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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 12, 2018 20:05:37 GMT -6
Update:
Well. While I've been doing the paperwork. It turns out that the DMV cannot process a bond title.
The bonded title requires some kind of value, to base the cost of the process. The DMV called it some weird name. But think of it as the Kelly Blue Book. My make and model was not on that list. So the DMV cannot put a price for a bond, which is based on it value or cost. I asked them to use the sales cost from the dealership. They said that they would not use it. They only thing I can do, is get the scooter appraised. Once I do that, the DMV will have something to base the value on, and could the offer me a bond amount. I could also try a dealership, for the same thing. But I would still have to get a cost value for the DMV.
I'll have to make a few calls to places to do that at. But a new step, for a long process.
Round and round we go. Where we stop? Nobody knows.
~ Junior
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 11, 2018 19:18:15 GMT -6
I also had similar symptoms from one of my dirt bikes. For me, it was a dead/dying battery. Bought a new one, ran brand new. Maybe your scooters battery?? Free testing at your local auto parts store.
Just a thought from one of my experiences,
~ Junior
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 7, 2018 21:41:27 GMT -6
Diver!
Dude, thanks for showing me the way of AWESOME!
Really, that looks soo good! No, I don't intend to do that mod. On this scooter, at least. But it's awesome to learn more of the what and why of the things. Such as the what and why of the CVT cover. Makes sense.
The drastic difference with the cover vs your modded setup, is a huge improvement. I can't wait to throw more ideas, onto my scooter and post the results.
Thanks again,
~ Junior
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 6, 2018 21:46:29 GMT -6
You’re probably going to need to do a bonded title. Rebuilt titles are for vehicles that have been totaled and then put back together by a repair shop. A bonded title is for vehicles that were sold with a bill of sale or the likes... Hope that helps ya Solymar You're correct. It is called a bonded title. At the time, I couldn't remember what it was called. So I used the term that was still fresh in my head. I didn't know that there were different types of titles, like that. Bonded, rebuilt, Chinese Tea Titles, ect... But learning is fun! CVT. Yes, that's the one! Good to know about the gasket. I'll just leave mine be, as it is. But, no CVT cover?! That is an enticing thought... But I think I'll just leave it on, and let my brain wander on the thought of 'what if'. I'm sure I'll get bored again, find something to tinker around with. Until then, stay tuned! I'll report back when I do more about this bonded title. Have a good evening, ~ Junior |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 6, 2018 19:50:57 GMT -6
Liking the fit and placement of the fuse box, cdi & battery. Can’t wait to see more! Solymar Cheers mate! 😊 I to am very happy with the fuse box. I didn't know what to expect, but it came out beautifully. I'm confident that I'll be adding some cheap fleebay handlebar mounted speakers. Some even do Bluetooth... I've got just the fuse spot just for them. Today, I got bored. Cracked open the kick starter cover. The kick starter was frozen. Not really knowing what to do, I saturated everything with White Lithium Grease. Everything moves beautifully. I did find out, the the cog for the kick starter was past that one spot. That spot that doesn't allow the kicker to be used. Didn't take long to understand how it all worked out. But it was fun do. Does that cover require a gasket? It clearly has one, in several pieces now. But if I don't need it, I won't worry about it. Removed the headlight assembly from the body panel. Trying to envision how I'm going to make the DOT LED headlight fit in there. Definitely going to cut the factory reflector, off the assembly. Not sure how I'm going to find or make a true vertical marker line. So my cut will work while driving. Don't want the light focused on the tree tops or somewhere else, that would be completely useless. I think I'm going to be forced into rebuilding the title. I'm tired of waiting for the owner. If I'm lucky, I'm hoping it'll all be behind me in two weeks. Figuring I'll be waiting on snail mail. ~ Junior P.S. I really am pleased how aesthetically pleasing the battery box came out, with fuses and CDI. While I don't have a battery cover. I'm confident that it will still fit perfectly. |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 4, 2018 19:50:09 GMT -6
Ok guys. I owe ya'll an apology. I said I'd wait, and I didn't. I setup the fuse panel, battery, and soldered the wires for the relays. The first thing I did, was test out the make shift battery strap. FYI - It was from an old ratchet strap that failed. So I made good simple work of it. Then I cut some 18awg wires to serve as leads to the relays. Soldered them together. I made one of them black. That's to indicate to me, that this particular wire has it's own dedicated power from the battery. I don't know why the fuse panel is setup like that, but their are two battery leads from this one fuse panel. From the manufacturer(Honda). Then I mounted drilled the fuse panel down to the plastic. It's a solid mounting setup, the plastic is plenty thick for the screws to grab ahold of. Then I hooked up the CDI, to see how the whole kit kabudol would fit. I had to put some force onto the CDI, to make it fit there. But I can tell, it would be going anywhere. The fuse panel with fuses looks like a tight fit, but all of the fuses have 1mm of space from the battery. Overall, I am super stoked about how well it came together! It all fits where I wanted it fit, and even looks like a relatively clean fit... A first chance for everything, right? So to sum it all up. I would like to humbly apologize to all, for being bored and continuing to tinker when I said I wouldn't. I didn't mean to betray your trust. Most apologetically, ~ Junior 😂😉😛       |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 4, 2018 17:10:31 GMT -6
As a side note there's shielded female spade connectors they are literally pennies more than the blue ones you're running,,and the crimp shank is longer which stops wire fatigue I honestly didn't even look around. I totally had blinders on, for good reason. I saw what I needed, and got to the counter as fast as I could. I almost always end up buying something I don't need or pointless for the task at hand... It's a horrible habit... The main reason why I love amazon and eBay so much. ~ Junior |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 4, 2018 17:06:23 GMT -6
... How did you track down the last owner? because the only option I see right now is to get a rebuilt title on it and that sounds like a real pain to do. I don't know how it is in other states. This is a first for me. However, the process for tracking him down is easy in Texas. I went to the DMV with the VIN, doesn't have a plate(but I'm sure it could be useful), asked for finding the registered owner of the vehicle, pay the DMV for services rendered, and walked out with a piece of paper. Print out has a name, and address of the registered owner. The only person that can sign the title over. Also has a list of lienholder(s)(if any), and all the vehicle details for the DMV to know that it is(make, model, color, etc...). Out here, all motor vehicles are required to have a license plate, insurance, and a yearly inspection. Even if it is under 50cc's. Any one that bought the vehicle between the time the registered owner sold it and you, are meaningless. They couldn't even report the scooter stolen. Never heard the term, "rebuilt title". But that is what I most likely will have to do. And yes. You will be jumping through a ton of hoops. And it will only get expensive. Like I said previously, my GUESSTIMATE for my situation is $300-$400 MINIMAL. I am going to try and annoying the guy enough to sign the forms, just to get me out of his hair. Hope this helps, ~Junior |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 4, 2018 11:12:31 GMT -6
Sadly, the lost title form is for the registered owner (not me). And AAA Texas doesn't do that process here. Damn, I miss AAA California... For me to process the lost title form, I would be required to have the registered owner sign the form. Plus a POA so I can handle the process in his stead.
So far, communication with the owner has not been good. I have the number to the father, and he has been less than willing to assist me. And the emails to the owner have been unanswered.
There is another way around it, but it's going to be costly. By a lot... In the ball park of $3-400...
If I can get the owners cooperation, it would be registration plus title copy fees
~ Junior
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 3, 2018 18:15:41 GMT -6
Well, I'm done with the electronic flasher. Easy peasy. I'm all set for the two rear turn signals. When I choose to do that. Bought the new NGK plug, with those female connectors. Gapped it, throw the China plug in the trash. Kept the old Autolite as a backup. While I was at auto parts store. I saw a small coil of 18awg, looked on the back, saw what that coil was rated for. Feel good about using 18awg for the LED headlight project. For now, I'm kind of at a stand still. Until I can get the title situated. I can't do ALL of the fuse panel wiring, without relays. I could start it, but I'll wait until I'm fully ready to cross that bridge and spend more money. To be continued... ~ Junior     |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 2, 2018 19:10:01 GMT -6
I just modified the relay setup that I want to do.... Sort of... I ran out of female spade connectors. But this give a good idea of the overall plan. I cut the wiring pigtail off the factory relay, and will put connectors on the cut wires to plug into the electric relay I already have from the dirt bike. Think I'll call it a night. I'll buy more connectors and a NKG plug tomorrow. I'm happy with how things are going. ~ Junior    |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 2, 2018 18:34:16 GMT -6
Hey guys, Need a little guidance. Yes, it's electrical based. I am trying to wire up my new fuse panel for a LED headlight. The headlight draws 45w, 30w's for the low beam and 45 for the high beam. I have 18awg wire, or 10awg wire. Side by side, the positive battery cable looks like a 10awg. Do you think I can get away with using the 18awg for 45w? The 18awg is rated up to 16amps for 0-50ft. Using a 12v system, 45w is 4amps. So I think it will be ok. But I'm still not sure. Second. Realistically, could I run said headlight on a 5amp fuse, or should I use a 4amp fuse? My dirt bike used one 10amp fuse for headlights, turn signals, and brake lights. Also, I cut that old tube fuse out. Swapped in a mini blade fuse holder. I'm not buying those fuses.... I have enough blade fuses laying around, I don't want another style to keep track of. Soldered it down already. Thanks guys, ~ Junior  |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Apr 1, 2018 22:24:32 GMT -6
Did some rummaging around the ol' dirt bike. Scavenged the very dead battery, one make shift battery strap, two out of four LEDs, fuse panel, and(to my surprise) one 2 post electronic relay with a pigtailed ground wire. The dirt bike used LED turn signals, built into the bark busters(hand guards). So that is why I didn't bring back four LEDs. The Battery might be dead, but it can complete the circuit when I jump start the scooter. Or use the kick starter, when that gets fixed. The relay. Well that one might be a little tricky. I think I'm just going to cut the pigtail off of the factory relay, and splice it onto the electronic relay. The only thing I'm hesitant about, is the ground wire. To get in the harness, would stretch the wire a little tighter than I'd prefer. Just to touch the pigtails. Or in a way where I would mount it in the rubber mount, then attach the wiring together. Dummy fitted the LEDs to the original signal locations. Think it'll look great, when I it's ready. Even have a LED and stock mounted side by side. I also just plopped the fuse panel into place. Not mounted or anything. Just wanted to see how it would look and function. It's a very tight fit, but look good. To change a fuse, the battery would have to be removed first. Things could be worse. I also stumbled across my tap and die set. Think I'm going to re-thread all of the rusted frame mounted nuts. Tissue will clean the threads, and give me a easy time bolting the parts down. I tried a wire brush. I'm not getting the results that I would like. So I'm going the hard way about the task. That's it for the weekend, ~ Junior     |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Mar 31, 2018 16:48:18 GMT -6
The LED compatable flasher units I've been running were 3 blade plug and play ,,,no muss no fuss,,, Correct. That is the same that I used on the dirt bike. However, the scooter has options....  The wires may or may not be in the correct orientation. But that is a simple task with a paper clip. I haven't checked what wires go where, I'll deal with it when ever it arrives. I believe(not certain), this unit was meant for a Ruckus or Ruckus clone. ~ Junior |
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Post by jrsride2002 on Mar 30, 2018 20:16:28 GMT -6
I'm 100% on board with NGK.
And that factory flasher? I'll take your graphically awesome advice, and bottle rocket them, together, as one unit.
I have a full set of LEDs laying around, from the mentioned dirt bike. The electric relay was lost in a wreck. But the rest is still available. Lighting will be, more or less, free as I'll be salvaging them from the bike. It's taping into the wiring harness, that'll be the fun challenges. And if it's free, it's for me...
~ Junior
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