Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 13, 2015 5:30:55 GMT -6
Check the library here. We probably have the wiring diagram you need. I did. It was kind of small.
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 21:21:12 GMT -6
Going to bed, but just started thinking.. Could it be a stator issue?
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 21:12:03 GMT -6
That could very well be because alarms usually start with horn blowing and turn flashing the light. What wires did you jump by the way. Find the alarm/remote start module and find the white plug for it. Unplug it from the wiring harness then check the wire colors if you have a Brown/White and a Black/White wire or 2 Black and White wire or a Grey and a Pinkish wires in the harness plug join them together with another wire. . So the wires your looking for To JUMP are: 1. A Brown /White and a Black/white wire 2. Or 2 Black and White wires 3. Or a Grey and a Pinkish wire If the alarms have a fuse just remove the fuse and leave it plugged in. Thanks Alleyoop. My wiring harness had a black/white and brown/white (on the wiring harness) connected to the pink and grey wires on the alarm module so I jumpered those. The other wires on the alarm module are 2 yellows, red, black, orange, and blue. There is a Yellow/red on the wiring harness connected to the center pin of the 9 pin connector. That's on the wiring harness, not on the alarm module. There was no fuse around the alarm module. The only fuse on the bike is at the battery.
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 20:36:48 GMT -6
Something else I've been wondering. I disconnected the alarm module by it's connector and wired a jumper in so the killswitch works properly. Is there a chance that I should have to leave the alarm module in somehow so it allows power through to the lights and turn signals?
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 20:16:53 GMT -6
The brown wire gets it's juice when you turn the KEY ON it usually makes contact with a black wire which in turn goes into a plug and feeds the system from there. Alleyoop I'll have to check that.. May be that contact. Here are my probs right now.. Tail light doesn't work (brake light does) - No voltage on Brown wire gauge and instrumentation lights do not work (Tach and fuel gauge do work though, and the light/hi-beam switch has a momentary switch built in labeled 'Passing' that when pressed, lights up the hi-beam indicator on the instrument panel) Turn Signals don't work - All bulbs and sockets are good but lights don't work at all. No flashing, no staying on, etc. Not sure about the headlight and High-beam lights as both were blown so I've got some ordered. Also decided to go ahead and order a new rectifier and turn signal relay just to make sure they are good. Looking at some wiring diagrams, it looks like the brown wire is more or less directly connected to the light switch. Makes me wonder if it's my left handlebar light controls that's mucking me up.. Anyone have a good blown up wiring diagram for a 50cc GY6 style scooter like the Tao Tao, Jonway, etc? All the ones I've found are really small and hard to see everything properly..
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 19:45:52 GMT -6
Tail lights the Live Wire is Brown The Stop lights live Wire is YELLOW and GREEN when you squeeze the brakes. All Green wires back there are GROUND. I know.. Where is the brown live wire getting it's 12v from? I'm having a hard time tracing that.. Grounds are all good. Yellow wire does get 12v when I squeeze either brake handle. Just can't seem to find out why I don't have power on the brown wire..
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 19:08:43 GMT -6
I give up for the day. Spent a lot of time this weekend working on this thing. My goal is to have this scooter ready by next weekend so my wife and I can have a 'Scooter Date' evening. Still can't figure out the light issue. Did some continuity tests on the wiring harness and everything is fine. Still do not have 12v at the rear light. Brake light works fine. Starting to wonder if it's the left controls for the turn signals and headlight. Think I'll go with a bumblebee paintjob. Yellow and black. Going to use Rustoleum truck bed liner spray for all the panels, then while still tacky, spray over certain panels with Krylon Fusion for plastic yellow gloss. From what I read, as long as it's sprayed on while the bedliner coating is still tacky, it makes a really good bond to it. Going for something like these 2 pics.. I've always liked yellow since I was a kid. I think because of the yellow and black 1969 Mustang Mach 1..
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 11:27:47 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 11:25:14 GMT -6
Currently working on the turn signals and the rear light. Both headlights are blown so I've got those on order.
I have a question though. If both headlights were blown would that keep the taillight from working? The rear brake light works (same bulb) but the normally on taillight does not.
Anyone know?
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 12, 2015 9:37:40 GMT -6
Thanks guys!
I'm thinking once I get the parts I've ordered and put things back together, I may just paint the whole thing in truck bed liner.
I do have one side panel that has a crack running down about 4 inches from the bottom edge. I learned this nice little trick with my wife's scooter of using ABS cement (get at Lowes or any home improvement storage) to glue the crack back together. If the crack is too big, you can use some fiberglass drywall mesh tape along the inside of the panel covering the crack, then embed that in ABS cement. The ABS cement works perfectly since the panels are made of ABS plastic and it will melt into and bond permanently. You have to let it cure for about a week before sanding flush though... It's more or less thick syrupy consistency stuff made from abs plastic melted in acetone. After I bought the ABS cement, I found some articles and youtube videos on how to make my own. I think I paid about $8 for the can which goes a long way.
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 11, 2015 15:02:34 GMT -6
Just ordered some on ebay. It had the 16/18's in it but got the 35's instead. I'll see how that does...
Another question...
Where's a good place to get any missing bolts or screws? Apparently during the PO's endevors to get the scooter running, he did not put all the screws and bolts back in so there are a few missing here and there..
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 11, 2015 14:15:21 GMT -6
Not the end at all!
Just got the battery charged up and no joke it fires right up every time! Looks like the PO adjusted the idle air screw way too lean and had the scooter idling at 4k rpms. I think it was a half-turn out. I got the idle air screw adjusted to approximately 2 turns out and idle speed at about 2k rpms.. I really don't know where it should be idling, but it sounds pretty good and is really steady so looks like carb doesn't really need cleaning at this point.
Now that I've got the scooter running good, I'm chasing a few other issues. Seems like everything on the left controls (horn and turn signals) do not work. Headlights are blown out but do have power to those. Both front and rear brakes trigger the brake light fine. Rear light is working good also.
I went ahead and ordered a few things. kickstart lever (was missing), throttle cable (was broke), belt cover (was cracked), and new mirrors (had crotch rocket mirrors on it that didn't even match or sit right).
All in all, not bad. $100 for the scooter and about $80 in parts to make it right. I still need to get some bulbs..
Are there local places like Advance Auto Parts, Napa, Autozone, etc that sell headlight bulbs or other bulbs for these scooters?
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Clinician
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Post by silar on Apr 11, 2015 11:25:33 GMT -6
Usually they are 10amp fuses coming off the positive terminal of the battery and that wire usually goes to the ignition switch. Most scoots that fuse is a tube type and not the blade type fuse holder which a lot of folks switch it to. Alleyoop That's exactly what I want to do. I'm not a big fan of the glass fuses..
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Post by silar on Apr 11, 2015 10:21:29 GMT -6
I do have another question though. I only see one fuse on the entire bike. Looking at the wiring diagram that's normal. What size fuse should it be? I want to make sure the correct size is in there and also want to replace that fuse holder with a better one..
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Post by silar on Apr 11, 2015 9:51:18 GMT -6
Battery is actually dated this year in January. He just bought it before I bought the scooter.. I've already cranked the crap out of it and also had the bike running, but apparently after I had cranked it to death that wonderful alarm system drained it down to nothing. Got it charging for now.. Apparently if you do remove this alarm system, you need to jumper a couple of pins so that the scooter will not run without the key. I took the male connector and disconnected all the wires from it and jumpered the 2 pins.. all is well..
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