we get. If you do those I should be able to finish out the testing with just a couple more tests. I bow to JR though, step in buddy if the chickens are quiet. This is an oddball config and....BUK! 
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 3, 2014 4:56:37 GMT -6
I have a partial test.
on THIS VIDEO all the times you see spark i have about 0.1~0.2 volts on pulse coil tested whit multi on white and brown wires. On BY on CDI i have about 14.5~16.5 volts all the tests with AC set on multi. I see many oil mixed with dirty on pulse coil the problem can be caused by dirty? How cleanup? I try to remove the coil but it have 2 bolts one i can remove easily but the another one is stuck and my screwdriver almost danificate the bolt. Oh gosh! another stuck bolt  . To do the tests i have to use the batery but quick start consumes many amperes from bat and he losses the charge again so i put on charge AGAIN  i cannot complete the tests because the batery is runnig low.
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Post by Bashan on Apr 3, 2014 10:38:28 GMT -6
90% certainty that's your pickup (trigger) coil causing that irregular spark because you replaced your ignition coil. The other thing would be plug boot but I think you said you got that already. That trigger coil needs to come off and be cleaned with alcohol. How's the continuity on those wires to CDI? That spark looks good other than it's intermittent.
Is that a new battery? It should crank longer than a few moments. Especially with the plug out=no compression which is fine. That's how The Great Stinky does it!
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Post by Bashan on Apr 3, 2014 10:56:37 GMT -6
The BY is your killwire. As long as the key is on it is irrelevant. Once the key is off it will ground out the spark through the CDI. The spark is generated by the power feed to the CDI which is the BR, the trigger wires which release it, and transmitted through the coil feed W/L. The other stator wires are energy generation for lights and battery charging. If we can get this thing running we will be more concerned with the other aspects of the stator but I'd like to see what those wires are doing also. Rich
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 3, 2014 18:04:47 GMT -6
Hey guys sorry to not respond i have busy on work today many PCs and games to fix in little time...anyway...  Ok my bat is new but i put the old spark on cilinder when i make my tests so i have compression besides the cilinder have gas and the scoot will be stored inside my house at night and my wife not like of smell of gas inside the house (woman thing) and i have to make magic to disappear with the smell. My charger is not potent so the bat will be discharge fast. The continuity on wires are good, without patches and bad contacts...and the voltage are the same on CDI. Do you think that trigger coil is not working well because of dirt or is it really bad? Hey Rich when the scoot works the lamps working well good and the batery are good too but i buy a new batery to make the start better. Sabo. |
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Post by Bashan on Apr 3, 2014 19:24:40 GMT -6
Then your WR and YW are probably OK. WR charges the battery and YW is 12v AC to lights. I'm convinced it's the trigger. When You have it off check the coil carefully, there may be a small defect in a wire where it connects to the coil. Sometimes the coil itself goes bad. You deal with electronics, you know how that goes. Rich
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 3, 2014 19:54:29 GMT -6
Then your WR and YW are probably OK. WR charges the battery and YW is 12v AC to lights. I'm convinced it's the trigger. When You have it off check the coil carefully, there may be a small defect in a wire where it connects to the coil. Sometimes the coil itself goes bad. You deal with electronics, you know how that goes. Rich Hey i have bad and good news frist the good news i dont remove the coil but i clean it a slim brush and many alchool and folow the hint from Rich and remove old spark from cilinder and the quick start runs better whit no compression, ok i turn on the key and start the motor and i have spark simultaneus, test the stator coil about 50v YW and WR so i have bad news i put the new spark on cilinder and connect the boot cap and start the motor and the same erroneus with the spark sometimes spark and sometimes nothing but whem i remove the spark from cilinder i have contínuos spark like before so i think its have some connection with the compression on cilinder something to dificult the motor to running well, guys i font have more clubes about that. Sabor. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 3, 2014 20:23:33 GMT -6
You said it has good spark with OLD SPARK PLUG but NOT WITH NEW SPARK PLUG. Are they they same LENGTH and TYPE OF SPARK PLUG? If it works with the OLD SPARK PLUG then something is wrong with the NEW SPARK PLUG.
Alleyoop
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 4, 2014 3:42:10 GMT -6
You said it has good spark with OLD SPARK PLUG but NOT WITH NEW SPARK PLUG. Are they they same LENGTH and TYPE OF SPARK PLUG? If it works with the OLD SPARK PLUG then something is wrong with the NEW SPARK PLUG. Alleyoop No i remove the new and place the old on cilinder without boot cap i take the boot cap and place on new spark out from cilinder and grounded to make tests ok i start the motor and see erroneus sparks on new one so i remove the old spark from cilinder and start the motor again with the head of cilinder open and i see good spark on the new so with compression BAD SPARKS without compression GOOD SPARKS. See the good spark with the old spark out from cilinder "no obstacles and compression" -> TEST 1See the bad spark with the old spark place on cilinder "with air compression" -> TEST 2So lets resume: 1- The eletric system seens to be ok since i have a "good" spark 2- The lamps are disconnect to avoid leakage current 3- The oil reservior was removed and the sensor for oil level too but the scoot working well without since i make my own mixture on gas tank. 4- The stator sends 50v to the R/R without compression abstacles on cilinder. 5- The pulse coil sends constants 0.1v to CDI without compression abstacles on cilinder. 6- The motor are very dirty and i clean all i can. 7- The batery looses his charge fast when i try to start the motor whit compression obstacles. 8- The batery not looses his charge fast when i try to start the motor whitout compression obstacles. 9- I place my batery to charge at night 9~10hrs of charge 10- I dont have a kill switch on rear break. 11- I do not know why she do not work. Sabo. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 4, 2014 11:23:24 GMT -6
Compression has nothing to do with the spark plug firing. Have you checked the ground wire from the motor to the frame. The problem is electrical not enough compression will make it hard for the motor to start or not start at all.
Is that the right plug for that motor? If its to short it will ground itself out inside the head because it will not stick out enough inside the head.
Have you checked the compression? If you do not have a gauge stick your finger in the hole and crank the motor over.
If it pushs your finger off the hole it has enough compression to run, if you just feel a little pressure then not enough compression for the motor to run.
Alleyoop
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Post by sabotendar on Apr 4, 2014 13:57:41 GMT -6
Compression has nothing to do with the spark plug firing. Have you checked the ground wire from the motor to the frame. The problem is electrical not enough compression will make it hard for the motor to start or not start at all. Is that the right plug for that motor? If its to short it will ground itself out inside the head because it will not stick out enough inside the head. Have you checked the compression? If you do not have a gauge stick your finger in the hole and crank the motor over. If it pushs your finger off the hole it has enough compression to run, if you just feel a little pressure then not enough compression for the motor to run. Alleyoop I see a ground wire out from motor and he is connected with ground on bat and the others components lamps, horn, etc...the ignition coil is grounded on frame if was bad ground the ignition coil dont work! Or im wrong? When i arrive in home i will put wire from motor to frame to see what happens! About the compression i not start the motor but when rotate the magnet and put the finger on hole and have a little compression but i not start the motor to check this make diferences? About the plug i bought coincidentally the same as is recommended in the service manual for hot places (Brazil). Sabo. |
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No need to even look until he verifies he has AC and a pulse signal. 
Here is your stator configuration as dredged up by the mighty and fowl JR:
. To do the tests i have to use the batery but quick start consumes many amperes from bat and he losses the charge again so i put on charge AGAIN 
i cannot complete the tests because the batery is runnig low.
..BAD TO THE BONE..