Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 19, 2015 10:23:37 GMT -6
I was contemplating why you had bad vibration before the change and now you don't,,, I think one or two of the rollers was hanging up in their ramp and staying " low" and was causing the imbalance I agree....it's night and day....I don't remember my duke ever idling so smooth....I thought that's just the way it was. |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 19, 2015 8:31:08 GMT -6
Hey gooter,,, weigh the rollers you had in there to see if they all weigh the same The old rollers all weighed 22 grams each...plus or minus a few tenths....all had flat spots on them...some looked better than the others....I was surprised they looked as good as they did after 3000 miles. I think all that grease in the variator caused some of the vibration issues, as well. |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 18, 2015 18:52:40 GMT -6
Slapped the 24 gram sliders in today....I was amazed how much smoother the idle is now....no more rattling....no more mirrors shaking!
Took her for a 3 mile ride....definitely noticed my low end has dropped off....midrange throttle is incredible!....Gonna do a wot test tomorrow after I put the cvt cover back on....I will run the 24's for awhile...see how it rides 2 up....thanks again for any and all info on the variator fan issue....so far so good!!!
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 15, 2015 21:05:17 GMT -6
Heavier weight means it gets pushed out by C-force a little quicker. How it affects top end I forget exactly now, but I'm pretty sure it's such a small difference you're not going to notice either way. Cripes Pedro. Ya got me all messed up now. LOL I could have that backwards.... I'm going to go with the 24g and see how it reacts....I'm betting the material and inside diameter of the rollers and sliders are different...removing material may cause some issues like the other poster indicated. |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 15, 2015 20:44:06 GMT -6
The extra 2 grams just means you're getting to WOT a little faster, that's all. That small of a change really isn't going to lose you much of your top end. If it bugs you that much, then put 20 gram sliders in. Correct me if I'm wrong Gman....heavier weights=more top end(more mph)....lighter=better low end(hole shot) I'm going to gain top end and lose some hole shot from the 2 gram increase in weight..right? |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 15, 2015 20:29:54 GMT -6
I used a drill press to run a test on one of my old rollers...just matched a large drill bit to the roller....ran it all the way through....spun a little in the vise.
That test yielded about a 5.75 gram difference....a little to heavy bite on that test...got 5 more roller test subjects...lol....will try a smaller drill bit...take less of a bite....scrounged around for a reamer...all too small.
I'm going to try the 24 gram...but definitely going to find the right drill bit to whittle away at these rollers to see if I can get a nice even hole and take off a little at a time.
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Post by gooter on Apr 15, 2015 18:41:34 GMT -6
Yikes....I think I might have ordered too heavy of slider weights....ordered 24 gram....weighed my oem rollers are 22 grams....I guess I was thinking the rollers were 24 or 25 gram from the factory from reading other posts....should've weighed them first...then ordered.
I wanted to get a slight increase in top end....right now I'm at 60mph wot on my phone gps speedometer app....I'm 180lbs or so...I ride 2 up often so I'm worried about losing my acceleration. Anybody have any luck drilling these sliders out....uni bit...drill bit?
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 14, 2015 20:51:51 GMT -6
Yes I wouldn't sweat this,, I think it's part of the game This at least is good info for anybody else with a question about their variator fan...I've got so much great info from these forums...saved me tons of money and not mention the grief of just replacing parts that are not defective. |
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Post by gooter on Apr 14, 2015 20:35:41 GMT -6
I went to google images and typed in 250cc variator,,,,some had the marks and others did not,,,I'd buff an area to see if I'm wrong,,,I still think you will find no crack once it's cleaned up   Here's one vendor pic that makes me feel better about my fan...there are some more on eBay, as well.....I'm afraid to order something that is exactly what I have...don't need two fan face plates that look cracked?  |
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Post by gooter on Apr 14, 2015 19:41:27 GMT -6
I looked at the raw data image and blew it up till it was as big as a diner plate,,,,,I believe this is a casting problem in the die cast mould,,, not in the part,,,it is just a shadow of cracks in the mould ,,,I would keep an eye on them tho to make sure they are that and don't get bigger if I am wrong,,,that would be ugly if it exploded,,, one way to tell if it is a shadow of a crack is use a scotchbright buffer pad attachment on your dremel tool and massage one of them to see after it gets smoothed out if there is a crack but I think it is not That's what I'm seeing as well, cyborg....I'll clean these parts up tomorrow and give them a good inspection. If the "new" fan pics I'm seeing on the vendors websites look exactly like mine....must part of the casting process. |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 14, 2015 18:44:20 GMT -6
 In the process of changing from rollers to sliders on my Duke 250....I noticed these small cracks propagating out from the inner portion of each fan blade. The cracks are not through to the other side. I did notice that on several sites while looking for a new fan...eBay and some other parts places...the same cracks are visible on the vendors pics of the same fan. Is this just how this fan is casted at the factory or is it a flaw? |
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Clinician
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Post by gooter on Apr 12, 2015 21:05:08 GMT -6
Question about refilling the gear case...Duke 250....do you refill it through the drain hole?
I believe...not certain though...the Honda manual says to remove the bolt above the fill hole and fill it till it comes out that removed bolt above the drain hole.
I've replace the gear oil before...but for the life of me...I can't remember what the correct process is...lol.
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Post by gooter on Mar 30, 2015 18:10:47 GMT -6
Rev up the engine with the over flow bottle clearly seen...if you see any bubbles in the reservoir bottle...your head gasket is blown...if you replace it....very carefully check the machined mating surfaces of the head for pits...and replace the head of any are found.
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Post by gooter on Mar 30, 2015 17:57:19 GMT -6
The idle mixture screw is royal pain to reach on the Dukes....I am able to reach it with the special "L" shaped tool on the left side of the scooter with the plastics off...it is doable.
You have to reach between the airbox and the frame and position a small flashlight on to the screw...all you can see is the glare of the screw and turn it as required. It's not easy but I was able to set my mixture perfectly while hearing the rise and fall of the RPM's as I turned the handle of the tool ..the Air/fuel mixture is set right by the color on the spark plug...and the scooter runs exceptionally.
Not sure about the ethanol fuel....seems like it can be a contributing factor to my Dukes heat "running away" if it is not controlled by my fan set up...as noted in the other Duke 250 thread.
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Post by gooter on Mar 23, 2015 8:19:58 GMT -6
The fan thermo switchs are junk on these things....mine went out at 600 miles...overheated and blew the head gasket.
I'd rather control the heat myself with a manual switch for the fan and trust the temp gauge..
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