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Not many brands actually say they are silicate free because most brands are silicate free and they probably figure why bother? You can read the ingredients label which will help. Another feature to look for is the long life or extended life brands which state that they can be used with any antifreeze and can be used on any vehicle.

Prestone and Peak Long Life make this type of antifreeze along with Super Tech from Walmart and Advance Auto has their own brand.

Here's a good replacement fan that may save you a couple of amps in power:

www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=15&products_id=1024&osCsid=2bf68d71e32fe413cbb745cbd96ddb55

There really is no work around for the restricted air flow problem short of adding an additional auxiliary radiator in front of the gas tank. Most of the overheating issues with the 250cc class of scoots can be traced back to poor maintenance of the cooling system and problems after refilling the cooling system. If the scoot has been sitting a while, then it is important to drain and flush the cooling system. The passages are small and can easily by blocked with corrosion and foreign matter.

A good quality 50/50 premix antifreeze should be used for the refill. Sometimes air trapped in the system can cause overheating and it can take several heating a cooling cycles to "burp" or remove any trapped air. This can be monitored at the overflow or expansion tank. Once the level remains constant when checking cold, the system should be free of air.

You can then determine if the scoot really has over heating problems after the cooling system has been properly serviced.

Here is a tutorial on the carb:

scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=intake&action=display&thread=1395

The right hand picture shows the location of the idle mixture screw. The one pictured is a horizontal screw that many 150cc carbs have. The screw for most 250cc carbs is vertical and is facing down between the engine and the carb. This makes it sort of difficult to adjust while the carb is mounted on the engine. A good starting point is to turn the mixture screw clockwise until it just seats and then turn counterclockwise 2 1/2 turns. This is a good ball park setting and should allow the engine to idle so that it can be fine tuned.

It's at the end of the article along with the new Aprilia SRV850.

It sounds like you guys are getting a "spark knock" or pre-ignition. No big deal as long as it doesn't happen while cruising down the road. It can hole a piston under these conditions.

Early model cars (carbs and point style ignition systems) overcame this with a vacuum advance unit attached to the distributor. When accelerating like from a dead stop, the vacuum drops which would momentarily retard the ignition timing. As the engine would gain speed and vacuum would rise, the timing would slowly advance to normal. Modern engines use the ECU to control this. Most Chinese scoots are sort of in-between these two technologies. They have no way of compensating for initial spark knock unless they have fuel injection or a more sophisticated ignition system than just a simple CDI.

Welcome to the forum. THIS diagram is probably representative of your scoot. The black/white wire usually comes from the kill switch and the ignition switch. It goes to the CDI and controls the ignition system. If your kill switch is on, the scoot will not run and the starter will not turn over. The headlight usually comes on only when the engine is running. This can be verified by the lack of a light switch on the handlebar. Usually there will be an emergency flasher switch (red) in place of the headlight switch.

Check your PM's, trvstlh. I referred you to the HELIX manual as this is the engine the CF250 is cloned from.