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Post by Cruiser on Jun 23, 2012 22:06:08 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, bagwell7420. I moved your post into a new thread as jct842 suggested. I also believe his diagnosis of your problem is correct.
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 18, 2012 12:28:30 GMT -6
Your welcome, Jonathan. It is a special screw which goes with a tapered seat. Here is a source of these screws: www.partsforscooters.com/Welcome?search=carburetor+drainIn a pinch, you could remove the entire assembly from the end of the drain hose and just plug it securely with a screw or a golf tee until you get the replacement part. |
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 17, 2012 20:45:42 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, Jonathan. A gas leak like you describe is usually caused when the screw at the end of the carb drain hose comes out. Here's what the hose which is located on the bottom of the float bowl looks like along with the screw:  Here is a picture of a carb showing what is known as the overflow tube. It is the short tube which is open ended. Gas will flow from here when the float needle sticks in an open condition. The hose with the spring around it just below is the drain hose which is connected to the bottom of the carb bowl.  |
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 16, 2012 20:39:08 GMT -6
HERE is one. A little pricey, but it appears to be available. THIS site has several 150cc engines, but you would have to contact them for compatibility. Welcome to Scooter Doc.
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 15, 2012 18:24:33 GMT -6
That is for 3. You can also buy them one at a time.
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 14, 2012 21:53:38 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 6, 2012 21:29:00 GMT -6
I don't know of any extra accessory connectors in that area of the scoot. How about taking a picture so that we will have an idea what we're looking at? Maybe the diode is missing?
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 4, 2012 17:51:51 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 4, 2012 17:03:50 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, cadman. It does sound like the stator might be OK. The dropping voltage after the scoot warms sounds like it might happen when the fan comes on. It would seem like the regulator/rectifier (R/R) is weak, but there are other things to check out before replacing parts. All connections at the two R/R plugs should be checked for tightness along with the connector on the blocking diode. Make sure all the grounds (black battery wire and green frame wires) are making good metal to metal contact with the frame.
There are many things to do to improve the charging output. These scoots tend to have marginal charging abilities even when everything is working correctly.
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 1, 2012 20:48:09 GMT -6
Please don't apologize for posting in the wrong section. At least you posted and shared your experience with us.
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Post by Cruiser on May 31, 2012 22:36:51 GMT -6
A wonderful story, Steve. A good scoot ride can certainly help you forget your problems and put a whole new outlook on life. I will transfer this to General Discussion.
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Post by Cruiser on May 30, 2012 21:56:17 GMT -6
Most 150cc scoots use AC to power the headlights directly off the stator. HID lights require DC and are usually connected directly to the battery through a controller and an in line fuse. Most 150cc scoots do not have enough generating capacity to power the HID lights and many people will convert their scoots to full DC power to use HID lights. This requires reworking or replacing the stator and regulator rectifier.
I have heard good results with 35W xenon bulbs as a direct replacement of the original bulbs. They work on either AC or DC so there is no conversion required and they come in the BA20d socket size.
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Post by Cruiser on May 30, 2012 19:39:53 GMT -6
Good info, John. Now I don't have to go out and measure my tire on the VIP50 to calibrate the bike speedometer add on. ;D I also agree that the ride would be better with the 3.50 tire.
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Post by Cruiser on May 28, 2012 22:27:40 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, lana8203. HERE is a little video that you can show the hubby when he adjusts the valves. |
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Post by Cruiser on May 28, 2012 22:14:01 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, MC. What kind of scooter (make and model) is it? This helps us determine some basic trouble shooting techniques.
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